Tuning drippers into rta

[rolf]

$14.54 Authentic IVOGO Velocity RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 2.5ml / stainless steel + glass / 23mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

This one is not a squeeze tank; it's basically an rda with a big juice well; pretty much the same design as the original genesis types; four big holes you can send the wick down into the tank part, or you could just lay the wick over the holes and give the tank a shake/tilt before you vape.
Or you drop two or three wicks down 2 or three holes and leave one hole open and operate like a drip-and-drain system, where you squirt some juice in occasionally like a normal dripper, but it doesn't flood because you have the extra room at the bottom for the extra liquid to drain down, and you can see for yourself whether that drain tank is already full (in which case you know there's no reason to drip/squirt) or dry (in which case you know you could just squirt in a hefty load of juice - any extra will just drain down)

thanks ..sound interesting !

 

[crxess]

None of the tanks that are built for direct inhale won't give you good vape if you lower the power and try to mouth to lung them.
The thing is in the airflow. If you want a nice vape for mouth to lung, you need to have a atomizer with a small air hole on the deck, so once you start pulling air gets some speed when flowing over the coil, thus cooling a coil a bit, pick up all the vapor produced on it and directs it towards your mouth.
On the decks like Subtank's, where you have a wide bore airhole sitting below the coil, here's what happens:
You set the airflow to it's smalles setting and start taking a mouth to lung pull. Air is restricted at it's entrance and i'ts getting high starting velocity, but as it travels toward the coil it gets more and more space, it ekspands and slows down. By the time it gets to the coil it goes so slow it doesn't cool of the coil almost at all, and then picks up the vapor that is too hot in that moment and slowly directs it toward your mouth. The result is a huge condensation from hot coil and a cold air, extremely low amount of vapor with artificially strong TH and flavor.

I have done couple of modifications on Subtank RBA heads and the best one for us, regular vapers is if you go online and buy a ceramic cup for a Killer 705 or similar atomizers that are using same small ceramic cup for coil setup. Take the cup, and slowly rotate her and push into the air hole on the deck. t is a bit wider diameter, so you have to go slow and rotate so the outter part of the ceramic slowly wears out as you are pushing your way. Once you've pushed it all the way down, the top of the cup will remain on top of the deck. Take a screwdriver small enough to fit wick insertions on the cup, put the screwdriver in it and quickly twist it. The top of the cup will break off, leaving you only with the part that is in the air tunnel of the base. End result is about 1.3 mm airhole, perfect for MTL, and THEN you will see how Subtank performs with MTL style of vaping
I'm running mine with mesh build currently, once i'll have to dry burn the coil, i'll take some pics so you can see what it looks like

Any other tank that haves a huge air intake hole at the base can be modified in a similar way for those that like MTL but also like the way the tank fills up and looks...

Guessing you have not tried your testing in Temp mode?

If the coils are heating enough to still be super heating liquid, the setting is still To High.

* TFV4 - Impressive Cloud Tank
Clapton Deck - includes Air Reduction insert Single coil MTL

 

[roxynoodle]

There are inexpensive single coil RTAs.

EHPro Mini Buddha and Bachelor
HCigar HC tanks (2 models)
Lemo v1 and v2

 

[Two_Bears]

Nope. It needs a barrel and chimney around the build. To prevent flooding.

You don't need $100 for an RTA.

My favorite RTA is silverplay nano. You can get a clone on eBay for$15. You could probably get 5 RTA's for $100

Can I turn one of my drippers into an rta? Every dripper I have is great. Clone or not. I don't have $100+ to spend on an authentic rta & every clone has problems. Can I just put a cylindrical tank on top of a dripper and make an rta? Seems simple. What about airflow.

 

[Grimwald]

I know there is something called the Big Dripper. It's a tank that sits on top and you feed juice to the coil by pressing the drip tip. So it's a dripper with a tank. I've never tried one, but who knows.

 

[Rabbit Slayer]

I've been looking into this for a MTL tank, only $25 too
Bachelor Tank by EHPRO

 

[edyle]

I know there is something called the Big Dripper. It's a tank that sits on top and you feed juice to the coil by pressing the drip tip. So it's a dripper with a tank. I've never tried one, but who knows.

Yes actually the bigd was a good design; I didn't care for the deck it came with but the tank fit conventionally like any rda topcap so I tried it on my flashevapor deck and it fit almost perfect so I used to use that for a few months; main problem was refill; plus I guess the glass issue; the later version which was a glass tank didn't fit though; slightly different size (it was a clone too)

But the fundamental design principle is effective; change the topcap of any rda into a tank which you just press to drip.

