Therion Squonker DNA75C
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Huge disclaimer: I am no expert on calculating for regulated mods, but the answer to that question will largely depend on you. Yes and no depending, so what's your intended/anticipated resistance and wattage?
No idea yet as I'm new to regulated mods but figuring .2-.4ohms.. no idea of the wattage. Currently using a reo mech at .5-.7ohms with just the single 18650 bat.
So obviously the higher the ohms and lower the wattage the easier it is on the battery correct?
So don't use a 20amp battery with a .2ish ohm coil at 75watts?
Generally speaking I wouldn't be too concerned about going for the VTC6 based on how you usually vape on the Reo. The added mAh won't hurt.
Just be aware you'll want to experiment a little to find the best ohm range for the batteries you do choose. Steam Engine will help get you within tweaking range pretty quick (only DNA75 right now, no C presets. You can edit with known values) - look for the sweet spot resistance and then build to your taste as you go. I run 25 and 30 amp batteries, so I shot for the 0.35-0.4 range suggested in the S.E. and found I got basically peak battery performance while vaping at my preferred wattage.
Anecdotally, your mech experience should translate perfectly here. Build for your taste at 4 volts and you're a winner.
Editing to add: higher resistance coils will improve battery life assuming you don't bump the settings to compensate. Pushing an i.e.1.8ohm coil to 75w (god help you) will drain things quick as well.
Just be aware you'll want to experiment a little to find the best ohm range for the batteries you do choose. Steam Engine will help get you within tweaking range pretty quick (only DNA75 right now, no C presets. You can edit with known values) - look for the sweet spot resistance and then build to your taste as you go. I run 25 and 30 amp batteries, so I shot for the 0.35-0.4 range suggested in the S.E. and found I got basically peak battery performance while vaping at my preferred wattage.
Anecdotally, your mech experience should translate perfectly here. Build for your taste at 4 volts and you're a winner.
Editing to add: higher resistance coils will improve battery life assuming you don't bump the settings to compensate. Pushing an i.e.1.8ohm coil to 75w (god help you) will drain things quick as well.
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I nabbed one this morning (silver/CF/pearl fish). Using the MAP code dropped my Therion BF to $105.95. I added a laser pointer (cats) and a Hadaly clone to the cart, too. Going to sit by my mailbox, now...
Re the battery requirements...
Depends on what wattage you want to run at....
According to the spec sheet running it flat out it can pull up to 30A
https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna75color.pdf
Depends on what wattage you want to run at....
According to the spec sheet running it flat out it can pull up to 30A
https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna75color.pdf
Where I've been vaping it's showing under 10amps.
Having an issue with one of my 2 That one. Tc is not working good.. on the other one I'm just doing wattage and it's rocking with kanthal a1. The other is using as 316l and the first coil was a 3 core fused clapton 28/36g. Was mostly working ok.. came out to around .4-.5 cold. Though I had a problem where sometimes it was hitting super week and it was showing like 6-8 watts at the tempt I had it set at.. think under 400f. I found I had to un screw the Entheon rda a turn and then back and it would go back to kicking.
Then I decided to remove that ss Clapton coil and just try and standered single 26g non touching coil 8 wrap around 3mm id.
That really don't want to hit st all.. either it's super mouth burning dry hit hot from cranking the tempt up to like near 500f and 40watts to get it to fire or super cold non firing if I try anything under 400f.
I guess I'm not understanding tempt control.
What coil and setting should I try with as 316l to see if the mod is working correctly??
Having an issue with one of my 2 That one. Tc is not working good.. on the other one I'm just doing wattage and it's rocking with kanthal a1. The other is using as 316l and the first coil was a 3 core fused clapton 28/36g. Was mostly working ok.. came out to around .4-.5 cold. Though I had a problem where sometimes it was hitting super week and it was showing like 6-8 watts at the tempt I had it set at.. think under 400f. I found I had to un screw the Entheon rda a turn and then back and it would go back to kicking.
Then I decided to remove that ss Clapton coil and just try and standered single 26g non touching coil 8 wrap around 3mm id.
That really don't want to hit st all.. either it's super mouth burning dry hit hot from cranking the tempt up to like near 500f and 40watts to get it to fire or super cold non firing if I try anything under 400f.
I guess I'm not understanding tempt control.
What coil and setting should I try with as 316l to see if the mod is working correctly??
SteamStack.
I think the simple spaced coil you are using will be fine.
There is a definite learning curve with TC.
