Hello, can someone please help me. Im new to building. I want to build a dual coil on the Pro rba that comes with the Protank 4 and i want my target resistance to be 1.5ohm. I know that means I need two 3ohm coils but im having some problems understanding it. On steam-engine it says I would need 11 wraps with 32AWG wire but thats with me leaving the "inner diameter of coil" at 1.3 and "leg length" at 5. I dont kn ow if thats right, thats what it was set to before i entered the 32AWG wire and what ohm i wanted. Can someone tell me if thats right? Or how to figure out the diameter of the wire. And the biggest question is, Does anyone know how many wraps will even fit on the Pro rba?! I picked 32AWG cuz of the 11 wraps but other people tell me thats too thin and to use 26 or 28AWG. Someone please help me out. Thanx.
Trying to build on the Protank 4 Pro Rba
- Thread starter vapeking1991
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I'm not sure that's why I want everyone's opinion. I want to know what gauge wire would be best to get 2 3ohm coils and make sure it will fit on the Pro Rba deck. You know make sure it's not too many wraps to where it won't fit on the deck.
So take the mandrels included in your Coil Master kit, see which on you can fit in the area for the coil on the RBA deck and wrap that one. Probably 2mm, 2.5mm or 3mm. A lot of this is personal preference, I prefer to go big, as most the coils I make in all my attys are 3mm, but sometimes a large coil ends up too close to the side, which can increase the chance of heat transfer to the outside. That can matter if you tend to chain vape. Once you decide on the mandrel size, just plug that size into Steam Engine and you should be good.
At 2mm, the number of wraps will drop from 11 to 8 for you. I used to do 2mm coils in my Billow V2, Zephyrus and Orchid, 8 wraps usually fit fine with even larger gauges. You might even be able to use the 2.5mm mandrel size, which would drop the wraps needed to 7, so whatever works for you.
So did this answer your question, or am I missing something?
Yes that sums it up for me thank you very much! I'm pretty busy the next couple days but I soon as get time im going to try it and I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks again.
Well I tried using 30AWG wire with the coil master and it does not work which makes me angry because im thinking i wasted my money on it. Why is it so hard to make my own 1.5ohm dual coil?!?! Very frustrating! I guess im just destined to use the pre-built coils. Because 30awg needs 11 wraps to get what i need and half the coil unravels as soon as i take the top part of the coil master off. So I obviously need a thicker coil but theres no way im going to be able to that because for 24awg wire i need 38 wraps and theres no way that would fit on the pro rba so i have no clue what to due, im screwed. Thanks for all your help anyway guys, much appreciated.
Are you using the Coilmaster coiling kit? I use the Kuro one and they are very similar. However, I don't use the tops at all, never really have. I pretty much am only using the metal rod to wrap around as I know it's diameter. With smaller gauge wire, it is best to keep tension on the wire as you wrap it. Withe the Kuro coiler, I use the hole through the handle to keep a firm grip on the wire and I keep tension on the long end as I wrap it around. When you get to the end of your wrap you will need to go about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way into another wrap to not lose half of the last wrap. That should get you to the number of wraps you need. It sounds like with the coilmaster you can't keep tension on the wire as you wrap it, that is why it unwraps itself when you remove the top.
So I am not alone, I'm trying to get a .15 ohm coil into a Vaporesso Gemini tank to be used with a Kanger Topbox mini. I like temp mode and would like to use nickel wire, I've just changed from 30 gauge to 28 gauge for a little more stability of the coil. The tank is a dual coil and one coil will not supply enough vapor so I'll use 2 coils at .3 ohms. To maximize the space I've decided to make an oblong coil but coils prefer to be circular which allows unwinding and loosens the coil so it can be removed. I've tried a few different methods, maybe it can work. I'm open to suggestions.
Yes I'm using the coilmaster kit v3 and i was keeping enough pressure as I coiled so much that it started to overlap itself. So it either unwinds or overlaps. If I don't figure it out soon and get it done im gonna have to resort to my last option and max out my credit cards on the pre-built ssocc coils before the regulations go into effect.
I use a coil kit and it's a little better than a drill bit. To reduce the spring effect of the wire you can heat it, bring it to a red temp with a lighter. I use a magnifying glass and do a slow wind keeping enough tension, I've used about a coil of wire and am beginning to get the hang of it.
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