Upgraging from an eGo = variable voltage?

[Lyrikal]

Hey all, so I have an eGo, 650 and 950 mAh batteries, LR attys (some with no bridge), and use a derlin drip-tip.

I previously asked how to get more out of my PV, vapor, throat hits, flavor, etc. From what I hear, mods are the way to go. Though some research, I realized that most mods are simply PVs with various battery/atty/cart combinations, most not looking like e-cigs. All in all, the only thing that I realized that stood out for the best production of what I needed came down to voltage. Sure the box ones carried more liquid (reo), and some large ones had batteries that lasted forever, some even had LEDs and displays, but then I found out what VV was, the ability to go from 3.7 to 7. I've come to the conclusion that the only way to get what I'm looking for is to get a VV device.

Did I nail this? Is my research conclusive? lol

That being said, is there such thing as an eGo type e-cig (not a box, a flash light sized or massive odd detonator type looking device) that has a VV adjuster? Oh, and may I add, that is less than $100?

Also, while I got your attention, I noticed that there are such things as HR attys. Now if LR attys are the way to go for better vapor production, why do people use HR attys?

Thanks.

 

[vocr]

Check out the Ego Booster (Artisan Vaping | Home of the Ego Booster). Sounds exactly like what you are looking for. Its made in Western Canada too, I believe.

 

[nocturn4l3030]

you might want to look into the ego booster if youre set on wanting to keep the ego / cig look. theres also a ego vv battery out there..so those are your two options

Products | Artisan Vaping

the awesome thing about VVs is its flexibility..you can use anything on them, lr, sr or hr. not only that but the voltage stays consistent. so if your vv pv says 3.7v, itll stay there exactly. when using a big 3.7v mod, it might start at 3.8 then slow lower in voltage to maybe 3.5v where you might want to replace the battery

essentially, a vv mod rated at 3.7v and a vv boosted ego at 3.7v should hit the same (regular egos are around 3.3 or 3.4v underload)

 

[nocturn4l3030]

google ohms law calculator (im on the cell)

3.7v + say 1.5ohms = a certain wattage.

now lets say youre using a 6v device....enter 6v and 1.5ohm and you'll see the wattage increases alot, which is way too hot and will pop your atomizer. put in 3.5ohm (which is HR) and youll get a near equivalent wattage to the 3.7v and 1.5ohm

basically the higher the voltage, the higher ohms you need

bah, thats a horrible explanation but im on the cell sorry -.-; im sure someone else can explain alot more clearly

 

[John Phoenix]

Yes and no. LOL I went from a Riva (ego) 3.7 battery 2.0 ohm to a 5 volt mod that only cost 25 bucks (3.0 ohm). The difference between 3.7 and 5 is pretty big, enough for me that I cannot see going to a higher voltage. I may be wrong because I never tried higher than 5 volts but it works for me.

Also with lower voltage you need a lower resistance (ohms) atty to get the stronger hit, like 5 volts and up does. So you can simulate the 5 volt 3.0 ohm feeling by using a 3.7 volt with a 1.5 ohm atty.

The Key is watts. Find what wattage works for you and your good to go and can get the same watts with low voltage low resistance or higher volts and higher resistance. We call this the sweet spot. Find your sweet spot. There is a chart Here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/71422-atomizer-battery-watts-chart.html

Just let your fingers do the walking. Most people find they get the best hits from about 8 watts, so match up the voltage and atty Ohm wise that gets you there and give it a try. You may have to save the chart to your PC to make it easier to read.

You know when your 3.7 battery is fully charged it hits really good then as time goes doesn't hit so good? Well, look at the chart, on left side Single 3.7 volt at 4 volts and a 2.0 ohm atty gives you 8 watts. As voltage decreases, so does wattage and the ability to deliver that same good hit.

This chart doesn't go lower than 2.0. I had one that did but cannot find it now. If I could find it, it would give you a better idea what you can do with a LR atty at the voltages your battery uses. Going up the scale you can see using a 5 volt regulated battery and a 3.0 atty will give you 8.33 watts.

