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I don't quite understand it either. I think it operates on the principle that electricity follows the path of least resistance. I'm anxious to try it, next time I have to replace one of my set ups.
i will say on a completely raw wick like in some of the videos floating around, first its almost impossible to do the in coil oxidation on something like a provari since you get the e1 and 5 sec delay making it take all day.
and there is a difference between oxidizing with all the quenching and graying and whatnot and just adding a little bit of carbon buildup to the outside layer near the coil.
anyways the idea with the raw wick in the coil method is simple the coil is burning the mesh causing carbon/oxidization to form right in that spot only under the wire.
the very first few wicks i made i did a quick burn with a lighter to the top half of the wick like i saw in a video, then saw some other posts and thought hey this isnt oxidizing like everyone is talking about maybe it would work better if i did like that so i went the full route
burn,quench,roll bla bla bla, and suddenly saw the performance drop with that wick, still worked but not as well as the way i already did it.
after further examination (like mentioned - forcing a perfect setup) i realized without knowing it at the time this is why my first few times wrapping sloppy coils were a nightmare and took lots of practice to get them perfectly wound.(i thought it was just me and bad luck lol)
like said already, with this method i have never had to tilt the atty to force the coil area to get wet, i usually hold my pv at about a 45 degree angle when vaping and even in my 5 mil cobra almost empty (fluid 15-20 millimeters from the coil) i never seem to get a dry hit.( a little less vaper on some hits if chaining too fast but never dry ones)
something i never been able to do with a solid or fully oxidized wick
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I only have VV and VW mods. I have no mechanicals. So, I'm assuming that the non oxidized wick wouldn't be something I'd find useful. You're correct. Pulsing out a hot spot on a Provari is next to impossible, because of the delay.
same here... but I'm thinking that even a mechanical wouldn't handle a shorted coil, the resistance would end up way too low and something nasty would probably happen.
so there it must be something in either your "least resistance path" theory, or perhaps the little carbon deposit/buildup between coil and wick does suffice. I'm wondering if the initial dry-burn of the coil and/or the quick torching of the wick (Petar K method, I think) do provide this little help for getting things started.
so there it must be something in either your "least resistance path" theory, or perhaps the little carbon deposit/buildup between coil and wick does suffice. I'm wondering if the initial dry-burn of the coil and/or the quick torching of the wick (Petar K method, I think) do provide this little help for getting things started.
It's one reason I don't own any mechanical mods. Others will differ with me; but I don't believe in pushing batteries that hard, with no built in safety features.
this what i do - just carbonize the end a bit and it works great for me.
agree with the mech statement im paranoid about the slim chance of having a pipe bomb 1 inch from my face should something go wrong inside .
I've always had this problem, trying to understand why/how a working thing is - duh - working...
And yes, I've dissected (aka broken) lots of toys in my life, but can't help myself
I no longer use VV/VW mods (my good one is broken, my others have amp limitations), and part of the reason is because of the sensitive circuitry that makes adjusting coils tedious- but I'll admit that they are a bit safer than my mech mods.
If you get a hard short on a mech mod, you'll know it right away. Even hard shorts will not immediately kill a battery- it takes at leat a few seconds- and you'll definitely notice that "nothing is happening" when you press the button. More likely is a short that pops a coil, which happens fast and causes no harm at all. Either way, a multimeter is indespensable when setting up a new coil on a mech mod.
If you've got some common sense- and good intuition, and a multimeter, and some b@lls- mech mods can get a coil up and running quite quickly, and the direct DC vape is unparalleled, except maybe by the slight-PWM of the Provari. There is a definitive, noticeable difference in responsiveness- and you definitely feel "closer" to your vape, if you get what I'm saying. Also, I know I'm only one person...but in all the time that I've been using mech mods- starting with stacked batteries in an Xhaler 2 years ago- I've never had a meltdown...in fact, I've never even ruined a battery.
I'll admit that trying an unoxidized wick makes me a tad bit nervous, though.
You would have a field day with my friend, who has a stacked-18350 box mod pushing 45 watts... Even I get on his case about it a lot. Even a single 18350 mod with 28 kanthal is dangerous at less than 5 wraps. His next project is going to be a 50-plus watt stacked-18650 tube mod...the guy is definitely one to push the limits...
...and yet, he's lucky enough to not have blown his face up...yet...
Ninja...when I do a petar k set up...usually 4 wraps 32g kanthal or 6 wraps 30g kanthal....I first check the ohms of the coil after the build. I will usually get 1.5 or 1.6 ohms. When I insert the wick I check the ohms...it will be the same. When I fire it up a few times I check the ohms...still the same. It is amazingly stable. I would never be able to achieve that type of stability with oxidized wicks...go figure.
there seems to be alot of advantages to the wicks not having to be oxidized, and cant wait to give it a go. love to have things running with more efficiency. i think this thread is going to change alot of set-ups, at least until another wick material is found even more efficient than ss. (maybe the porous ceramic ) . glad to have started this thread for some good information. i have seen and heard of this un-oxidized wick process for quite a while, but my thinking has been, why not leave well enough alone. for me eveything couldnt be working any better. i always have a stable coil, i mean after the initial set-up, my resistances stay the same for weeks. but i like the sound of using less watts and more efficiency. thanks
Today's been a lazy day, and I finally have an empty tank to try this on (ironically, it's my first RBA ever- the DUD). I'll give it a go right now and see how it holds up.