 

[rolf]

I've been looking into this for a MTL tank, only $25 too
Bachelor Tank by EHPRO

me to ! have a batchelor and a wotofo serpent on order
and just now playing with a bellus .having fun

 

[HauntedMyst]

Super T used to make an attachment that turned just about any RDA into a top squonker. It's a shame they are gone.

 

[milandjikic]

Guessing you have not tried your testing in Temp mode?

If the coils are heating enough to still be super heating liquid, the setting is still To High.

* TFV4 - Impressive Cloud Tank
Clapton Deck - includes Air Reduction insert Single coil MTL

I am not interested in TC as long as it is in this form and used with the wires that is currently being used with.
I will be interested in TC the day they make it work with Kanthal, and they make it work no matter the resistance and the gauge of the wire it self.
However i did test it, pretty much all that there is to test, only to find out that i like the Kanthal builds more over any other build. Taste of the Nickel200 wire is disgusting to me, and if that would be the only wire in the world we are allowed to use in vaporizers i would leave vaping and go back to smoking.
Taste of the Titanium is somewhat better, but knowing that in case anything goes wrong Titanium can become poisonous as same as nickel, turns me off.
SS wire is the closest to a regular Kanthal vape, but same thing, if anything goes wrong with it and it glows up to a blue colour, it's not safe to use any more, so it's a no go for me.
So when i combine all the facts and add the fact that TC works ideally only in narrow spread of allowed parameters, that is super sensitive on the type of the atomizer used, gauge of the wire and the resistance, my personal opinion (which is my own and i do not ask anyone to believe it, or follow it ) is that once properly built, Kanthal is still the safest thing to use.

I was a smoker for 25 years, smoking about 2.5 packs a day. My doctor was bugging me all the time because of it. Had a medical exam about 6 months ago here in Canada, they looked in my lungs and everything and doctor said "i can see you're not a smoker" without even asking me have i ever smoked or do i use anything now. I'd like to keep it that way

And i think you didn't understand the part where i'm explaining why subtank like atomizers are not working so well when used for MTL style of vaping.
To put it simple, it's a same thing as if you would try to wash your car with a pressure washer, but the water flow would start from the nozzle and ended up at the end of the hose, and you would be holding end of the hose in your hand instead of the nozzle. You would still have the same pressure at the nozzle, same amount of water going trough the hose, but you can only try to spray that water on your car

 

[crxess]

And i think you didn't understand the part where i'm explaining why subtank like atomizers are not working so well when used for MTL style of vaping.

Disregarding all your Preference information, I think you have no idea what I understand or the array of equipment I have amassed and tested in a variety of ways.
Tinkering is my thing.
I gave you one look(TFV4 Clapton Deck). Another would be the TFV4 Micro with Listed MTL Coil Heads.
A Third working tank would be the Kanger Mini with 1.5ohm heads.
Forth and working excellent is the Mega-one tank with 1ohm CL heads. Switch to CLR .2ohm for lung hits.
Ithaka and KS Tanks easily open for lung and shut down for MTL - Both have AFC and LFC

So, what doesn't work for you, just might work for some of the rest of us.

62, 45 years 1.5PAD - working on 4th year 100% vaping

 

[milandjikic]

Disregarding all your Preference information, I think you have no idea what I understand or the array of equipment I have amassed and tested in a variety of ways.
Tinkering is my thing.
I gave you one look(TFV4 Clapton Deck). Another would be the TFV4 Micro with Listed MTL Coil Heads.
A Third working tank would be the Kanger Mini with 1.5ohm heads.
Forth and working excellent is the Mega-one tank with 1ohm CL heads. Switch to CLR .2ohm for lung hits.
Ithaka and KS Tanks easily open for lung and shut down for MTL - Both have AFC and LFC

So, what doesn't work for you, just might work for some of the rest of us.

62, 45 years 1.5PAD - working on 4th year 100% vaping

Disregarding your opinion on what i do have idea and what not, and ignoring the fact that you are disregarding my opinion so easily, i would like to know how do you use Ithaka for Lung inhales Ithaka in stock, on it's most open airflow is still tight mtl atty. I'm talking about regular Ithaka with regular ceramic cup inside...
TFV's, well, i tried them and after about half tank on each of those coils decided to sell it for 20CAD together with the RBA deck and everything else. Nothing for me there...
Mega, as far as the flavor goes, except for the Ithaka, all of the above you mentioned can hide flavor wise behind one simple subtank mini with reduced deck air hole.
Speaking of array of equipment, what makes you think i didn't try as many things, and what make you think i don't tinker my stuff as well?

 

[Jim_ MDP]

Isn't vaping damaged ceramic like... the king of bad ideas?
And you're worried about Stainless?

