I've used a 1.5 dual coil with no issues whatsoever (though I keep it in the 3v range), I'm sure it could handle a 1.4 as well.
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When i use 1.5 dual coils i run it at 4.6v . The highest you can go on the provari with a 1.5dc is 4.9v .It will E1 at 5v but even at 4.9 its at the point where the filler is burning so the provari can more then handle any 1.5dc
The provari can run a .8 ohm atty if you wanted since it goes down to 2.9v
The provari can run a .8 ohm atty if you wanted since it goes down to 2.9v
Exactly',
had the mini, couldnt take the battery changing, traded it for the regular with 18650, love it now. just love it.
had the mini, couldnt take the battery changing, traded it for the regular with 18650, love it now. just love it.
I just purchased the mini and received it friday the 13 it is freaking sweet! I have the extended battery and have no problem with it going dead on me. In the near future i am going to purchase the orginal for at home! The mini is going to be for outside and for deployments! Been using now for 1.5 days and am not looking back from the stinkys!
I got her yesterday. Silver satin regular size with extended cap. Blue display.
I love her. vaping Penelope with 1.7 Ohm 0.2 mm kanthal at 4.9 V right now. Sweet and powerful vape.
Battery AW IMR 18650 just got its first charge so I am anxious how long it will hold.
I love her. vaping Penelope with 1.7 Ohm 0.2 mm kanthal at 4.9 V right now. Sweet and powerful vape.
Battery AW IMR 18650 just got its first charge so I am anxious how long it will hold.
What is your setup and how much e juice a day ? I am going to get the mini as well and hoping I can get a whole day out of a battery. I'm using a kgo right now and get about 11 to 12 hours out of the battery with a smoktech 1.7 lr carto.
Well, the KGO is 1100mah and so is the 18490 (if you use the extension cap on the mini to use this size), so presumably it will be very close!
wait til you try a provari . You will neer touch a kgo again .You will get a lot more life out of the vari since its regulated and with the Kgo it just keeps dropping voltage while vaping.
Thank you both for your replies, I really like the mini and was hoping battery life would be tolerable and sounds like it should be. I'm going to order the extension cap and a couple of batteries so I can get through a long day if I need to. Thanks again
You're kind of missing the benifit of the ProVari by running it with such a low ohm coil. The sweet spot is between 7-8 watts. That roughly breaks down to 4.7-4.9 volts on a 2.8 - 3.2ohm coil. LR stuff is really made for fixed voltage output devices/unregulated mods, eGo batteries, GGTS(without a kick mod in it anyway) anything without regulation ability that must rely solely on the battery output voltage to run the coil. The whole point of the ProVari is to NOT be stuck with whatever voltage the battery is putting out. The ProVari is much more efficient with coils above 2.5ohms.
A Penelope @ 4.9volts with a 3.0ohm coil is the best setup I've found in terms of vapor production/flavor and battery life. It had near double the battery run time (on 18650's and 18490's) as the 1.4ohm premade wire @ 3.3volts, and produced more vapor and flavor doing it. The lower the ohms, the worse the battery life will be.
Hi Dave. Thank you for excellent advice. Just something I wanted to know.
I have made several coils since then, but kept them around 2.2 Ohm. Dunno why. I will try higher Ohm coil next time.
You must be right about battery life. My 2.2 Ohm coil gives me about 4 hours on 18650.
Thank you!
I have made several coils since then, but kept them around 2.2 Ohm. Dunno why. I will try higher Ohm coil next time.
You must be right about battery life. My 2.2 Ohm coil gives me about 4 hours on 18650.
Thank you!
I find the 34g NiCh wire is better for making 3ohm coils than the 32g. Res wire is exactly 1.5 inches between connections with 1/8 inch or less connection points. This almost always comes out to be 2.9-3.1ohms. You get 4-5 wraps on a triple wick with this setup, so I'd imagine 5-6 on a double. I recommend at least a double tip wick as it really makes the flavor/vapor production better. Get some .999 silver NR wire too if you have not already. It's much softer and easier to make connections on R wire and on the post.
Here is a link to the Ohms/voltage/watts chart. The number in the boxes is the total wattage for that volt/ohm setup. Lower watts = more battery time. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...sion/258623-best-voltages-_-ohms-chart-2.html
I was getting 2 days run time (6-8ml of juice used in that period) out of my 18650's when I was using a 3.0ohm carto/tank setup @ 4.8 volts. These GG tanks do seem to chew the battery life up a bit more at the same settings though, but totally worth it.
Here is a link to the Ohms/voltage/watts chart. The number in the boxes is the total wattage for that volt/ohm setup. Lower watts = more battery time. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...sion/258623-best-voltages-_-ohms-chart-2.html
I was getting 2 days run time (6-8ml of juice used in that period) out of my 18650's when I was using a 3.0ohm carto/tank setup @ 4.8 volts. These GG tanks do seem to chew the battery life up a bit more at the same settings though, but totally worth it.
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I have already bought load of Kanthal 32ga so I will have to stick with it for a while. Will try to make 3 Ohm coil with it. How you make triple wick? And especially, how you are able to squeeze it in the Ody/Pene channel? I am worried about shorts from the tank tip when I screw it all the way down if the coil protrudes over the channel. I am able to make double coil and put it in the Ody no problem.
I got the silver wire too. No problem at this point.
Edit: Found a thread about triple wick.
I got the silver wire too. No problem at this point.
Edit: Found a thread about triple wick.
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The trick with the 32g wire is to make the connection ends a little longer (They count towards the overall ohms) and let the positive (Ceramic side) R+NR connection come down the side a little more. This way you don't have 6+ wraps around the wick which could cause problems with dryness. Letting the R+NR connection come down the - channel (Metal side) causes extra heat to be conducted as it heats the metal housing a little more, but it's never really caused an issue for me. That's how to get 3ohms with 32g wire and not have 100 wraps lol.
The triple wick is tricky at first, but after a few goes you'll be doing it no problem. You may even come up with a better way of doing it than what's posted. I make an upside down pyramid and let the top two smaller pieces sit flat on top of the cup a bit. I've only had a problem with the mouth piece touching once, and that was from having the wicks stacked right on top of eachother in a line rather than the inverted pyramid shape. Just be sure to trim the wick sides close to the housing so you don't get any threading problems with the upper control nut or the mouth piece.
Another good trick is to wrap the negitive NR wire around the wick a turn or two in the side channel. This helps keep the wire from popping up from under the wick and loosing contact. No need to lock the wire in the control ring as was done with the Ody V1. This will cause the nut to unlock when using the liquid control. (it's why Imeo changed the design to only ceramic on one side I think)
The triple wick is tricky at first, but after a few goes you'll be doing it no problem. You may even come up with a better way of doing it than what's posted. I make an upside down pyramid and let the top two smaller pieces sit flat on top of the cup a bit. I've only had a problem with the mouth piece touching once, and that was from having the wicks stacked right on top of eachother in a line rather than the inverted pyramid shape. Just be sure to trim the wick sides close to the housing so you don't get any threading problems with the upper control nut or the mouth piece.
Another good trick is to wrap the negitive NR wire around the wick a turn or two in the side channel. This helps keep the wire from popping up from under the wick and loosing contact. No need to lock the wire in the control ring as was done with the Ody V1. This will cause the nut to unlock when using the liquid control. (it's why Imeo changed the design to only ceramic on one side I think)
I made my first triple wick today.
Thank you Dave for very useful hints and comments.
Thank you Dave for very useful hints and comments.
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