UFS - Quick question

[Ezkill]

So I've been using a UFS V2 for a while now and I'm pretty happy with it. Works fantastically well except for one thing.

I have several HH357's but one of the new ones just doesn't work very well with the UFS. Basically the holes on the bottom of it are directly covered by the the little tabs in the post. With the other ones at least some of the holes are exposed and they work just great. With this one it does all kinds of strange things probably due to the holes being completely obscured. It has an extremely tight draw and once in a while it's almost like it gets some back pressure and does a POOF that shoots a bunch of air out of the top.

Is there some way to expose more of the holes? I assume backing it off a bit is a bad idea because then the juice control will losen it over time.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Keeno]

Hey there EZ.....wish I had some advice for ya on this matter to help you out BUT wanted to at least let you know I experienced the exact same thing with a few of the 357's I used. Never found a solution myself though occurred fairly infrequently. Interested in what others have to say on this one.....

 

[Ezkill]

Yea I was thinking there might be some adjustment I could make.

Seems a shame to throw 22 dollar atomizers in a drawer to never see the light of day.

Ignore PM, I was having some site issues and I had actually stopped typing in it and it appeared it went through anyway. Thanks Keeno.

 

[Bishopheals]

oh boy thats what i use i got a lot of the 357s

Oh what awaits, I think its time to loose myself in some Skyrim. At least till this black cloud leaves us be if its not one its another.

 

[Ezkill]

Just to be clear bishop, one of them does not work well....the rest do. I'll figure something out so I can back that one out a tiny bit and make it work when I'm done with this tank.

 

[Bishopheals]

I sent him an email see if he gets back to me. he moved his shop to Massachusetts. My family lives there and I was going to make a trip out there soon so I'll see if I can stop in and check out.

Probably make it a Vape day

 

[dspin]

Every carto or atty can vape differently on a UFS - you never know until you put it in. Doesnt matter the brand - I use to have some Ciscos that would not work properly - just have to switch them out

 

[fright88]

+1 to what Dspin said.

However if the holes are just slightly off I have found that sometimes backing it off slightly will still work. However you have to make sure everything is well lubed and the juice controll is a bit more sensative then normal. Even backed off 1/4 turn the tank bottom should make contact when the juice controll is closed completely.

I normally do that as a last ditch effort though as I have found that 90% of the stuff I put in the ufs even if the holes don't like up perfectly will work.

 

[Bishopheals]

I'm hoping that Hana gets back to me. Since his out in MA I don't mind taking a visit be a good vaping trip thats for sure. Ill give the UFS a test and run for its money.

Say EZkill if you have time can you provide me with a picture of the HH that works and the one that doesnt work. Just point out and show on the UFS what you think the issue may be so I can show Hana as a side by side comparison. That way maybe he can make it available under customs.

 

[Ezkill]

I think it's going to be completely random Bish and it's not something they can predict. They HH's don't look any different or anything. One just threads in 1/8th of a turn less. There is probably just nothing to be done about it. It's probably well within any manufacturing tolerance anyone could possibly set.

Fright88, this one would be in the 10 percent, hehe. It doesn't play well at all and the holes must literally just be in the completely wrong position because it gets 0 flow and the draw is super tight.

Thanks for the answers guys, I appreciate it.

 

[Bishopheals]

when i get my ufs next week ill test it out with my hh and see what happens.

 

[cypresss]

Interesting problem you have there. The holes being covered by the "tabs" in the bottom shouldn't have anything to do with the tight draw. All of the air pulled through the mouthpiece comes into the atomizer through the air control and up through the bottom (center) of the atty. If anything it will prevent the atty from feeding correctly, since liquid cant get into the atomizer. I've used a couple of 357's in the UFS and they worked great. I have one other, I'll check to see how the holes on it line up.

**Edit: I seem to remember my 357's having a slightly larger-than-average hole in the bottom (for airflow I assume). Could it be that the firing pin/atty interface is the problem? If the pin blocks the hole, or basically fits inside it if the hole is large enough, that would definitely block your airflow.

 

[Ezkill]

Hey, that's really good to know about the airflow. For some reason it did not dawn on me, but should have, that obviously the air would come through the middle hole. *headsmack* Seems obvious now or I'd just be sucking fluid up much like through a straw.

I'll have to check out the one problematic 357 when I'm done with the current tank I have in the UFS with the working 357. There is something with the way it's tightening down that's making the draw so tight it's almost impossible to vape on. Yet, it works fine on a ProVari. I'll tighten it in and back out the post to see if the air comes through well. It could actually be that the bottom hole is partially or completely plugged. Wouldn't notice it on the ProVari since it can always bring in air from the little side holes as well.

Not getting good airflow out of the bottom would also explain the back pressure *POOF* and dry hits. Dry hits are not from the holes being partially obscured but instead due to not enough airflow to draw the juice into the atomizer.

 

[fright88]

Hey, that's really good to know about the airflow. For some reason it did not dawn on me, but should have, that obviously the air would come through the middle hole. *headsmack* Seems obvious now or I'd just be sucking fluid up much like through a straw.

I'll have to check out the one problematic 357 when I'm done with the current tank I have in the UFS with the working 357. There is something with the way it's tightening down that's making the draw so tight it's almost impossible to vape on. Yet, it works fine on a ProVari. I'll tighten it in and back out the post to see if the air comes through well. It could actually be that the bottom hole is partially or completely plugged. Wouldn't notice it on the ProVari since it can always bring in air from the little side holes as well.

Not getting good airflow out of the bottom would also explain the back pressure *POOF* and dry hits. Dry hits are not from the holes being partially obscured but instead due to not enough airflow to draw the juice into the atomizer.

I wonder if it is possible you got a sealed 357. I don't know if they even make them anymore but if I remember correctly all 357's were origionally sealed. I think it was an option last time I looked.

 

[Ezkill]

I suppose it's possible. I certainly didn't order a sealed one, just two standard long barrel SS 357's @1.5 ohms from the regular order page.

Didn't even know they came sealed. I'll check it when I'm finally done with this tank lol.

 

[imeothanasis]

Ez, if the air flow is tight then its an atomizer issue. As for the holes, there is no reason for them to be exposed because those holes are feeded via the internal channel on the top of the UFS connector (where you dont see threads)

So I've been using a UFS V2 for a while now and I'm pretty happy with it. Works fantastically well except for one thing.

I have several HH357's but one of the new ones just doesn't work very well with the UFS. Basically the holes on the bottom of it are directly covered by the the little tabs in the post. With the other ones at least some of the holes are exposed and they work just great. With this one it does all kinds of strange things probably due to the holes being completely obscured. It has an extremely tight draw and once in a while it's almost like it gets some back pressure and does a POOF that shoots a bunch of air out of the top.

Is there some way to expose more of the holes? I assume backing it off a bit is a bad idea because then the juice control will losen it over time.

Any advice would be appreciated.