Tool for thin wires

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Myk

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It seems that my tanks (prime clones) don't handle tc very well if the ohms are too low...?
I can't see a reason for that, but that's what I experience.
Right now I am just able to make it work, and I was just wondering if there was a method or a tool that would make it easier, and hopefully torching the wire is the way.
I have got some ss430, 28 G, and will try that tomorrow in combination with the torching.
:) Peter

Slick aren't I?:lol:
I've had a complete fail on trying to make a ProTank do TC. I guess the grommet press fit wasn't a good enough connection.
I don't know why anything with a real build deck would have a problem with a basic coil. Other than the ProTank try I've only failed with duals and claptons in TC
 
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BrotherBob

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Pgltz

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What kind of resistance are you trying for? TC works best with SS316L at .5 ohm and below. It also works better if the coil is spaced.

A lot of TC mods will only do TC in 1 ohm and below. I don't think you are likely to be very happy with the TC at high ohms
I just read in the manual for the prime, it says that the prime doesn't handle tc properly at 0.5 ohm and below... I don't imagine that a clone would do it better
 
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Pgltz

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Slick aren't I?:lol:
I've had a complete fail on trying to make a ProTank do TC. I guess the grommet press fit wasn't a good enough connection.
I don't know why anything with a real build deck would have a problem with a basic coil. Other than the ProTank try I've only failed with duals and claptons in TC
I am danish, I don't understand the expression: "slick aren't I"
Well, the deck itself might be simple but I won't call the whole tank simple...
prime_exploded_view.jpg

Svoemesto says in the Prime manual that it's not good for tc at 0.5 ohm and below
 
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stylemessiah

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Firmware for TC has improved since the early days, especially for SS, even as late as a year ago (or possibly less) people in the Evolv (DNA) forums were reporting issues with SS TC on low ohm builds, but Evolv has since updated the firmware and mostly the issue has gone bye byes. On mods other than the DNA devices, factor in you also need the correct TCR set for SS wire, refer to your mod makers info on what they recommend, some will set it correctly in the factory, some people will still find they need to adjust it. And not all mod makers agree opn a SS TCR preset value....though i think its prolly closer across the board than it used to be. for me its 0.00092 (SS316L), suggested as a general value and then tested on my mods by DJLSB (youtube reviewer)

http://www.djlsbvapes.com/different-wires/

I have both DNA and non-DNA devices, due to the way DNA devices work, the TCR value doesnt need to be set, on all other devices, its generally editable...certainly more than it used to be, once upon a time you had to hunt for a device with editable TCR....

But, anyways, back tot he main point, i never had an issue even before the DNA update...why? because i always build .0.5+ (usually around 0.6, just by habit of number of wraps - i like 7/8 of 26GA on 3mm). During the time of early SS use, and especially on Evolv, anyone who was having issues with SS TC who i, or others, suggested build at 0.5 or above noticed the issue went away...why? because its simply giving the mod more measurable TCR to measure, and SS316 has a very low TCR value. Build to the requirements/limits of the wire, and all problems go bye byes.

If you want to try -0.5 builds, by all means try them, theres certainly not a one size fits all rule that it will work on every mod, because every mod is different, but if you want a far better and more stable TC experience, 0.5+

Ive personally only had 1 tank in 3 years (a Geekvape Griffin 25) that was not happy to do reliable tc, my 3 year old Lemo 2's are as stable as can be, albeit as mentioned running 0.5ohm coils

Its why you'll never find a single post from me in over 2 years complaining about a dissapointing TC experience
 
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Myk

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I am danish, I don't understand the expression: "slick aren't I"

I dug your quote out of my quote.

Well, the deck itself might be simple but I won't call the whole tank simple...

I was only talking about the screwed contact of the coil so any changes in resistance are really from the coil.
 

Pgltz

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Firmware for TC has improved since the early days, especially for SS, even as late as a year ago (or possibly less) people in the Evolv (DNA) forums were reporting issues with SS TC on low ohm builds, but Evolv has since updated the firmware and mostly the issue has gone bye byes. On mods other than the DNA devices, factor in you also need the correct TCR set for SS wire, refer to your mod makers info on what they recommend, some will set it correctly in the factory, some people will still find they need to adjust it. And not all mod makers agree opn a SS TCR preset value....though i think its prolly closer across the board than it used to be. for me its 0.00092 (SS316L), suggested as a general value and then tested on my mods by DJLSB (youtube reviewer)

http://www.djlsbvapes.com/different-wires/

I have both DNA and non-DNA devices, due to the way DNA devices work, the TCR value doesnt need to be set, on all other devices, its generally editable...certainly more than it used to be, once upon a time you had to hunt for a device with editable TCR....

But, anyways, back tot he main point, i never had an issue even before the DNA update...why? because i always build .0.5+ (usually around 0.6, just by habit of number of wraps - i like 7/8 of 26GA on 3mm). During the time of early SS use, and especially on Evolv, anyone who was having issues with SS TC who i, or others, suggested build at 0.5 or above noticed the issue went away...why? because its simply giving the mod more measurable TCR to measure, and SS316 has a very low TCR value. Build to the requirements/limits of the wire, and all problems go bye byes.

