Triton tanks

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BadLar

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Now that we have that cleared up... (thanks!), how'd you make the adapter?

I know that eGo threading is very close to vGo (Halo); was it just a matter of filing down the center post of the adapter?


I had to file down both the outer ring and the center post to get it to sit on the battery without leaving a gap. I also had to file a couple of grooves in the button head on the battery side of the adapter for airflow so the auto batteries would fire. I also ordered adapters from 2 different places, the second ones I ordered, I am stuck with a gap between the battery and the clearo. I hesitate to name the place that I ordered the first ones from, because I am relatively sure that this was the place that my credit card number was comprimised and I would hate for someone else to suffer the same issue.
 

JohnnyDill

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I am mystified by these burned taste issues I hear about from Triton tank setups! I have experienced zero issues since day one. I use Halo liquids, stock non VV bats and stock resistance coils. I clean my coils once a week in hot water. Where the wick that goes through the coil itself- it gets a little "toasted" but most of this rinses off. When I re-use the coil after cleaning, I position that wick a little off center so a fresh part of that wick goes inside the coil. Three cleanings & three weeks for two coils with no burnt taste- they perform like new. Nothing but awesome! :vapor:
 

AngiBe

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I just cleaned out my Triton 2.4 ml tank and read somewhere about "dry burn"?!? I saw a YouTube video on this but not sure if this is for certain type tanks. Does anyone recommend a dry burn on Triton tanks or is it ok just to wash throughly, let it sit and dry then fill and vape? UGH just went I think I'm learning and get this, I get thrown for a new loop. 8-o:blush:
 

jefsview

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Nope. Due to it's construction, you cannot dry burn the coils. You have to attach it to the coil assembly which is part of the tank, and if you try to dry burn it, the smoky gunk that burns off will get into your wicks and the tank itself and you'll taste it.

I know. Because I tried and those were my results.

Best to just rinse under hot water and let air dry.

On Halo's Youtuibe page, they link to all Halo-centric videos there, and there's one on Triton Tank cleaning.
 

AngiBe

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Nope. Due to it's construction, you cannot dry burn the coils. You have to attach it to the coil assembly which is part of the tank, and if you try to dry burn it, the smoky gunk that burns off will get into your wicks and the tank itself and you'll taste it.

I know. Because I tried and those were my results.

Best to just rinse under hot water and let air dry.

On Halo's Youtuibe page, they link to all Halo-centric videos there, and there's one on Triton Tank cleaning.

I'm actually really happy to hear this...not that u tried it and tasted the burnt gunk, but that w/Triton you can do this dry burn thing. One less thing to have to mess with!
 

BigBen2k

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It's possible to remove the wick for a dry burn. Problem is it's really hard (not impossible) to get it back in the coil.

I just slide the wick over a bit. It only seems to work once the wick is dry though (overnight).

Plenty of vids on Youtube on how to clean a Kanger T2 (aka Triton), as well as coil rebuilding (if one's interested). I might try replacing the wick, some day; these coils look pretty strong.
 

jefsview

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It's possible to remove the wick for a dry burn. Problem is it's really hard (not impossible) to get it back in the coil.

I just slide the wick over a bit. It only seems to work once the wick is dry though (overnight).

Plenty of vids on Youtube on how to clean a Kanger T2 (aka Triton), as well as coil rebuilding (if one's interested). I might try replacing the wick, some day; these coils look pretty strong.

It's not an issue removing and replacing the wick. It's that the bottom of the coil assembly is glued to the tank and not removable, so you have to do a dry burn inside the tank. The fumes fill the tank and the wick that is attached to the coil, leaving everything smoky flavored/smelling.

I don't have that problem with something like the iclears that I use on my 510 device, since the tank is removable from the coil assembly, making dry burning easy and without contamination.
 

billybc96

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Yeah, I wouldn't recommend attempting to dry burn either. Doesn't work well with the Triton, and really isn't necessary. Regardless of what you do, eventually your coil assembly will go bad - which is why there are replacement coil assemblies for your Triton clearomizers (tanks). These assemblies are very easy to replace, just screw out the old one and screw in the new one. I tend to rotate my coil assemblies. So after one assembly has been removed, flushed out with hot water, and soaks overnight in alcohol, I've got another coil assembly screwed into that other assembly's tank.

I still have some new coil assemblies from my first replacement 5-pack, but I've yet to use all of them because of this rotation, which has kept my first and only 3 original tanks going strong for quite some time now. That won't last forever though, especially since I use thicker all VG juices, and eventually I'll need new replacement coil assemblies, and maybe eventually some replacement tanks. But the mileage I'm getting out of these tanks and coils is pretty amazing compared to what I've been previously used to. My first Triton batteries (400mah) might actually give out before my first tanks do.

That means I'm saving a lot of dough in replacement parts compared to my old setup, so I'm actually pretty happy with the Triton - despite its only being available so far with manual batteries. My wife appreciates that I'm not spending so much on e-cigarettes anymore as well, so now I'm free to spend a bit more money on other hobbies of interest, such as guns and gaming. Replacing both wicks on the Triton tanks looks to be difficult, but at least the top one can be replaced easily enough, except I'm not sure where I would get replacement wicks from. Anyone here have any information on where to get replacement wick from?

I've heard of stainless steel wicks as well, but am unfamiliar with them. I'm not even sure if they would work in this design clearomizer tank or not, so I'm curious if anyone here has any thoughts on that as well. Rebuilding and replacing the coils themselves seems unnecessary, as just buying a complete replacement assembly seems cheap enough that it doesn't seem worth the effort. The wicks themselves seem to be the weakest link in the whole coil assembly, but I'm not sure how you'd replace the one that goes through coil itself, though you may be able to pull that one out a bit, exposing fresh, unburned material to the coil. That could be worthwhile.
 
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