Hi Giulio,
Been running it all lubed up since Saturday afternoon and still having it feel very gritty and harder to turn than V1.
Thanks,
Chris
UFSv1 vs UFSv2
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Hi Giulio,
Been running it all lubed up since Saturday afternoon and still having it feel very gritty and harder to turn than V1.
Thanks,
Chris
I may get shot for posting this as it contrradicts normal policy regards lubrication and care for the GG series. Anyway, one thing I have found in dealing with metals over the last 40 years is that a literally "brand new" item with threads or parts that interact with each other can have this issue.
It was most notable in the firearms when stainless steel construction was introduced but applies here. I had the same grittiness with my TMF #1376 but thought nothing of it since I was so used to doing the following: When the item is not "loaded" and not going to be left unattended (which can allow some galling), disassemble the unit and wipe the lubrication off completely.
Reassemble and "cylce" the contact parts repeatedly. What this does is allow the threads to "break in" and mate to each other. Like my firearms and my GGTS, I spent actually a couple of hours doing this. You will notice as your arms get numb and your hands cramped up from doing this hundreds of times that the grittiness begins to fade. That's the miscroscopic particles that are left from the machining process smoothing themselves out.
Do not leave it like this as even hand operations for extended periods will generate heat. Not a lot but it does some. When you have gotten to where the grit is noticeably less or your hands scream NO MAS!!!, reclean the threads and relubricate them. You should find it much easier to operate.
Yes there are other methods but this long, slow and sometimes painful method is the safest as you don't risk removing needed thread sharpness but you do allow them to be mated. Sorry if this sounds unreasonable to some but as I say, it is a tried and true method I have used for decades. If you are worried over it, you can do it over time but with the normal lubrication on it and the lack of repetitions to the mating parts can make it take a long, long time to get the smoothness you would get in a couple of hours of dedicated smoothing.
It was most notable in the firearms when stainless steel construction was introduced but applies here. I had the same grittiness with my TMF #1376 but thought nothing of it since I was so used to doing the following: When the item is not "loaded" and not going to be left unattended (which can allow some galling), disassemble the unit and wipe the lubrication off completely.
Reassemble and "cylce" the contact parts repeatedly. What this does is allow the threads to "break in" and mate to each other. Like my firearms and my GGTS, I spent actually a couple of hours doing this. You will notice as your arms get numb and your hands cramped up from doing this hundreds of times that the grittiness begins to fade. That's the miscroscopic particles that are left from the machining process smoothing themselves out.
Do not leave it like this as even hand operations for extended periods will generate heat. Not a lot but it does some. When you have gotten to where the grit is noticeably less or your hands scream NO MAS!!!, reclean the threads and relubricate them. You should find it much easier to operate.
Yes there are other methods but this long, slow and sometimes painful method is the safest as you don't risk removing needed thread sharpness but you do allow them to be mated. Sorry if this sounds unreasonable to some but as I say, it is a tried and true method I have used for decades. If you are worried over it, you can do it over time but with the normal lubrication on it and the lack of repetitions to the mating parts can make it take a long, long time to get the smoothness you would get in a couple of hours of dedicated smoothing.
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darn, didn't have any 21x1mm o-rings, only 21x1.5's... which are to thick and then leaves a gap at the joint. I'll have to order some at some point.
I may get shot for posting this as it contrradicts normal policy regards lubrication and care for the GG series. Anyway, one thing I have found in dealing with metals over the last 40 years is that a literally "brand new" item with threads or parts that interact with each other can have this issue.
It was most notable in the firearms when stainless steel construction was introduced but applies here. I had the same grittiness with my TMF #1376 but thought nothing of it since I was so used to doing the following: When the item is not "loaded" and not going to be left unattended (which can allow some galling), disassemble the unit and wipe the lubrication off completely.
Reassemble and "cylce" the contact parts repeatedly. What this does is allow the threads to "break in" and mate to each other. Like my firearms and my GGTS, I spent actually a couple of hours doing this. You will notice as your arms get numb and your hands cramped up from doing this hundreds of times that the grittiness begins to fade. That's the miscroscopic particles that are left from the machining process smoothing themselves out.
Do not leave it like this as even hand operations for extended periods will generate heat. Not a lot but it does some. When you have gotten to where the grit is noticeably less or your hands scream NO MAS!!!, reclean the threads and relubricate them. You should find it much easier to operate.
Yes there are other methods but this long, slow and sometimes painful method is the safest as you don't risk removing needed thread sharpness but you do allow them to be mated. Sorry if this sounds unreasonable to some but as I say, it is a tried and true method I have used for decades. If you are worried over it, you can do it over time but with the normal lubrication on it and the lack of repetitions to the mating parts can make it take a long, long time to get the smoothness you would get in a couple of hours of dedicated smoothing.
Absolutely agree Major! I've cleaned it 8 times in the ultrasonic and reapplied lube every time since getting it on Saturday. I haven't noticed any smoothing out. I'm not saying somethings wrong with it just sharing my observations on the difference between V1 and V2 and my concern.
Thanks,
Chris
take off the one of the 2 o-rings that are on top of the connector black
Thanks Imeo. I'll give that a try.
Chris
This might sound strange but I am going to suggest it anyways. This may help elevate the grittiness feeling in the threads as it did for my #029 SS GGTS Telescope threads. Take some metal polish (like Mothers which is what I used) and apply it to the threads. assemble the threaded parts and work them back and forth for a while. Take it apart, clean thoroughly, lubricate again and put it back together and try it. The minute amount of microscopic abrasives found in the polish should help smooth out the threads.
Thanks Zor.
As long as it won't hurt the threads I'll give it a shot too.
You guys are the best, all of ya. Can't wait for Major to start a thread on his findings after finally getting one. He must be in heaven!!