Not sure if I will use the petar k drill bit method for it- the multimeter will let me know if that's gonna be necessary or not. If I do, the setup won't take 100% VG juice quite as easily as a more tightly-wrapped coil...but, maybe the increase in wicking from the wick will offset this.
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So far, I'm not all that impressed. The first coil I made was done with the wick in place instead of the drill-bit method, and was absolutely full of hot spots. Eventually, I ended up taking the wick out carefully as the battery recharged (I definitely took some life out of my last 18500 with this build, lol), and pre-oxidized the same coil before removing a section of the wick to make it easier to place. After the wick was in, I noticed that the coil was not throwing hot spots, but was not in contact with the wick- which is never ideal for a genesis build, because it makes keeping the coils wet many times harder than usual. After 15 minutes of struggling, I had the coil working with eliquid in the tank, but even now- many hours later- this setup is still not as reliable as a standard, oxidized wick with a coil wrapped nice and snug against it. I still have hot spots and wicking issues occasionally, although when it does work, it works well (if you tip it).
To me, this was much more trouble than it was worth. A lightly-oxidized coil gives you 90% of the benefits of this system, and none of the finicky drawbacks. All in all, though, the setup did exactly what I thought it would- it shorted out constantly, because that's what steel is good at
/Ninja
To me, this was much more trouble than it was worth. A lightly-oxidized coil gives you 90% of the benefits of this system, and none of the finicky drawbacks. All in all, though, the setup did exactly what I thought it would- it shorted out constantly, because that's what steel is good at
/Ninja
So far, I'm not all that impressed. The first coil I made was done with the wick in place instead of the drill-bit method, and was absolutely full of hot spots. Eventually, I ended up taking the wick out carefully as the battery recharged (I definitely took some life out of my last 18500 with this build, lol), and pre-oxidized the same coil before removing a section of the wick to make it easier to place. After the wick was in, I noticed that the coil was not throwing hot spots, but was not in contact with the wick- which is never ideal for a genesis build, because it makes keeping the coils wet many times harder than usual. After 15 minutes of struggling, I had the coil working with eliquid in the tank, but even now- many hours later- this setup is still not as reliable as a standard, oxidized wick with a coil wrapped nice and snug against it. I still have hot spots and wicking issues occasionally, although when it does work, it works well (if you tip it).
To me, this was much more trouble than it was worth. A lightly-oxidized coil gives you 90% of the benefits of this system, and none of the finicky drawbacks. All in all, though, the setup did exactly what I thought it would- it shorted out constantly, because that's what steel is good at
/Ninja
Your results are about what I expected. I don't think I'll be trying it. I don't think it lends itself to VV and VW devices anyway. I think I'll stick with my drill bit method, and oxidized wicks.
You got to let the device do the job of oxidizing the wick. There's no need to over do the initial oxidation process. Simply roll the mesh, burn only the tip where the coil will wraparound with a lighter or on the stove top for 5 seconds then wrap your coil. If there's a short or a hot spot, twist the wick little by little until you find a good spot. Once you find a good spot the device will do the rest of the job.
If I used mechanical mods or hybrids, I'd probably be more into the process. But I only use VV and VW devices, which all have delays, so, pulsing out hot spots is next to impossible. I'm better off if the wick is well oxidized before installing. I do only oxidize my wicks beneath the coil, and as far as the wick goes down through the hole.
So far, I'm not all that impressed. The first coil I made was done with the wick in place instead of the drill-bit method, and was absolutely full of hot spots. Eventually, I ended up taking the wick out carefully as the battery recharged (I definitely took some life out of my last 18500 with this build, lol), and pre-oxidized the same coil before removing a section of the wick to make it easier to place. After the wick was in, I noticed that the coil was not throwing hot spots, but was not in contact with the wick- which is never ideal for a genesis build, because it makes keeping the coils wet many times harder than usual. After 15 minutes of struggling, I had the coil working with eliquid in the tank, but even now- many hours later- this setup is still not as reliable as a standard, oxidized wick with a coil wrapped nice and snug against it. I still have hot spots and wicking issues occasionally, although when it does work, it works well (if you tip it).
To me, this was much more trouble than it was worth. A lightly-oxidized coil gives you 90% of the benefits of this system, and none of the finicky drawbacks. All in all, though, the setup did exactly what I thought it would- it shorted out constantly, because that's what steel is good at
/Ninja
I don't believe you did the technique the correct way. The drill bit is needed to form a perfect coil. Then you roll mesh to fit the coil with very a minimal to no pressure fit.
I posted here on replicating Petar K method. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...hot-spot-free-cleanable-coil.html#post8150824
I prefer "solid" mesh which I replaced for the hollow one in the post. I get no hot spots. Maybe a minor short, but with a dap of juice or a slight twist of the wick, they resolve themselves very quickly.
I do slightly torch the mesh unrolled, to remove any residual oils after cleaning the mesh with some dish detergent, so there probable is some minimal oxidation occuring. I also use a Provari and have no trouble at all
It takes about the same time as the regular technique and what is nice here is that I can clean my wick daily in about 30 seconds. Twist remove, torch, fire the coils then pop the wick back in and vape....
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