Found it. This chart goes down to 1.4 ohms

Here's the link: http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/469/wattage.png

 

[Str8V8ping]

Hey all, so I have an eGo, 650 and 950 mAh batteries, LR attys (some with no bridge), and use a derlin drip-tip.

I previously asked how to get more out of my PV, vapor, throat hits, flavor, etc. From what I hear, mods are the way to go. Though some research, I realized that most mods are simply PVs with various battery/atty/cart combinations, most not looking like e-cigs. All in all, the only thing that I realized that stood out for the best production of what I needed came down to voltage. Sure the box ones carried more liquid (reo), and some large ones had batteries that lasted forever, some even had LEDs and displays, but then I found out what VV was, the ability to go from 3.7 to 7. I've come to the conclusion that the only way to get what I'm looking for is to get a VV device.

Did I nail this? Is my research conclusive? lol

That being said, is there such thing as an eGo type e-cig (not a box, a flash light sized or massive odd detonator type looking device) that has a VV adjuster? Oh, and may I add, that is less than $100?

Also, while I got your attention, I noticed that there are such things as HR attys. Now if LR attys are the way to go for better vapor production, why do people use HR attys?

Thanks.

Yes VV makes a world of difference on most juices . I personally cant vape at 3.7v anymore . Higher voltages to me give the feeling of smoking a anolog . I would say look for a device that can also put out enough wattage as well . There is a VV ego i believe . A lot of people like the provari ,prodigy and darwin from what i read . The only pv i have that i bought is the riva so i cant say . All my VV mods i built . Some people do still prefer a 3.7v PV over VV still but i find VV to be the key to vaping .A 3.7v with a lr atty hits pretty good . 6v with a lr dc is killer but not all VV mods can handle the wattage .

 

[DaveP]

Being able to use 3 ohm attys and still getting lots of vapor and being able to tweak the voltage is a plus. I'm using a 3 ohm Little Dwarf drip atty on my VV box mod now, and it's amazing how much vapor I get from 70/30 liquids. The throat hit is about the same as a cigarette and taste is improved over an eGo battery.

The chief difference is being able to tweak in small increments. Going from 3.4v to 3.7v is too much for some liquids. Tweaking slowly from 3.4v up to 4v or 4.5v is an experience that creates subtle flavor differences. If you get harsh, burnt taste, you just crank down a little at a time until you hit the sweet spot.

Two 14500 protected batteries can give you 1800mah capacity. That gives you the power to generate wattage at higher levels than an eGo batt.

 

[Nomoreash]

I think you pretty much nailed it with VV. You can get anything you want along with VV but for me I think it's a must no matter what. The ability to use any carto/atty you have on hand and just adjust the voltage to it to get your personal preference makes life much easier. Plus no matter what you choose even if you just want to set it to 3.7v and leave it, it's regulated voltage so the first vape is going to be as good as every vape thereafter until it's time to recharge the batteries.

With you criteria and budget the closest one I know of right now is the Infinity Pro unless your open to plastic box mods then you have lessor priced options.

People use HR atties at higher voltages, LR atties are made to simulate higher voltage vaping from a 3.7v, Ego, Riva type batteries that don't have the ability to go any higher with voltage. You really don't need LR atties with a VV device but if you already have them that's the beauty of VV, you can use them along with anything else, just keep the voltage turned down when using LR. I personally find atty/cartos around 3ohms work the best with VV as that will give a wide range of preference on the scale but anything will work.

 

[Big Screen D]

IMO, a 2 battery VV mod is the way to go. As an example, a one battery eGo VV that claims to be 4.2v won't deliver 4.2v under load, and the voltage will diminish as the battery discharges. What is important, particularly if you like to use LR devices is what wattage the PV can deliver. I can take the same DC carto off a non regulated eGo bat at 3.7v, and on my IPro set to 3.7v and it's like night and day. As for the reason people use HR atty's rather than LR atty's with VV devices capable of 5+ volts is mainly battery life, and depending on the PV, the wattage it can deliver at LR ohms.

I'm totally sold on the NotCigs Ipro. It can run LR carto's all the way to 4.7 volts under load. IPro





I've learned, like most the hard way.