 

[milandjikic]

It would be in case where the coil is made of ceramic. In this case ceramic is not the part of the coil, all that remains is the part that is sitting inside the air channel in the base, and it's not touching the coil at all, nor its taking any significant heat.

Sent from my XT1563 using Tapatalk

 

[Jim_ MDP]

Right. The powdered particulate from broken sintered ceramic in your tank.

Okaaay.

Well, I don't have any ceramic to need to research any concerns, so... enjoy.
I'll be over here with my SS TC.

In my Bellus, 'Mizer and Bachelor RTAs.
(obvious attempt to get back to thread topic )

 

[Romano Cheese]

Cheers guys. I didn't tell the whole story. I would like to mtl on tanks that I can run about 11 watts. I would like access to the build deck with a full tank. Taifun is ugly imo. I have only heard about squapes, expromizers, hurricanes, fire birds, kayfuns and... I forget the others. They're all crazy expensive. Got loads of lung inhale tanks but want something more chilled. Thanx

Eciggity has a sale on Lemo V1s right now for $8

 

[sorrynomore]

None of the tanks that are built for direct inhale won't give you good vape if you lower the power and try to mouth to lung them.
The thing is in the airflow. If you want a nice vape for mouth to lung, you need to have a atomizer with a small air hole on the deck, so once you start pulling air gets some speed when flowing over the coil, thus cooling a coil a bit, pick up all the vapor produced on it and directs it towards your mouth.
On the decks like Subtank's, where you have a wide bore airhole sitting below the coil, here's what happens:
You set the airflow to it's smalles setting and start taking a mouth to lung pull. Air is restricted at it's entrance and i'ts getting high starting velocity, but as it travels toward the coil it gets more and more space, it ekspands and slows down. By the time it gets to the coil it goes so slow it doesn't cool of the coil almost at all, and then picks up the vapor that is too hot in that moment and slowly directs it toward your mouth. The result is a huge condensation from hot coil and a cold air, extremely low amount of vapor with artificially strong TH and flavor.

I have done couple of modifications on Subtank RBA heads and the best one for us, regular vapers is if you go online and buy a ceramic cup for a Killer 705 or similar atomizers that are using same small ceramic cup for coil setup. Take the cup, and slowly rotate her and push into the air hole on the deck. t is a bit wider diameter, so you have to go slow and rotate so the outter part of the ceramic slowly wears out as you are pushing your way. Once you've pushed it all the way down, the top of the cup will remain on top of the deck. Take a screwdriver small enough to fit wick insertions on the cup, put the screwdriver in it and quickly twist it. The top of the cup will break off, leaving you only with the part that is in the air tunnel of the base. End result is about 1.3 mm airhole, perfect for MTL, and THEN you will see how Subtank performs with MTL style of vaping
I'm running mine with mesh build currently, once i'll have to dry burn the coil, i'll take some pics so you can see what it looks like

Any other tank that haves a huge air intake hole at the base can be modified in a similar way for those that like MTL but also like the way the tank fills up and looks...

I've done the something very similar.Instead of using the ceramic cup I used the bottom rubber grommet of a protank coil and inserted that.Works like a dream for me.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Yes actually the bigd was a good design; I didn't care for the deck it came with but the tank fit conventionally like any rda topcap so I tried it on my flashevapor deck and it fit almost perfect so I used to use that for a few months; main problem was refill; plus I guess the glass issue; the later version which was a glass tank didn't fit though; slightly different size (it was a clone too)

But the fundamental design principle is effective; change the topcap of any rda into a tank which you just press to drip.

It's a knockoff of the 3-D spring loaded atty.

 

[haleysdadda]

I know there is something called the Big Dripper. It's a tank that sits on top and you feed juice to the coil by pressing the drip tip. So it's a dripper with a tank. I've never tried one, but who knows.

I bought a big dripper style RDTA from Authentic TKO Vape Fuel Dripper 26650 RDA/RDTA but the 22mm one (which I see they don't even list anymore) because it was supposed to be better! It has Mutation X V4 airflow! So I thought "WTH I've got a V4 that's has really nice airflow so why not get this with like airflow so I don't have to drip & drive"! IMHO NOT!!! That thing is a joke! More of a novelty than a real usable atty! Just doesn't hold enough juice (2.5ml)! With that big deck & the coils you can put in there You'd need 10ml to make it worth it! Then it would too huge! Big dripper IDK! But TKO, NOT!

 

[rolf]

hey all
just looking at my trainvape by hot cigs !
it comes with a drip tip top section ...all you need to convert it is to take some top parts and glass off and replace with the dripper top !!
using mine as a tank set up for now but will try it as adripper
later...just one more idea to look into