The threads on mine are metal. Probably nickel. Should they be plastic? Maybe that's why mine haven't broken.
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I'm sorry. Yes, the threads themselves are metal, both on the mouthpiece and the tank. I've not experienced the issue myself, so I'm not exactly sure what happens when the issue occurs. I assumed some sort of breakage or seperation is happening right where the plastic mouthpiece meets the metal threading portion of the same mouthpiece, or on the tank end, or both. I'm sure those that are experiencing the issue can explain it better. (Actually, some pics would be helpful.) It almost sounds like maybe just a bad batch of clearomizers, but with both the Triton and regular Kanger version? Maybe, if they are essentially from the same batch, just with different threading added at the bottom at the time of manufacture, but that seems unlikely. I'm just thankful I've yet to experience the issue myself, as it sounds pretty annoying.
The tip does get warm, if you drag from it long enough. I can see how this would cause the metal element to separate from the plastic, as both these materials expand at different rates, when warmed up.
Mine are still rock solid, even though I've pushed them for over a month. You might be a candidate for an all-aluminium tip (~$1.50, elsewhere), if you can handle the heat.
Mine are still rock solid, even though I've pushed them for over a month. You might be a candidate for an all-aluminium tip (~$1.50, elsewhere), if you can handle the heat.
I've had this happen to 2 of mine in the first couple of weeks, I do use it hands free with a 1300 mah battery, and I also think I may have been overtightening. I haven't had a problem in the last month or so, still use it hands free, but don't tighten the mouthpiece as tight.
BadLar, I don't vape with the Triton hands-free, but with a pretty heavy 1300mah battery levering against the tip, that may be causitive. I'd recommend the aluminum replacement tips, but then who'd want to clamp down with their teeth on metal?
I do think that its important not to over-tighten since expansion from the heat while vaping will tighten it anyway.
I do think that its important not to over-tighten since expansion from the heat while vaping will tighten it anyway.
I'm honestly not sure what causes the problem.. You all have good tips and I think it could be a mix of problems, but so far here's my situation:
I don't ever bite down on the mouthpiece and always use one hand on my manual battery to support the weight.
My first replacement tank's mouthpiece literally came undone from the mouthpiece long before the mouthpiece was even touching the tank itself (other than the threads themselves, but leads me to believe it isn't always from over-tightening).
My second one lasted me about a week before doing the same thing, but could have been possibly from over tightening on that one.
The thing is, I always try to go very slow once I know the seal is getting close, but I always get juice leaks in my case right at the seal between mouthpiece and tank, so I try to tighten it as best I can without over-tightening to avoid this. Tightening it just right usually helps, but if I stop right when it begins to get tension, it will leak in my case. There is a very very small margin between perfect tightness and the mouthpiece falling apart.. The original two mouthpieces that came with my starter kit seem to hold up much better than the replacement tanks as they have not broken yet.. I really don't want to move to aluminum tips, but I may have to because this is very frustrating worrying about breaking something each time I want to refill my juice.
I don't ever bite down on the mouthpiece and always use one hand on my manual battery to support the weight.
My first replacement tank's mouthpiece literally came undone from the mouthpiece long before the mouthpiece was even touching the tank itself (other than the threads themselves, but leads me to believe it isn't always from over-tightening).
My second one lasted me about a week before doing the same thing, but could have been possibly from over tightening on that one.
The thing is, I always try to go very slow once I know the seal is getting close, but I always get juice leaks in my case right at the seal between mouthpiece and tank, so I try to tighten it as best I can without over-tightening to avoid this. Tightening it just right usually helps, but if I stop right when it begins to get tension, it will leak in my case. There is a very very small margin between perfect tightness and the mouthpiece falling apart.. The original two mouthpieces that came with my starter kit seem to hold up much better than the replacement tanks as they have not broken yet.. I really don't want to move to aluminum tips, but I may have to because this is very frustrating worrying about breaking something each time I want to refill my juice.
How about making this a sticky! LOL I'm getting tired LOL
Replacement tips that have more threads and are better built are available in PLASTIC and Aluminum. The later of which can be placed in your refrig for a rotating cool vape. Pun intended
Atomizer JuiceMate XL-Kanger T2 - REPLACEMENT MOUTHPIECE TIPS!
Black Tip for Kanger T2 Clearomizers Black Tip for Kanger T2 Clearomizers [kngr-t2-rplcmt-tip-blk] - $0.85 : ECIGSPLUS.com, Your Supplier for Electronic Cigarettes, E-Liquids, Supplies and More
http://www.ecigsplus.com/kanger-c-62_72/aluminum-tip-for-kanger-t2-clearomizers-p-221.html
Your Google querry to find other sources:
https://www.google.com/search?q=T2+...e7&rls=com.microsoft:en-US:IE-Address&ie=&oe=
Replacement tips that have more threads and are better built are available in PLASTIC and Aluminum. The later of which can be placed in your refrig for a rotating cool vape. Pun intended
Atomizer JuiceMate XL-Kanger T2 - REPLACEMENT MOUTHPIECE TIPS!
