trouble with mechanical mod!

[nmaraldo]

i was using a sigelei 13 (... go figure right?) for about a month or longer, and let me say, it was working like a dream. not an ounce of voltage drop, which i made sure of by using a multimeter and testing the batt itself and then the + / - posts of the mod itself. same voltage either way. super pleased
then about a month in the button started getting hot and or id get misfires. and ill admit that was using coils around the 1 ohm mark and probably not the best of batteries (i have a problem with testing boundaries...) but thats not what im here for. as i under stand that using sub 1 ohm coils on cheap batteries will give you problems...

anyway i bumped up the resistance and... same problem. actually got to the point were it wont fire at all. ok maybe i probably effed my batteries, and noticed that the button spring seems to be looser/shorter.

fine got some brand new panasonic NCR18650PDs (which to my knowledge have the highest amp limits, and can handle ohms as lows at .5 or .4 aside from those sonys, which apparently can handle 30amps) and a variety of other protected batteries with limits at least over 8 amps. put some standard pre-built attys on it and... still wont fire. not a single atty in my collection will fire, and i made sure all posts made contact every where. stripped it, sanded it, cleaned it. nothing.

but the strangest thing is i can test the mod with a multimeter and still get the exact same voltage as testing the battery straight up! meaning it will send a current, just wont fire an atty!

if there are any pro electrical engineers/ handy modders/ or someone with this kind of experience, would you mind pondering this with me??
my guess is that the spring in the button definitely has something to do with it. maybe it is suddenly now a higher resistance than any of my attys, and they just get by-passed in the circuit? i dont know, but THANK YOU CHINA!

 

[Singlespeed]

Mech mods needs periodic cleaning. Sounds like you have oxidization on the mod?

 

[Izan]

Sounds like the center pin is not making contact. Twist a 510-510 on there and then your atty.


good luck
I

 

[rolygate]

Yeah, sounds like the connector could be the problem. It's very good practice to use a solid 510-to-510 adapter always connected, and just change the head as needed (as Izan says). This means the connector never gets stressed or subjected to liquid leaks. It may not be great for looks, as there could be a gap below an RBA. If you are using clearos, cartos or dripper atties then instead use an eGo connector plus a cone, and that will look better (if you worry about that).

 

[Gunslinger317]

Yeah, sounds like the connector could be the problem. It's very good practice to use a solid 510-to-510 adapter always connected, and just change the head as needed (as Izan says). This means the connector never gets stressed or subjected to liquid leaks. It may not be great for looks, as there could be a gap below an RBA. If you are using clearos, cartos or dripper atties then instead use an eGo connector plus a cone, and that will look better (if you worry about that).

Crushed center pin I bet

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

Last three posts. No connection at center pin. Since you can read voltage with the DMM, but can't fire the coil, what else could it be? If it turns out to be something else, I'd sure like to hear about it.

 

[nmaraldo]

i made sure that the center pin is touching the center pin of the atty. i know this by using atties that are capable of flush mounting, but instead screwing the mods center pin all the way into the top cap, thus leaving a gap between the mod and atty. and on my rbas with adjustable center pins, i scewed them all the way down.

 

[nmaraldo]

i still think it has to have something to do with the button and its spring. right before all this happened the button would heat up or misfire on and off. since it wasn't a consistent thing i assumed it had to do with which way the spring was sitting when it was compressed. there was enough play in the button that the spring could rattle around a bit, and if it fell in a certain position when i fired it it must have acted like a coil and heated up or misfired.

if the spring acted like a coil then it must have a certain resistance, and that resistance at first must have been heavier (lower ohm) than any typical atomizer, thus being by-passed by the current which takes the path of least resistance (higher ohm(the atty))under typical operation.

but since after some use the button started to heat up... could the spring have started to lose resistance (become higher ohm) and eventually become an easier path for current than an of my atomizers?

im no expert but this is my best guess... i guess. though now that i think about it if this were actually true than i would be able to read the springs resistance through the voltage drop of the mod...i dont know. its baffling yet id definitely like to know what the hell could have such an effect on something as simple as a mechanical mod, especially one that worked so well at first.

oh and i should mention that when i first got it i noticed that the button is actually screwed in very slightly crooked, as if it were cross threaded. it also looks like the inside of the tube where the button is screwed in has been sanded and then glued to the button, consequently making it difficult if not next to impossible to remove the button with out completely destroying it.

 

[Ryedan]

I understand why people are saying check the 510 connection. But because of the heat generated at the switch I would check that also. I know you can' take it apart completely, but if you can see any contact points, clean them, apply a small amount of Noalox or Ox-Gard and try it again. It might be this simple. Sounds like the switch was worked on and I hope it's not too messed up to work with now. Best of luck with it.

ETA: What device is this?

 

[nmaraldo]

I understand why people are saying check the 510 connection. But because of the heat generated at the switch I would check that also. I know you can' take it apart completely, but if you can see any contact points, clean them, apply a small amount of Noalox or Ox-Gard and try it again. It might be this simple. Sounds like the switch was worked on and I hope it's not too messed up to work with now. Best of luck with it.

ETA: What device is this?

i totally understand why it sounds like it would be the 510, but theyre a pretty simple mechanism, and as long as all contacts are touching and the isolator washer isnt damaged i cant imagine what would be wrong. there must be something a little less simple going on here...

please confirm: is noalox a lubricant or conductive material? and has anyone ever used computer processor heatsink compound for anything vape related?

also its a sigelei 13, ironically enough the "13a" which vaportekusa suggested was the one "without the faulty switch"

ill be asking them next, at least before i can post in the mod specific forum, by the way when can i do that?

 

[Ryedan]

Noalox and Ox-Gard are lubricants. Contact surfaces will touch through it. From the description for Noalox - 'Noalox contains a carrier material that excludes air from the termination point which prevents oxidation'.

So, it will do nothing immediately, but will keep oxidation at bay in the long term.

No idea about heatsink compound.

As far as I know you can post anywhere after 5 posts which you have. Could be wrong though.

Best of luck with it!