To kick or not to kick?

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bluesbishop

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Hey everyone!!

Kick2 question: I have the Simplicity Integrated Kiklet with my Simplicity 18500. Now my friend Cucco, that I like to call the Super T queen ( I mean does anyone have more than her???? LOL) has a kick2...but has never used it and prefers unregulated. In her opinion it is just one more piece added to go wrong in a mech mod. I know the "advantages" many like of regulated...consistent voltage, etc...but any other reason??

Currently I'm using the KFL + Ver 2 on her at .61 ohms...and it all things awesome!! nice throat hit, warm vape, lots of clouds..perfection! when I plug in the data into a ohms calculator this is what I get: 3.7 volts with .61 ohms = 22.44 watts!! I'm currently using the AW IMR 18490 battery.

The Kick2 has a max output of 15 watts...so wouldn't using a kick defeat the purpose of sub-ohm rba?? ( well not crazy sub ohm like some I've seen!!) vaping??

Thanks for your input!!

Ken
 

State O' Flux

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Plugging in 3.7 volts is coming at it from the wrong direction, bishop. With a Kick 2, the only value you have immediate control over is wattage, and with low resistance... just like an unregulated mech mod, the only value of any importance, as far as OL parity is concerned, is amperage.

Input the recommended minimum resistance of 0.5Ω and peak wattage output into an OL calculator... and you're 0.5 amps shy of peak value. Repeat with resistance and amperage (less a 10% safety margin)... it all comes out about the same, and demonstrates small margins of safety Evolv designed in.
 

Cucco

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Hey everyone!!

Kick2 question: I have the Simplicity Integrated Kiklet with my Simplicity 18500. Now my friend Cucco, that I like to call the Super T queen ( I mean does anyone have more than her???? LOL) has a kick2...but has never used it and prefers unregulated. In her opinion it is just one more piece added to go wrong in a mech mod. I know the "advantages" many like of regulated...consistent voltage, etc...but any other reason??

Currently I'm using the KFL + Ver 2 on her at .61 ohms...and it all things awesome!! nice throat hit, warm vape, lots of clouds..perfection! when I plug in the data into a ohms calculator this is what I get: 3.7 volts with .61 ohms = 22.44 watts!! I'm currently using the AW IMR 18490 battery.

The Kick2 has a max output of 15 watts...so wouldn't using a kick defeat the purpose of sub-ohm RBA?? ( well not crazy sub ohm like some I've seen!!) vaping??

Thanks for your input!!

Ken

There are people with more Super-T gear than me. :)
 

bluesbishop

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Plugging in 3.7 volts is coming at it from the wrong direction, bishop. With a Kick 2, the only value you have immediate control over is wattage, and with low resistance... just like an unregulated mech mod, the only value of any importance, as far as OL parity is concerned, is amperage.

Input the recommended minimum resistance of 0.5Ω and peak wattage output into an OL calculator... and you're 0.5 amps shy of peak value. Repeat with resistance and amperage (less a 10% safety margin)... it all comes out about the same, and demonstrates small margins of safety Evolv designed in.


Hmm...ok confused on this. how would I know my peak wattage output on a unregulated mod?? wouldn't I determine my wattage based upon my voltage and resistance of my coil??now being unregulated, as voltage drops, so does my wattage correct? the only constant is my resistance of my coil, correct?
 

State O' Flux

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Hmm...ok confused on this. how would I know my peak wattage output on a unregulated mod?? wouldn't I determine my wattage based upon my voltage and resistance of my coil??now being unregulated, as voltage drops, so does my wattage correct? the only constant is my resistance of my coil, correct?
I thought we were talking about using a Kick 2... at least that's the way I read your first post. If not using a Kick, then resistance / amperage parity are all that matter... and to be honest, I don't even worry about wattage. ;-)
 

CenTexVpr

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Hey everyone!!

Kick2 question: I have the Simplicity Integrated Kiklet with my Simplicity 18500. Now my friend Cucco, that I like to call the Super T queen ( I mean does anyone have more than her???? LOL) has a kick2...but has never used it and prefers unregulated. In her opinion it is just one more piece added to go wrong in a mech mod. I know the "advantages" many like of regulated...consistent voltage, etc...but any other reason??

Currently I'm using the KFL + Ver 2 on her at .61 ohms...and it all things awesome!! nice throat hit, warm vape, lots of clouds..perfection! when I plug in the data into a ohms calculator this is what I get: 3.7 volts with .61 ohms = 22.44 watts!! I'm currently using the AW IMR 18490 battery.

The Kick2 has a max output of 15 watts...so wouldn't using a kick defeat the purpose of sub-ohm RBA?? ( well not crazy sub ohm like some I've seen!!) vaping??

Thanks for your input!!

Ken

I use my simplicity 18650 (w/18500 batts & a kick), & my ELA with kicks. I am able to easily dial in the sweet spot for different e-liquids without having to wrerap uhhh... make that re-wrap the coil. I had tried a certain flavor kicked & then tried the same flavor with a freshly charged 18650 batt. Without the kick it quickly gave the flavor a burnt taste. I have noticed that before with unkicked mods. It starts off hot but after the batts have dropped some it was about right. With the kick vape is the same throughout the batt. life. Just my:2c:
 

bluesbishop

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I thought we were talking about using a Kick 2... at least that's the way I read your first post. If not using a Kick, then resistance / amperage parity are all that matter... and to be honest, I don't even worry about wattage. ;-)

