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At 50% I usually swith them over (move left one on the right and right one on the left) just to keep the power drawing from them even and at about 25% I'll put in a new set
These regulated mods shut off at a decently high voltage, typically 3.2V or higher. You can run your battery down to 0% in the mod every time and not worry about damaging the battery. While you can possibly increase the life of the battery a bit by removing it at a higher voltage for recharging In my opinion you won't see any practical difference in the time before you have to replace those batteries. Unless you're running your batteries at or beyond their current rating and need to prevent the current draw from going too high just go ahead and run them down to 0%. They'll be fine.
No need to swap battery positions in a series box. The same current is drawn from each no matter where they are. One battery will always be slightly weaker than the other but that won't be caused or influenced by its position in the mod.
There is an argument for rotating the position of batteries in a dual parallel mod if there is a lot more resistance in the contacts or wiring of one of the positions versus the other. But, it's really not necessary to rotate then either. Any imbalance in the current draw from the paralleled batteries is "reset" when the batteries are recharged outside of the mod. If always recharging the batteries in the mod there could, maybe, be an argument for rotating the batteries to balance out the effect of the different contact/wiring difference. But that difference will be very tiny in my opinion, along with its effect on the batteries.
Bottom line....you don't need to rotate batteries in the mod. In a multi-bay charger with slightly different voltages for each bay then maybe. But the batteries still get "reset" when charged and the voltage difference between them never has a chance to grow. So, still no real need to rotate them.
No harm in charging early or rotating, but not necessary.
No need to swap battery positions in a series box. The same current is drawn from each no matter where they are. One battery will always be slightly weaker than the other but that won't be caused or influenced by its position in the mod.
There is an argument for rotating the position of batteries in a dual parallel mod if there is a lot more resistance in the contacts or wiring of one of the positions versus the other. But, it's really not necessary to rotate then either. Any imbalance in the current draw from the paralleled batteries is "reset" when the batteries are recharged outside of the mod. If always recharging the batteries in the mod there could, maybe, be an argument for rotating the batteries to balance out the effect of the different contact/wiring difference. But that difference will be very tiny in my opinion, along with its effect on the batteries.
Bottom line....you don't need to rotate batteries in the mod. In a multi-bay charger with slightly different voltages for each bay then maybe. But the batteries still get "reset" when charged and the voltage difference between them never has a chance to grow. So, still no real need to rotate them.
No harm in charging early or rotating, but not necessary.
Just curious here too...how can the current drawn from each be different in a series mod? How does rotating even things out? Genuinely curious.
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I would think not switching them would be better, in case one battery is still fully charged when you put it back on the charger you'd know instantly that something is wrong with your mod
I agree with this sentiment. In a series mod you actually don't want to switch your batteries, primarily because it serves no function.
That said, with my Sig150, I've found draining the batteries past 50% to be unfavorable, as it drops the battery voltage lower than 3.7V (although this varies, oddly enough) beyond 50%. I mean, there's no crime in draining it lower, but the one time I drained my Sig to "LOW BATTERY" warning the batts were at 2.8V. That's way too low for my comfort level, and I likely did some damage to my batteries (which are no longer in commission).
If you're around a charger, try and charge them at 50%.
Wow, that 2.8V is way below its spec for low voltage, 3.2V. I hope that the tolerances aren't that bad.
Were both batteries at 2.8V? If the combined voltage was 6.4V then the mod gave you the warning when it thought both were at 3.2V.
Just something I've always done with dual battery setups. I find it hard to believe that the draw is exactly the same from both of the batteries so I just flip them over at 50% as a peace of mind/OCD thing. Not saying I'm right just stating what I usually do with my batteries.
That's cool.
I can say with absolute certainty though that, by definition, the current through any number of series batteries is identical. No other place for the current to go.
One was 2.8 and the other was 2.9 (I've always noticed slight differences in the voltage, it usually corrects out after a few seconds on the charger). When I looked down and it at 2.8 I pulled it out of the charger and put it back in just to double-check. Wasn't even aware my charger could display digits that low.
But yeah, my guess is that the battery indicator is hecka unreliable, which I've actually noticed even pulling the batteries at 50%. Sometimes they're closer to 3.5, and other times they're closer to 3.7.. I've also seen the battery indicator do some funky stuff, like jump from 50% to 60%, which is one thing if it's doing it mid-fire (as it's calculating your voltage), but if it maintains the % that it jumps to..? Very spooky.
I still use my Sig150, it's one of the most reliable mods I own, but I am very wary of the battery indicator. My other box mods don't have screens, so I'm quite used to gauging "these batteries have been in for too long" at this point.
Yea, I'm always wary of the battery indicators. There are some great chips out there for "gas gauging" but they are best for constant current draw applications. Pulsing current, and the battery voltage swings that come with it, makes it tough to do their job. Or for the firmware to gauge true battery state of charge since the voltage doesn't settle for quite a while.
But low voltage cutoff is relatively easy to do. Frustrating that something like that is so unreliable in the sig...shouldn't be!
If I had more balls (and more batteries) I'd test this extensively, as I expect it's a situation present in most Sig devices.
Don't buy Vamped batteries. There is no 40A CDR battery on the market. Considering this is a random no-name China company, I'd be suspicious as hell that they developed some miracle cell capable of outperforming even Sony's highest-rated batteries. They may be referencing the pulse rating, but that's not relevant for our applications, and it's often used to mislead customers.
Those are likely LG HE2 rewraps. Don't push 'em past 20A.
FYI: These batteries are claiming 40A pulse, 20A CDR. VTC5's are rated for 60A pulse, and 30A (debatable) CDR.
I mostly use mechs aside from my trusty sig 150, with the mechs when i just dont get that nice warm juicy vape i like ill switch them out, with the sig i usaly just run it till the check batt comes up.
I agree. That Vamped cell came out to a 20A CDR in my testing. Same as the VTC5 (which was never a 30A cell and never should have been labeled as one).
I was just referring to what they claimed on their spec sheet, which like.. If you're gonna lie on a spec sheet.. Might as well make it match/outperform a Sony VTC5 lol..
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