Tinkerers :: Mod/Rebuild Fail/Success

[weisner]

The Igo w is essentially the same base as the L from what I can tell. THey added another post and put holes in them for easier building. Also, the cap seems to have a little more volume inside. I swapped the W cap onto my L and it seemed to hit harder?

I know in cars, longer intake runners create more air turbulence, resulting in a better dispersion of particulate matter (fuel) in the air. THink this has a similar effect when vaping? haha

The same principles shoulud apply I don't see any reason they shouldn't.

You should pick up a cheap mech to play with. Its a lot of fun.

I have considered it. At this point however I am going to hold off a bit longer. I have yet to see one that really does get my attention design wise that I can afford.

Thank you for the additional info on the IGO-W I was under the impression it was just another shape/diameter.

 

[davewuvswaffles]

Last night I got a little bored and decided to mod my sigelei #13a for a lower voltage drop and improved button performance.

Following Rader's Sigelei #8 Performance Guide and modding my button as he posted here, I lowered my voltage drop to around 0.15V on load and have made my button work flawlessly.

After getting the tinkering bug, I grabbed a propane torch and heat treated a steel drip tip and an Igo-L cap, both of which I don't really use much anymore.

Starting with the drip tip, I cooled it down after heating it by dropping it in water. I found that the colors came off very easily with some 1500 grit sandpaper and were very muted to begin with. I found that I was unable to achieve the colors I was aiming for consistently and grabbed my Igo-L cap determined to be more precise with my results.

By trying to evenly heat the cap and letting it air cool, I found that I was better able to achieve the colors I was aiming for and they seem to be a tad more permanent, even after trying to lightly sand the inside with 1500 grit sandpaper.

I am now thinking of color treating my Sigelei and Igo-W to either a purple or blue hue in the oven, though I may just try to reduce the outer diameter and polish it to a shine before I make any big jump like color treating it.

 

[weisner]

Last night I got a little bored and decided to mod my Sigelei #13a for a lower voltage drop and improved button performance.
......
I am now thinking of color treating my Sigelei and Igo-W to either a purple or blue hue in the oven, though I may just try to reduce the outer diameter and polish it to a shine before I make any big jump like color treating it.

Really nice post.
Are you trying to get that Stainless Steel coloring like you might see on a Harley Davidson chrome exhaust? If so that coloration comes from repeatedly being heated and cooled and occasionally misted due to humidity. I have always thought there was something unique and cool about that kind of bluing.

Thanks for posting your experience Mr. davewuvswaffles.

 

[onoh89]

Last night I got a little bored and decided to mod my Sigelei #13a for a lower voltage drop and improved button performance.

Following Rader's Sigelei #8 Performance Guide and modding my button as he posted here, I lowered my voltage drop to around 0.15V on load and have made my button work flawlessly.

After getting the tinkering bug, I grabbed a propane torch and heat treated a steel drip tip and an Igo-L cap, both of which I don't really use much anymore.

Starting with the drip tip, I cooled it down after heating it by dropping it in water. I found that the colors came off very easily with some 1500 grit sandpaper and were very muted to begin with. I found that I was unable to achieve the colors I was aiming for consistently and grabbed my Igo-L cap determined to be more precise with my results.

By trying to evenly heat the cap and letting it air cool, I found that I was better able to achieve the colors I was aiming for and they seem to be a tad more permanent, even after trying to lightly sand the inside with 1500 grit sandpaper.

I am now thinking of color treating my Sigelei and Igo-W to either a purple or blue hue in the oven, though I may just try to reduce the outer diameter and polish it to a shine before I make any big jump like color treating it.

any pics of this?

 

[weisner]

I know this has been done before, however I am getting outrageously long use and great performance from this build. Over a week so far without needing a replacement wick. I have been vaping 100% VG home brewed DIY and am getting very little build up on the coils. The trick with cotton is simple, keep it wet.

The bare coil

The 30GA and the machine screw used to make a nice coil 2.5mm

What my Tesla mod seems to think of the coil

Inserting the trimmed cotton wick

Looping the wick ends into the base


So far this is the best dripper build I have been able to build and reproduce.

 

[super_X_drifter]

I know this has been done before, however I am getting outrageously long use and great performance from this build. Over a week so far without needing a replacement wick. I have been vaping 100% VG home brewed DIY and am getting very little build up on the coils. The trick with cotton is simple, keep it wet.