State of flux...Sorry for confusion!! currently I am running a unregulated mod...running a KFL+ v2 at .61 ohms and loving it...according to ohms calc that gives me a output of about 22w. My question is why kick?? I have the Simplicity Integrated Kiklet with my Simplicity 18500, so I have the potential to be able to use my mod with a kick, but was curious if there are any advantages than simply running it the way I am? to me, it would seem my output would be less using the kick2 than unregulated with sub ohms
 

bluesbishop

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I use my simplicity 18650 (w/18500 batts & a kick), & my ELA with kicks. I am able to easily dial in the sweet spot for different e-liquids without having to wrerap uhhh... make that re-wrap the coil. I had tried a certain flavor kicked & then tried the same flavor with a freshly charged 18650 batt. Without the kick it quickly gave the flavor a burnt taste. I have noticed that before with unkicked mods. It starts off hot but after the batts have dropped some it was about right. With the kick vape is the same throughout the batt. life. Just my:2c:

I appreciate your feedback!!
 

Riverboat

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I appreciate your feedback!!

I love Kicking my ELA set @12-13watts....Of course I use a higher ohm atomizer...2.5-3.0 ohms = less amp draw = longer battery life...Running a Kick2 is all about a consistent vape... From the 1st hit through the last hit, remains the same power output (wattage).
 

State O' Flux

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State of flux...Sorry for confusion!! My question is why kick??
No worries bishop.

Any number of reasons, real or imagined, for wanting a Kick... I suppose. Considering the original intent was to place a hidden VW control into the "style" of a mech mod... stylishness itself may very well be the most popular - but perhaps not always disclosed - reason. ;-)
 

Draconian

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Kicks are great, long as you don't need to go over 15 watts (kick 2).
Advantage - as the battery dies - you still get the same vape. Without a kick - as the battery dies - so does your vape.
Advantage - protection - won't fire on a short. Does not protect you from reversing batteries and if you do, you will need a new kick.
Advantage - it'll stop firing the mod when the battery needs to be charged.

Disadvantage - can't go too low with resistance - about .5 ohms or so. .5 ohms on a fully charged battery (4.2V) is 35watts - kick won't do for you if you need that kind of power.
Disadvantage - size. Is it a mod, or a baseball bat?

Overall - I love using a kick unless it can't provide the power I need (which is very rare as I microcoil - 10/12 watts is all I ever really need and I blow clouds). Most of the time I have a kick in my ELA/flip/nemesis (mods that actually support 18650 kicked).
 

bluesbishop

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Overall - I love using a kick unless it can't provide the power I need (which is very rare as I microcoil - 10/12 watts is all I ever really need and I blow clouds). Most of the time I have a kick in my ELA/flip/nemesis (mods that actually support 18650 kicked).

I really appreciate your feedback. I'm new to mech mods and RBA's...so I'm learning what will be that sweet spot...

and that may be the disadvantage of unregulated..hard to judge what the sweet spot will be, as watts will drop as battery starts to discharge...so while I'm getting 22w on a .61ohm coil with a fresh battery..that changes as I continue to vape....and at some point its the perfect vape..somewhere between fresh atty and battery and before discharged battery....

Maybe I will try a kick to see....easier to dial in, then to rebuilding a bunch of different coils at different resistance to see how different wattage vapes...
 

snork

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I've tried quite a few times to be a regulated guy but it never sticks.
Over time I learned how to self-regulate. Build a coil that does X and life is good.
Interestingly, recently I got a Xtar VP1 charger which tells you what the voltage is of the used battery when you put it on to charge. I *never ever* put a battery on it that I discharged below 3.6 volts, and usually 3.67 is the point at which my soul tells me it's time.
 

anavidfan

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I used to use a Kicked Saber Touch and found it is great for when I used a cartomizer in a tank. For carto use I found I got the most consistent performance. It was amazing , Id set the wattage at 8 ish, and get perfect performance from start of battery life to the end. When I started using rebuildable atties, I found I did not need to kick. I just make my builds at 1.06 ish and I get the same experience, so I figured why add one more thing that can go wrong? I dont have to worry about accidentally putting the kick in backwards or if by any chance I get a short on my attie, I dont have to worry about "killing" the kick.
 

Draconian

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Guess it depends on how you vape and what you are looking for. Are you looking for peak vape - and having to change batteries - or, damn good vape and vape until the battery says it's done?
Everyone has what they want out of vaping. Some - start with the little e-cigs and never move on, and they are happy. Others, move to rebuild-able attys and such, and are always looking for the "perfect" vape (which I have never found - and I probably have more vape gear than Lorrie!) Hell, one of my co-workers - I got him a Nemesis clone and a nautilus - and he was into rebuilding and such - and now that's all he uses (because it's a hell of a vape)
I just bought a mod that will do almost 80 watts - I'll never need it - I rarely go over 15 and I blow happy clouds (not crazy clouds - why would I need to?). I can TASTE my juice. Juice flavor changes with power - ALL juices have a sweet spot - and I can tell you that their sweet spot is NOT 30 watts (with the exception of some properly built and fed RDA). IMO, most juices have a sweet spot of 8 to 12 watts - that's it - that is where they have FLAVOR.
I used to chase wattage - more power - more...whatever - genesis atomizer, cable wick, etc - and it is still terrific for some juices (Bobbas Bounty!) - but, most, especially fruit or light flavors - microcoil on cotton is amazing - and that's low wattage stuff.
THAT ^^^ is basically Lorrie's opinion when we discuss! shes like..why?! why add something into the mix? one more than that can fail? she likes her atties around .6 ohm s ( thats what I've been vaping as well) in her KFL's ..and if performance drops...time to change batteries!
 
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