If you want to try -0.5 builds, by all means try them, theres certainly not a one size fits all rule that it will work on every mod, because every mod is different, but if you want a far better and more stable TC experience, 0.5+

Ive personally only had 1 tank in 3 years (a Geekvape Griffin 25) that was not happy to do reliable tc, my 3 year old Lemo 2's are as stable as can be, albeit as mentioned running 0.5ohm coils

Its why you'll never find a single post from me in over 2 years complaining about a dissapointing TC experience

I am sorry about the sudden cofusion in this thread, sorry about not being able to make me more understandable in english. But I have always tried to get as high resistance as possible!!!
That's why I asked for a usable tool or a better method for wrapping with thin wire.
Luckily somebody gave me a better method.
I shall try to be more clear in the future! :)
:) Peter
 
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BrotherBob

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?????????
I guess you forgot:):
"Hi.
I like my vape cool, so I aim for big resistance. I also like tc, < -------------------- so I use ss.
I bought the coil master diy kit v3. But I can only make it work with 26g, not 28 which I prefer. Am I doing anything wrong?
I HAVE moved the small screws closer to the pin...
Or are there other tools suitable for thin wires?"
 

Pgltz

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I guess you forgot:):
"Hi.
I like my vape cool, so I aim for big resistance. I also like tc, < -------------------- so I use ss.
I bought the coil master diy kit v3. But I can only make it work with 26g, not 28 which I prefer. Am I doing anything wrong?
I HAVE moved the small screws closer to the pin...
Or are there other tools suitable for thin wires?"
I didn't forget... I asked for an advice for a better tool or a better method to build the coil, because I found it dificult to deal with the thin wire. I don't know why the thread suddenly was about tc. I guess it's somehow is my mistake - because of my english.
You quoted something else when you sent me those links - a reply I made to someone who wrote that tc and ss worked best at 0.5 ohm and below.
I apologize for my reaction to your previous reply (with the links) but I felt very puzzled and a bit annoyed.
:) Peter :)
 
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Myk

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I don't know why the thread suddenly was about tc.

Because there is a range of Ω for TC, 1) required by the mod and 2) suggested.
TC should be able to take care of the differences of heavy vs light wire depending on the mod. TC definitely takes care of liking a cool or warm vapor.
 

Pgltz

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Because there is a range of Ω for TC, 1) required by the mod and 2) suggested.
TC should be able to take care of the differences of heavy vs light wire depending on the mod. TC definitely takes care of liking a cool or warm vapor.
A bigger mass at a certain temperature produces more heat to the surroundings than a smaller at the same temp. I like it REALLY cool...
 
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Pgltz

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Because there is a range of Ω for TC, 1) required by the mod and 2) suggested.
TC should be able to take care of the differences of heavy vs light wire depending on the mod. TC definitely takes care of liking a cool or warm vapor.

I forgot to say that I vape at 195° - 200° C - I can't go much lower than that and get a mentionable vape
 

Myk

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A bigger mass at a certain temperature produces more heat to the surroundings than a smaller at the same temp. I like it REALLY cool...

That's what I'm getting at.
The mass of the heat source shouldn't be what you're using to adjust the temperature. The temperature adjustment is for that.
The rate of heat up depends on the mass but on many TC mods you can adjust the wattage to account for that.

At least with newer TC mods wire gauge shouldn't be an issue other than getting to the .5Ω range for SS with the size of coil you want.
 

Myk

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I forgot to say that I vape at 195° - 200° C - I can't go much lower than that and get a mentionable vape

I thought that when I insisted on 400°-420°F. I'm at 360-380 now (which the high end is your low end). I could get a lot of vapor at 140°C. I'm not saying my coils are right but I haven't really changed anything on my old tanks other than my tastes for lower temperatures from a new tank.

I think you're trying to sort of bypass the temperature control by playing with mass. And that's OK. But for what you what you want, turn the temperature down.
 
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Pgltz

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I thought that when I insisted on 400°-420°F. I'm at 360-380 now (which the high end is your low end). I could get a lot of vapor at 140°C. I'm not saying my coils are right but I haven't really changed anything on my old tanks other than my tastes for lower temperatures from a new tank.

I think you're trying to sort of bypass the temperature control by playing with mass. And that's OK. But for what you what you want, turn the temperature down.

Ok, I shall get some ss430 26 G and see what I will get out of that :)
But last concern: lower resistance needs more power to get to the same temp, what happens to that extra power?
I don't use use tc to avoid dry hits. I use it to get a vape that is my sweet point all the way through.
:):) Peter
 
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Myk

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Ok, I shall get some ss430 26 G and see what I will get out of that :)
But last concern: lower resistance needs more power to get to the same temp, what happens to that extra power?
I don't use use tc to avoid dry hits. I use it to get a vape that is my sweet point all the way through.
:):) Peter

I don't know what the TCR is for 430. That will need to be set if the mod is set for 316L
If you've figured out how to get your winder to work I think you'd be OK with whatever you use.
I could try my 34ga for clapton wrap to test that theory, but I won't :lol: (if I had any 30ga SS I would, I can't imagine wicking the flimsy 34ga).

TC, low Ω and the power needed is confusing. It takes more power but then drops off when it gets to temperature. More mass of lower Ω means it holds the heat it has so it needs less power to stay there.
I don't know that I've noticed any considerable battery usage difference in any of my builds even thinking back to Ti.

I just use SS 26ga because when I was testing Ti between 26ga and 28ga I found no real difference other than Ω. If I would've stayed with Ti I planned on using up the 26ga and then using up the 28ga.
 

mackman

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Please forget my ignorance, but aren't drills used for combining different wires?
:)Peter
Cut a length of 28g wire and chuck 1 end in your drill and hold the other end with pliers and slowly twist the wire..twisting it will remove the springiness in the wire
 
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