Titanium grade 1 is here to stay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (for me at least)

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UnclePsyko

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Well, I'm not gonna be the first... :D
I am going to get my hands on the Ti you recommended though, I'm really interested in how it will perform in the Reo and the Billow.
The only issue I see is the low res compared to Kanthal... I'm not a deep subber so there is a little concern about how big the coils need to be to keep it in the .5 - .8 range that I'm a sucker for in Kanthal. Anything lower and the subtle flavors in my juices start to suffer.

Unless a Ti/Rayon combo can go deeper in the sub-ohm and still deliver the flavor quality... Gotta get experimenting I suppose!
 

invisiblehand13

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Well, I'm not gonna be the first... :D
I am going to get my hands on the Ti you recommended though, I'm really interested in how it will perform in the Reo and the Billow.
The only issue I see is the low res compared to Kanthal... I'm not a deep subber so there is a little concern about how big the coils need to be to keep it in the .5 - .8 range that I'm a sucker for in Kanthal. Anything lower and the subtle flavors in my juices start to suffer.

Unless a Ti/Rayon combo can go deeper in the sub-ohm and still deliver the flavor quality... Gotta get experimenting I suppose!

Well...I did a 4 wrap on a 2mm at .17 so a little lower than kanthal but kinda close to nichrome...I love it and if you are building on a TC device it is AWESOME!!!!
 

Croak

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Right behind you...
Uncle P, forget about ohms and the resistance you like with Kanthal. If you're rocking TC (and that's really the only reason to run Ni or Ti over Kanthal), you find the temperature that gives you the flavor and let the DNA40 do its magic keeping it there.

Sure, you're super sub-ohm by default using nickel or titanium, but you're not sub-ohming just for power's sake, it's just a necessity to use that low-resistance wire to get a reliable temp reading the DNA40 can work with.
 

invisiblehand13

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Move my toppers around on to many devices for this to be of any use to me.
Not planning on reducing flavors I swap out or devices I enjoy using.

Sounds like Japanese Cotton all over again.

Ti has been used on MANY devices that are not TC with no issues what so ever, if you have ever used nichrome 80 it is pretty comparable IMO
 

invisiblehand13

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Uncle P, forget about ohms and the resistance you like with Kanthal. If you're rocking TC (and that's really the only reason to run Ni or Ti over Kanthal), you find the temperature that gives you the flavor and let the DNA40 do its magic keeping it there.

Sure, you're super sub-ohm by default using nickel or titanium, but you're not sub-ohming just for power's sake, it's just a necessity to use that low-resistance wire to get a reliable temp reading the DNA40 can work with.

I wouldn't NECESSARILY say that Ti can ONLY be rocked on TC device's a few more wraps can get you to a mech with no issues and ALOT of people use Ti without a DNA40 but it is AMAZING on TC device's to give you a much better option over crappy nickel wire which is just annoying to work with IMO, finicky crap is not my favorite cup o tea
 

UnclePsyko

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Well...I did a 4 wrap on a 2mm at .17 so a little lower than kanthal but kinda close to nichrome...I love it and if you are building on a TC device it is AWESOME!!!!

Uncle P, forget about ohms and the resistance you like with Kanthal. If you're rocking TC (and that's really the only reason to run Ni or Ti over Kanthal), you find the temperature that gives you the flavor and let the DNA40 do its magic keeping it there.

Sure, you're super sub-ohm by default using nickel or titanium, but you're not sub-ohming just for power's sake, it's just a necessity to use that low-resistance wire to get a reliable temp reading the DNA40 can work with.
Ah... well never-mind then... I don't own a TC device, only a Reo-RM2 with a FUHattan-Billow as my back-up.
I was under the impression that there was a distinct flavor difference in Ti over Kanthal, according to a Ti thread I've been lurking.
If there is no benefit in a mech, well I guess I have no reason to abandon what I'm already familiar with.
I will however give my Step-Son this very interesting information being he does use a TC device... sounds like he's the one to benefit from it, so I'll still get the wire.

Thanks Guys! Very informative to say the least! :toast:
 

invisiblehand13

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Ah... well never-mind then... I don't own a TC device, only a Reo-RM2 with a FUHattan-Billow as my back-up.
I was under the impression that there was a distinct flavor difference in Ti over Kanthal, according to a Ti thread I've been lurking.
If there is no benefit in a mech, well I guess I have no reason to abandon what I'm already familiar with.
I will however give my Step-Son this very interesting information being he does use a TC device... sounds like he's the one to benefit from it, so I'll still get the wire.

Thanks Guys! Very informative to say the least! :toast:

You CAN still use it BUT a few more wraps are needed and the FLAVOR is amazing!!!
 

crxess

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Ti has been used on MANY devices that are not TC with no issues what so ever, if you have ever used nichrome 80 it is pretty comparable IMO

Thanks for the heads up on useability. May do some experimenting in the near future.

