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so the brass tube actually slides inside the atty when its assembled to deliver the juice? the attys i use dont have a big enough hole in the bottom to get anything that size in there. the jice box i made just has a tube going to a hole in the side of the gutted cart to drip onto the atty. looks very nice though. if my attys were the same as the ones u are using id do it the same as u did here. looks like a very good delivery method
Yeah, pardon my ignorance, but I was wondering how a 510 atty would screw into that battery connection with the brass tube sticking up so high? The base of a 510 atty is flat and only has a small hole so I don't understand why the brass tube is sticking up so much in the battery connector. How does that work?
@doomfinger & uneverno
the 1/16 OD tube simply fits perfectly up the hole in the bottom of the atty, unless you are using some weird 510 knock off atty i have never seen before it fits perfectly.
yes that hole in the atty is small.... yes the tube is very small.
This is known as "bottom feeding" to deliver the juice directly to the atty coil more or less and is used on several mods (MKV, Mambah, HPs 18650 mod, the wood box one i can't remember the name of, and others i am sure) its the latest trend in moding so to speak. though I have yet to use a bottom feed device (my atempt at mimicing HPs 18650 mod had horrible results) It is said to be a better method then top feeding.
the 1/16 OD tube simply fits perfectly up the hole in the bottom of the atty, unless you are using some weird 510 knock off atty i have never seen before it fits perfectly.
yes that hole in the atty is small.... yes the tube is very small.
This is known as "bottom feeding" to deliver the juice directly to the atty coil more or less and is used on several mods (MKV, Mambah, HPs 18650 mod, the wood box one i can't remember the name of, and others i am sure) its the latest trend in moding so to speak. though I have yet to use a bottom feed device (my atempt at mimicing HPs 18650 mod had horrible results) It is said to be a better method then top feeding.
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OK, I checked my atties and it definitely wont go in them. Then I checked my cartos and sure enough the hole is much bigger and it would go into them. So there are obviously 510 atties about that have different size holes on them. Funny, I thought.
UGGGG, for about the 10th attempt in my modding, I cannot figure out how to reassemble these stupid center pieces without ruining the rebber piece! I remember now why I never completed one the correct way. HP, how the heck do you reassemble it? Is there something to use in stead of the rubber piece? I wonder if the amazing putty would work....gonna try.
I just drip a drop of VG in the connector then slowly wiggle the positive back in. This problem is also why I keep all my dead atty's. To rob that isolator when I need one.
Can this be done with a 901 connector? Ive never made a mod before but this one looks fairly simple.Thanks to the way you lay it all out step by step and took great pix also.Great job it really looks like a fun first mod for me to try.
Storm (And others)...
I had the same problem of ripping the rubber in the connectors, after destroying several, I just went out to the garage ( I got the idea reading a post on MadVapes website about building your own), and found some rubber gasket material that I had bought at Home Depot. I'm sure almost anything will work...
I used a paper hole puncher and popped out a few disks which fit pretty damn well with no modification and I was in business again!
My hint is to DRILL a pilot hole for the pin (I used a finishing nail), it kept the rubber from ripping... (I used three of them - one on top and two on bottom to center the nail) soldered a lead to the nail and haven't had a problem with it for months....
I had the same problem of ripping the rubber in the connectors, after destroying several, I just went out to the garage ( I got the idea reading a post on MadVapes website about building your own), and found some rubber gasket material that I had bought at Home Depot. I'm sure almost anything will work...
I used a paper hole puncher and popped out a few disks which fit pretty damn well with no modification and I was in business again!
My hint is to DRILL a pilot hole for the pin (I used a finishing nail), it kept the rubber from ripping... (I used three of them - one on top and two on bottom to center the nail) soldered a lead to the nail and haven't had a problem with it for months....
Thank you so much for this tutorial! This looks like something I might be able to make, and the pictures are such a huge help for me too!
Thank you for sharing HighPing!
Thank you for sharing HighPing!
For those asking about the tube. This is the one part of this mod that is not really cut-n-dry. There are some 1/16th OD pipes that will not quite fit in some attys and will need to be sanded down a little. The best bet is to take an atty to the hobby store (Hobby Lobby in my area) and just look through the rack of tubing to find something that definitely fits.
As for the rubber isolator, I hate those things. As others have mentioned, there are several alternatives to using them.
One thing I have done on some of my other mods is to get rid of the center connector and the isolator all together and just use the pipe. The best way to do this is to use two pipes, one slightly smaller than the atty hole and one slightly bigger. The bigger one will act as the 'stop' and also give a good electrical contact point.
First slide the smaller one into the bigger one and establish the correct length of exposed little pipe by using an atty. Then solder the two pipes together. Now screw your atty into the outer connector and put the pipe in from the bottom side and mash the putty in around it. The atty will hold the pipe dead center and keep it from touching the sides of the connector while applying putty.
Here is a pic of this method from another mod I did...
On this one you can see where I didn't get quite enough putty mashed in from the bottom. It works just fine but you may want to push in a little more. You can always unscrew the atty and clean out any excess while the putty is still soft and then put the atty back on while it hardens.
Couple things to keep in mind if you go this route... You should make sure you have your bottle cap ready (drilled) before you start to putty so that you can slide it on while the putty is still soft. You should also make sure to solder your red (positive) wire to the pipe before you start filling with putty.
As for the rubber isolator, I hate those things. As others have mentioned, there are several alternatives to using them.
One thing I have done on some of my other mods is to get rid of the center connector and the isolator all together and just use the pipe. The best way to do this is to use two pipes, one slightly smaller than the atty hole and one slightly bigger. The bigger one will act as the 'stop' and also give a good electrical contact point.
First slide the smaller one into the bigger one and establish the correct length of exposed little pipe by using an atty. Then solder the two pipes together. Now screw your atty into the outer connector and put the pipe in from the bottom side and mash the putty in around it. The atty will hold the pipe dead center and keep it from touching the sides of the connector while applying putty.
Here is a pic of this method from another mod I did...
On this one you can see where I didn't get quite enough putty mashed in from the bottom. It works just fine but you may want to push in a little more. You can always unscrew the atty and clean out any excess while the putty is still soft and then put the atty back on while it hardens.
Couple things to keep in mind if you go this route... You should make sure you have your bottle cap ready (drilled) before you start to putty so that you can slide it on while the putty is still soft. You should also make sure to solder your red (positive) wire to the pipe before you start filling with putty.
Very Nice Highping. Good to see you back. Guess I have to settle on a favorite atty...
It LOOKS like you took the master switch out to put the button in it's place?? yes??? Does it present a problem when you drop this mod in yer pocket??
Jus wonderin
No, the master switch stays. That is where the red wire from the PB switch runs. The switch I added goes beside the original on/off switch. You can't see it in any of the pics because it is on the side facing away from the cam.
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