Black Tip for Kanger T2 Clearomizers Black Tip for Kanger T2 Clearomizers [kngr-t2-rplcmt-tip-blk] - $0.85 : ECIGSPLUS.com, Your Supplier for Electronic Cigarettes, E-Liquids, Supplies and More
http://www.ecigsplus.com/kanger-c-62_72/aluminum-tip-for-kanger-t2-clearomizers-p-221.html
Your Google querry to find other sources:
https://www.google.com/search?q=T2+...e7&rls=com.microsoft:en-US:IE-Address&ie=&oe=
How about making this a sticky! LOL I'm getting tired LOL
Replacement tips that have more threads and are better built are available in PLASTIC and Aluminum. The later of which can be placed in your refrig for a rotating cool vape. Pun intended
Atomizer JuiceMate XL-Kanger T2 - REPLACEMENT MOUTHPIECE TIPS!
Black Tip for Kanger T2 Clearomizers Black Tip for Kanger T2 Clearomizers [kngr-t2-rplcmt-tip-blk] - $0.85 : ECIGSPLUS.com, Your Supplier for Electronic Cigarettes, E-Liquids, Supplies and More
Aluminum Tip for Kanger T2 Clearomizers Aluminum Tip for Kanger T2 Clearomizers [kngr-t2-rplcmt-tip-alum] - $1.25 : ECIGSPLUS.com, Your Supplier for Electronic Cigarettes, E-Liquids, Supplies and More
Your Google querry to find other sources:
https://www.google.com/search?q=T2+...e7&rls=com.microsoft:en-US:IE-Address&ie=&oe=
The 'Titan of Tips' has spoken. Now I know why you gave me 5 alum tips. So I can rotate them through my refrig when I'm on a power-vape and not burn my lips. Only problem is I have to get a small refridg for the backyard. Course then I won't have to go in the house for a drink, this could work out great.
How about making this a sticky! LOL I'm getting tired LOL
Replacement tips that have more threads and are better built are available in PLASTIC and Aluminum. The later of which can be placed in your refrig for a rotating cool vape. Pun intended
I only had one tip that seperated from the threads. Just so happens that that one had the long threads, not the short ones.
My plastic tips get so hot that at times they burn my lips (haven't left a mark yet though). I can't imagine how hot the aluminum ones get.
My GF has the same issue as JR and Mike with hot tips. I had to get her a Glass Tip for her outside the Halo Nation tank + bats. Funny thing is I have no problems so go figure. Of course the BEST solution (insert broken record bla bla - see my sig) is for mother ship Halo to offer a glass tank with removable 510 tips or any friggin tank that uses the removable 510 tip standard. Then we can all bling it up and choose from plastic, aluminum, stone, resign, glass, opal, surgical grade SS made in Germany and probably some other material I forgot about. LOL. I don't mean to make light of the hot tip issue. It's serious and almost turned my GF away from vaping and I suspect others.
You left out ceramic and soft silicone.
LOL
The chewers really love those soft silicone tips. I guess it all depends on what you want to suck on. LOL We both forgot WOOD! Nothing beats sucking on a tree as in oak, walnut, ash, etc. LOL What a fantastic vape that must be. /sarc intended.
LOL
I say we pretend we left the wooden out deliberately. I did try one of the soft silicone tips, but it kind of freaked me out, so I tossed it in a spare parts box never to be seen again. The aluminum are a bit on the cold side. I kind of liked the ceramic one, but also a little on the cold side. The plastic aren't bad, but so far I like the Deldrin plastic the best. My report on drip tips is now completed.
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Wait a sec... The Triton is a manual battery; how do you end up using these, hands-free?
I have modified an 808 to ego adapter to use the Triton clearo on my Auto Dial a Volt batteries
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Cause that battery has only 808 threads no large threads, and it's expensive. The real question is why not get the auto VV batteries with VGO threads that are compatible with the Triton Tank and cheaper than the Dial-a-Volt. At least until the Triton Auto VV comes out
Yes, i prefer auto batteries because I have a hard time pushing those little tiny buttons. As for the Kanger T2, in my newbie journey, I ended up with 808 threaded hardware, so in an attempt to keep things compatible as well as experiment with different juice delivery systems, I found the Triton system that is also 808 threaded. I didn't know about the regular thread, skirt thread thing. So being the tinkerer that I am, I just wanted to get what I had already bought to work together.
Cause that battery has only 808 threads no large threads, and it's expensive. The real question is why not get the auto VV batteries with VGO threads that are compatible with the Triton Tank and cheaper than the Dial-a-Volt. At least until the Triton Auto VV comes out
The only larger batteries that i could find at the time I bought them that were VV, auto and 808 threading were the auto DAV batteries, as I didn't understand the skirt threading concept for the large batteries and juice delivery systems.
Now that we have that cleared up... (thanks!), how'd you make the adapter?
I know that eGo threading is very close to vGo (Halo); was it just a matter of filing down the center post of the adapter?
I know that eGo threading is very close to vGo (Halo); was it just a matter of filing down the center post of the adapter?
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