The bare coil
View attachment 257670
The 30GA and the machine screw used to make a nice coil 2.5mm
View attachment 257671
What my Tesla mod seems to think of the coil
View attachment 257672
Inserting the trimmed cotton wick
View attachment 257673
Looping the wick ends into the base
View attachment 257674

So far this is the best dripper build I have been able to build and reproduce.

Sweet bro. Looks very much like mine except I run shorter wick tails and touching wraps

 

[weisner]

Sweet bro. Looks very much like mine except I run shorter wick tails and touching wraps

Very much so, I have been following the micro coil thread that you are very active on and drew some inspiration from those conversations. However when I do a micro coil it runs a bit warm for my taste. I run this between 8 and 9.5 WATTS approximately 4 -5.5 volts.

 

[Lessifer]

Rocket RBA(Kayfun/Russion clone)

28g K micro coil, 1/16" ID, ~1ohm at 9 wraps, cotton ball wick. This was a pretty easy build, it almost seems made for a micro coil. V/F/TH are pretty phenomenal for a very cheap clone. The Rocket itself has some issues with leaking, though that's probably user error, and not being able to use your own drip tip is a drag, but all in all it's a winner in my book. Of course it's all up to your build, but with a good wick/coil I'd say it's on par with a well built RDA, with the added bonus of having a tank attached.

 

[weisner]

So far liking the mod, it will need some hand deburring and maybe some polishing. But overall the adjustable air flow and the uniquely slotted posts on the build deck make it a winner.


Setting up a dual coil from a single wire due to the unique slotted posts in the Trident.


Can't run it on the Tesla, but it makes a good build tool.. .5 Ohm

 

[weisner]

How you place your wicks and what you use for wicking makes a huge difference in any build. (Cotton)




Trident riding atop my K100 (first mechanical mod).

 

[weisner]

I am happy to report, this build makes vapor that may put some cigars in a state of jealousy. WOOOTTT!!!!

Although not a micro coil in the sense that the coils are apart, the ID of the coils is approximately 1/16 inch.

Maybe on the next build I'll actually go ahead and build micro coils.

 

[weisner]

Hey all, it's been a while since I posted anything. Been kinda busy...
I thought it might be helpful to many people just starting out if they could see the tools used to do quality builds consistently.

** the mandrel measures 1.5mm, 2mm, 3mm, 4mm and 5mm.

 

[MrVapaar]

Weisner, where did you get the mandrel?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[weisner]

Sorry for the delay in response, I have been offline for a while. I purchased it at Michael's Craft store. It is in the beading tools section.

Weisner, where did you get the mandrel?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[weisner]

I took an interest in building my own mod and decided it should be a squonker with space for a DNA mod to be added at a later time.

I used light wook that you can purchase in small quantities at hobby shops Birch or some other light and relatively durable will do. I used Cool Aid for wood stain Grape and Cherry. I purchased some of my electronic hardware from MarVac and boggermods.com for the specialty items like the bottle and 510 connector with catch pan.

This will be a pictoral mostly. I'll be available to answer questions if there happen to be any.

Well here goes...

Building the frame...

sizing

 

[weisner]

Sanding it and shaping it.



Colored off camera...



Coated with a light mist of clear coat to help preserve and protect it without stopping the natural wear patters from appearing on it.

 

[weisner]

The color is on it and it is now dry.



More to come...

 

[weisner]

More photos with better lighting etc.



more still ....

 

[weisner]

Finally get to mount electrics and 510 so that I can test out the squonk gear!! [excited about the prospect, my wife is not... lol]



Testing with a cartomizer mini tank 14 mm the cup is 14.6 mm ID so I'll be on the hunt for an RBDA with a hollow positive post ASAP.



Still yet more to come...

 

[weisner]

I found the mini scar to have the required center post hollow and two holes in the post in the build platform the lower is being used for e-juice to pass with the upper being used as a wire trap. This thing is sweet!

Googly eyes added by friends, left on seems to be a nice touch for something that should be fun.


Yes the deck is tiny, however it is really quite easy to build on.

Until I decide to add the DNA chip in that third slot and cut button and screen holes on the side of the box this will be my last post regarding the build of this box.

Hope you enjoyed the trip.