Too much power for the Reo?

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D4rk50ul

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I was playing Frankenstein and dual coiled my hornet. It ohms out at 0.6 total and is a great vape but the heat is transferring to the body of the grand. How unsafe is this?

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Justice

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I fed the wire through the positive post and wrapped them off 1 piece of kanthal, terminated them separately in the negative. Insulator seems ok so far on the hornet but the thing gets super hot. Great vape though :D

I'm worried I might melt the Reo's top seal or the firing pin.

The Era would likely burn its seal first. The Reo is easier to get parts for though.
 

D4rk50ul

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Are you sure the heat transfer to the body is not from your hand .... because you can't put it down ?? :D

Very possible. I run sub 1ohm coils all the time the dual seemed to produce so much more heat. Either way I'm playing it safe and sticking to singles.
 

D4rk50ul

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I too have had an ERA positive insulator bubble up.

The heat you are feeeling in your REO might be coming from batteries. Check them out to see. Lithium type batteries do heat up with use and even more so with high drain.

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I checked that first it was nice and cool it had to be heat transferred from the hornet casing. Either way not worth a rebuild kit or dead rba.
 

D4rk50ul

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OK new issue. Seems like I'm melting buttons on the Grand. I have cleaned the contact and applied noalox but the contact is getting very hot (I assume) and has melted down the side it makes contact with. Anyone else experienced this problem with 28awg kanthal? If I use 30awg+ it seems to be ok but the vape just isn't as good.
 

D4rk50ul

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It's not the guageofwire but you must have a short and if your melting buttons something must be wrong with your spring ie it's been shorted and stretched out or it's too compressed from you battery. What battery are you using ?

It's not a short in the coil, and I have tried multiple batteries usually I use the AW IMR 18650. I am starting to think it's the noalox forming a bead of conductivity that generates too much heat.

I don't know if I'm taxing the batteries too much or if the thin metal positive bridge could be the issue, im still leaning towards noalox.

Edit: More info. I run between 0.8ohm-1.3ohm coils out of 28awg. I form them off the atomizer and adjust before inserting wick to ensure that they are perfect. All my batteries and coils get tested before use and a short would be immediately spotted. Very frustrating I've ordered some buttons and a rebuild kit just to have on hand but I need to get this sorted out.
 
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nerak

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It's not a short in the coil, and I have tried multiple batteries usually I use the AW IMR 18650. I am starting to think it's the noalox forming a bead of conductivity that generates too much heat.

I don't know if I'm taxing the batteries too much or if the thin metal positive bridge could be the issue, im still leaning towards noalox.

Edit: More info. I run between 0.8ohm-1.3ohm coils out of 28awg. I form them off the atomizer and adjust before inserting wick to ensure that they are perfect. All my batteries and coils get tested before use and a short would be immediately spotted. Very frustrating I've ordered some buttons and a rebuild kit just to have on hand but I need to get this sorted out.

Testing coils and batteries is good, BUT you are having a short in your REO and your spring is not collapsing! This is a very dangerous situation.

Noalox is not the cause. Yes, it helps conduct the current, but does not increase the voltage.

Your spring should collapse if enough heat is being generated to melt your button. Did you buy your REO new? Have you had a short and just pulled the spring back up so you can continue using it?

You are in danger of the batteries getting too hot and exploding.

You must find the cause of the short.

My opinion is you should PM Robert and get his opinion before using it again.
 
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