 

[chatter97]

I found the Ego and Ego T batteries dropped in performance within 2 hours of usage. Even if you do not go VV, take into consideration that LiIon batteries are not supposed to have a performance drop off till near the end of the batteries charge. So with any mod that takes a LiIon battery, you will get the same performance till the end of the battery charge, this makes a big difference. This is my take on the advantages of mods, the batteries hit the same for longer, unlike the ego which has a pretty quick drop in performance.

Isnt there a Ego mod that has a vv tuner?

Recently I bought a Silver bullet which is not vv, but it is noticeable in performance compared to the Ego, it hits consistently for hours right around 3.6. Paired with a LR it is awesome, and if I want to play I can get 5 and 6 volt vaping! Something to consider and allot easier to use and understand for a noob.

 

[marcellus7]

First for full disclosure Im a Reonaut, lol. But be sure not to write-off some mods (like the Reo) as single voltage. You can use different battery combos for 3.7, 4.8v, 6 and 6.4v with a Grand, plus you don't have to worry about dripping and topping off with a bottom feeder.

 

[Lyrikal]

Wow, I much appreciate the amount of info I got there, thanks guys... I'm not sure what the etiquette here is, by to sum up what I've learned and are now wondering about, just a few more things to sum up.

Regarding the eGo Booster, that's pretty close to exactly what I was looking for, but didn't know existed. However, it only goes up to 4.7, don't most vv do wider ranges like 3 to 7? Is 4.7 enough if I consider matching up that voltage with the right atty? Or would you strongly recommend that I spend 120 (infinity/buzz/s) rather than 60 (booster) to go from 4.7 to 6 volts?

Speaking of attys, would this be an example of the combinations I would use?... LR atty with 3.7, normal atty with 4.7 and HR atty for 6 to 7? And once you're at either extreme you'll either get nothing or it'll blow the atty? It's simple math if this be the case.

To the poster with the graph, I kinda get it... But I notice the numbers on either side are extreme (bottom left and top right), so is this "sweet spot" we talk about somewhere on the line that seperates the white and red? (looking like an average of 13) Or is it more towards it being, if you're a heavier vaper, the higher the number (wattage) the more vape you get?

And to someone who said that 1800 mahs would generate more power, I didn't know that's what they did, I thought that's what the voltage was for... I though that mahs were the life span of a batttery, which seemed obvious to me when comparing 180 to 650 to 900 etc life spans... Was I wrong?

Much thanks for the info!

PS I didn't know Reos had combos for different voltage settings, my bad

 

[vocr]

Being a user of both the Ego Booster and the Darwin, I would say the answer depends on you. Do you like your vape super hot? Do you like high resistance heating elements (4ohm or above)? If you do, then the 4.7v would be a serious limitation. Otherwise no, it won't be much of a limitation at all.

Personally, I am not a hot vape person and juices taste better for me at "normal" heat. I also like my throat and its a bit sensitive to the heat. I am usually in the 6-7.5 watt range on my Darwin the vast majority of the time (around 4.2v to 5v depending on ohm). And don't go above 4.5v most times on the Ego Booster (usually around 4.2-4.4v is the right heat for many heating elements for me). I use regular resistance heating elements. I don't like the HV heating elements (bad taste for me) and LR is useless when you can control the power. LR is only for devices that are stuck at singular low voltages.

Edit: Most of what I call the "weird battery" mods (not just the Reo) can be used in HV configs. This is not variable at all, just to caution. You actually are forced into a HV experience many times (the Reo offering some lower voltage combos) if you do this. Also to note, most (not sure about the Reo) are not regulated. So you get one voltage with fresh batts but as you vape the voltage drops.

I should note that I don't like weird battery mods . When I was a newbie I wasted money on an Indulgence, GG and alphaultra (mods that have local sellers here). I hated using the battery charger and switching out batteries, felt like I was back in the 90's charging batts to put in my remote control, lol. Also, pretty ridiculous to travel with. The Ego Booster showed me the light on what a difference variable makes. That is just me though, to be clear, most here seem to really like them.