Japanese Cotton? Nothing wrong. Just not the only solution, like the DNA40 isn't for everyone. :)
 

DejayRezme

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    Well, this one caught my attention early on... a Ti-Nickel alloy wire, med-grade... Don't know squat about it though.
    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...pd9XOUzjD8SWRfP2g&sig2=vegFGRxOQ0eZIRN6IYghCQ
    Supra Alloy was another I checked but... I really don't know for sure what I'm supposed to be looking for.
    Titanium Bar Stock ? Titanium Rod, Titanium Wire, Gr 1 ? 4, 7, 11, 6AL-4V ELI ? Supra Alloys
    If you know, I'd be interested to hear for sure!

    Ti-Nickel titanium alloy wire will not work for temperature sensing. Only pure titanium. Grade 1 to 4 is "pure" titanium. Afaik grade 1 is the purest and softest (which you want because titanium is very elastic and tough). Set temperature to about 75% of what you'd set for nickel.

    A note about titanium dioxide nano particles: They have been shown to cause lung problems in rats. It's classified as possibly carcinogenic for inhalation but personally I'm not really worried. First you probably need a lot of particles and most likely these nano particles are no more of a problem than nano particles from kanthal etc. Any dust in your lungs is bad. Titanium dioxide itself is save for ingestion and used as food coloring (e.g. bright white of toothpaste).
     

    caferacer

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    P.S.-what is wrong with ... crap??? I love my japenese cotton regardless of what device I am usinG

    Please refrain from using that word. There was a time in this country when that word was used as a perjorative and many Japanese Americans (myself included) find it offensive. Thanks.
     

    invisiblehand13

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    Please refrain from using that word. There was a time in this country when that word was used as a perjorative and many Japanese Americans (myself included) find it offensive. Thanks.

    Sorry didn't realize pearl harbor happened yesterday...feel free to tell me that a reference to a product has ANYTHING to do with your heritage lol:confused::blink:
     

    Croak

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    Right behind you...
    Sorry didn't realize pearl harbor happened yesterday...feel free to tell me that a reference to a product has ANYTHING to do with your heritage lol:confused::blink:

    Dude, I'm not what you'd call politically correct, I'm white, live in the South, over 50, voted for the guys that didn't win in the last two Presidential elections and I'm a Marine.

    They're words you shouldn't just throw around unless you expect a reaction.

    Now, lets talk about titanium!
     
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    invisiblehand13

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    Sorry didn't realize pearl harbor happened yesterday...feel free to tell me that a reference to a product has ANYTHING to do with your heritage lol:confused::blink:

    P.S.- Did NOT mean either of theses things to be OFFENSIVE to anybody of ANY descent
     
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    invisiblehand13

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    Dude, I'm not what you'd call politically correct, I'm white, live in the South, over 50, voted for the guys that didn't win in the last two Presidential elections and I'm a Marine.

    And even I'm smart enough to realize that "..." has all the negative weight that the "......", or ...., or ...., or ...... or ......... or ..... or ....... or .... or Cracker has. They're words you shouldn't just throw around unless you expect a reaction.

    Now, lets talk about titanium!

    Well then I am what I guess you could call geographically ignorant because I have said that phrase since my first honda and never offended anybody until now, so if I offended that much I apologize, carry on peeps....
     

    puffon

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    Okay so after throwing all my nickel in the trash where it belongs I needed a GOOD replacement for my DNA40 device's both authentic and cloned (hehehe...yes, there are cloned ones that work VERY good now) and heard about titanium...so, I needed to know what kind of titanium and it was a toss up between grade 1 and grade 2 and I went with grade 1...the reason for grade 1 is how much longer it last and keeps it's original structure in comparison to grade 2 plus grade 1 is more pure than grade 2 anyways so that's why it was my test subject. My next concern was how much resistance it was going to have especially since the only reliable sources I could find at the time had 24 gauge as the smallest available size, my experience with nickel made me believe this would make things complicated but it did NOT at all!!!!!!! I made a 4 wrap around a 2mm bit for my subtank mini and it came out to a .17 ohm flavor BEAST in my subtank mini and I am LOVING it, then I needed to try a dripper so I used a dual coil 5 wrap around a 2mm bit to make a .1 ohm coil and also loving that as well. These are both standard coils and I have not tried a micro coil yet but it is coming...I am just going to enjoy these first and just wanted to let everyone know MY results with this stuff and it is AMAZING compared to nickel...oh and temp settings are a LITTLE different as I set my subtank mini to 270 F and my dripper to 300 F and that is how it has been working best for me...here are some pics...View attachment 406456View attachment 406457View attachment 406458

    OK...You can never have too much wire, so I ordered a roll.

    Looks like you wrap these spaced ?
    Have you tried contact/dry burn/squeeze ?
     

    caferacer

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    Sorry didn't realize pearl harbor happened yesterday...feel free to tell me that a reference to a product has ANYTHING to do with your heritage lol:confused::blink:

    Sadly, your response reveals more about your character than your initial use of the word.

    I've said my peace. Carry on.


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