Chris
Bingo! I wasn't going to add that I do use some very, very lightly abrasive polish or compound on the threads to do the thread mating I described above. But if Zor said it, I feel safe in so doing myself. What adding the polish does is speed up the process of thread mating versus metal on metal.
Without the polish or similar, the two hours I listed is more like 4-5 hours...
In the machining business this is considered Lapping.
If you are interested in the details, Use the following Link
Lapping - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
If you are interested in the details, Use the following Link
Lapping - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Yes indeed. My Father-in_law was a machinist by profession for over 40 years. Betwen his knowledge and the gunsmithing/armorer training I got over my career really has come in handy.
I've tried all suggestions and the only one that made the juice control easier was removing one of the orings on the top of the base. After this though Juice started leaking more frequently into the collection tank so I had to put it back on. I'll get in touch with bruce and see about switching out some parts and see if that helps.
Thanks to all,
chris
Thanks to all,
chris
Blackwater don't give up on it. This is unfortunately a side effect of machining delicate parts in SS. SS likes to "stick" to itself during the machining process. Work hardening also occurs on a minute level (even when the part is sufficiently cooled during machining)
Working the parts together as Major suggests, with a polishing compound (as Zor suggested) is the solution to the problem. Next time your UFS is empty, work the parts very well, and clean them often during the process. removing the loose particles will help eliminate some of the perceived grittiness. Grinding the particles together for long periods will just result in them redistributing elseware and sticking
If that doesn't work, I have another solution, but I will only reveal that in a PM
Working the parts together as Major suggests, with a polishing compound (as Zor suggested) is the solution to the problem. Next time your UFS is empty, work the parts very well, and clean them often during the process. removing the loose particles will help eliminate some of the perceived grittiness. Grinding the particles together for long periods will just result in them redistributing elseware and sticking
If that doesn't work, I have another solution, but I will only reveal that in a PM
Hi Rick,
Thanks for the advice. I bought 2 new UFS V2 and I have a V1 that works flawlessly.
I've tried everything advised multiple and multiple times and alas it is just a machining error for this one. I love GG and Imeo and glad to be a part of a wonderful family!!!! Bruce has kindly offered to replace this with another. Unfortunately I have given the second V2 I bought to my friend up the road as was planned when I bought 2 of them and sent my V 1 to my brother in law in Maryland. So I'm a bit at a loss to be without one as I don't want to go back to analogs after 6 months free of the monkey. I will try one more cleaning and mothers application tomorrow but as I said in previous posts I've done a lot of these set ups and tear downs and it's not like I've given up. I just know the perfection of the product line and this one just came out different from the rest.
Imeo, love your stuff and I'm not at all badmouthing your fine product, I hope everyone realizes that. I will never turn away From GG.
You guys are the best there is!!
Chris
Thanks for the advice. I bought 2 new UFS V2 and I have a V1 that works flawlessly.
I've tried everything advised multiple and multiple times and alas it is just a machining error for this one. I love GG and Imeo and glad to be a part of a wonderful family!!!! Bruce has kindly offered to replace this with another. Unfortunately I have given the second V2 I bought to my friend up the road as was planned when I bought 2 of them and sent my V 1 to my brother in law in Maryland. So I'm a bit at a loss to be without one as I don't want to go back to analogs after 6 months free of the monkey. I will try one more cleaning and mothers application tomorrow but as I said in previous posts I've done a lot of these set ups and tear downs and it's not like I've given up. I just know the perfection of the product line and this one just came out different from the rest.
Imeo, love your stuff and I'm not at all badmouthing your fine product, I hope everyone realizes that. I will never turn away From GG.
You guys are the best there is!!
Chris
Just want to follow up and say that now I feel bad. I thought the thread was about the difference between V1 and V2. I guess I should have PM'd Imeo and Bruce privately. I didn't mean to speak poorly of the product and I don't feel like I did but I can see how it might seem as though I did.
I love all these products and have steered 50+ people to buy them and they have.
Imeo, Bruce and all of you are amazing people. If I highjacked the thread I didn't mean to. I thought we were just talking about differences between V1 and V2. If I'm wrong I apologize.
Thanks,
Chris
I love all these products and have steered 50+ people to buy them and they have.
Imeo, Bruce and all of you are amazing people. If I highjacked the thread I didn't mean to. I thought we were just talking about differences between V1 and V2. If I'm wrong I apologize.
Thanks,
Chris
I don't think you need to feel bad, that's what this forum and the family is here for Sometimes there are wonky parts, Imeo and Bruce are very good about taking care of those. I'd wonder what was up if my version 2 felt that way, My version 1 is like glass. Besides there might be someone else with a very similar problem, who is too hesitant to speak up. Someone has to ask
Hopefully you won't have to wait very long, It's no fun being without the one you love
Sometimes there are wonky parts, Imeo and Bruce are very good about taking care of those. I'd wonder what was up if my version 2 felt that way, My version 1 is like glass. Besides there might be someone else with a very similar problem, who is too hesitant to speak up. Someone has to ask Hopefully you won't have to wait very long, It's no fun being without the one you love
No apologies needed Chris, as Rick has stated it's what this place is here for, criticism is good as long as it's constructive, and if it has helped at least one person then it has done it's job, the right way
The one thing i will give Imeo credit for is he loves constructive criticism, we all learn from it enabling the product to be moved forward.
Try that in another manufacturers forum and there is a good chance it will be deleted, it's one of the big differences about this particular forum, you are listened too, and long may it continue
Just wondering if will there be separate sales of the parts of the UFS? I'm thinking to get an other UFS Tank Top to 'Upsize' my current UFSv2 to a bigger capacity UFS.
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