You need to make sure all of the connections are tight, both the connections to the coil in the RDA and the 510 connection. The strength of the spring in the 510 can cause connection problems. ANY change in resistance caused by loose connections will throw TC off. (even a few hundredths of an ohm)
I tend to build the coil and give it a few gentle dry burns in wattage mode first.
Unscrew the atty a few turns
Then let it cool, wick it and juice it up. Let it sit for 15 minuets or so before putting the mod into TC mode and screwing the atty back on.
Then read and lock the cold resistance. This is the base level for the temp control, if the resistance is not correct none of the temp readings will be any where near right.
Make sure you are using the correct TCR for the wire type.
Hopefully it will work. At least for a while....
I only have a cheapo TC mod, but I found that it was a lot less consistent than using wattage mode or a mech. If I had to re wick or unscrew the atty I had to start the whole procedure all over again.
I played around for about 6 weeks with temp control. Then went back to a mech. For me much less hassle.
I think the simple spaced coil you are using will be fine.
There is a definite learning curve with TC.
You need to make sure all of the connections are tight, both the connections to the coil in the RDA and the 510 connection. The strength of the spring in the 510 can cause connection problems. ANY change in resistance caused by loose connections will throw TC off. (even a few hundredths of an ohm)
I tend to build the coil and give it a few gentle dry burns in wattage mode first.
Unscrew the atty a few turns
Then let it cool, wick it and juice it up. Let it sit for 15 minuets or so before putting the mod into TC mode and screwing the atty back on.
Then read and lock the cold resistance. This is the base level for the temp control, if the resistance is not correct none of the temp readings will be any where near right.
Make sure you are using the correct TCR for the wire type.
Hopefully it will work. At least for a while....
I only have a cheapo TC mod, but I found that it was a lot less consistent than using wattage mode or a mech. If I had to re wick or unscrew the atty I had to start the whole procedure all over again.
I played around for about 6 weeks with temp control. Then went back to a mech. For me much less hassle.
I hear ya there.. feel like I gota be a scientist to figure tc out.
Thanks for the advice.. I'll try that and play around some more.
I've had mine for a week. Love the new chip and the new bottle.
First coil is a SS fused clapton at .19 ohms. Works perfect in TC.
My first battery was giving me issues, low battery message with fresh charge. Switched it out (LG) for a Samsung and that cured that issue.
Only con so far is battery life. I charge my original once, maybe twice a day. This one I charge 4-5 times. I can charge it up, in a 20 drive to work, it's at less than 50% battery.
First coil is a SS fused clapton at .19 ohms. Works perfect in TC.
My first battery was giving me issues, low battery message with fresh charge. Switched it out (LG) for a Samsung and that cured that issue.
Only con so far is battery life. I charge my original once, maybe twice a day. This one I charge 4-5 times. I can charge it up, in a 20 drive to work, it's at less than 50% battery.
What wattage are you firing at? I found getting appropriate wattages for anything in the 0.2 range (usually ~60W) utterly devastated my battery life on the original BF, and that was in wattage mode, on non-SS wire.
I'm running 1.8 ohm single SS coil at 45 watts, 450degrees in TC mode. Battery life very poor. I'm working on getting higher ohm SS coils, hopefully that will help.
Other issue I am having is onboard charging. Because it's a single battery mod and battery is such a pain to remove, I have been
Trying to charge it onboard. Charge indicator is all over the place. I started charging it last night at 45% indicated. After two hours it still showed 45%. I unplugged it and cycled through the menu, then it showed 70%. Very strange
Other issue I am having is onboard charging. Because it's a single battery mod and battery is such a pain to remove, I have been
Trying to charge it onboard. Charge indicator is all over the place. I started charging it last night at 45% indicated. After two hours it still showed 45%. I unplugged it and cycled through the menu, then it showed 70%. Very strange
I made a 26g x2 / 36g ss316l 7 wrap Clapton coil on my Entheon rda. Came out to .27ohms.
Tuning it to around 27watts and 485f seems pretty good.
Though is it ok that it's only using like 3-2.6v? Is that putting a strain on the chip tuning that low of a voltage?
Tuning it to around 27watts and 485f seems pretty good.
Though is it ok that it's only using like 3-2.6v? Is that putting a strain on the chip tuning that low of a voltage?
You can overwork your battery in many ways, my friend. You're pushing a lot of watts through a highly resistant coil there and it will kill your battery dead as well. Higher resistance is not the answer.
I just got mine a couple of days ago. I have been having some leaking going on at the bottom of the 510 where the tube connects. Has anyone else had this issue or know of a way to fix it?
Ordered one from Elemental Vape along with a Dead Rabbit. USPS shows I get it Monday. Hope it lives up to all the good reviews I have seen on them.
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