USB Passthrough Doesn't Work - WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!

[xLowEndx]

I ran red wires to:

switch - out of switch - to center post of atty connector

I ran black from:

outside of atty connector - to resistor (for LED) - to LED - to black wire on USB cable
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The results:

When plugged into Any USB port the LED lights up great!

Nothing from atty though.
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THEN:

I bypassed the LED and resistor and just had a black wire to the outside of the atty
connector.

This got the atty to "sizzle", barely. And, this only happens when plugged into my computers USB port.
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So what do I want?:

For it to actual work, lol. I would love for the LED to work too.
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What do I need to do to make this thing work?

 

[BobTheKlown]

Get a multimeter (harbor freight has them for ~$3, if there's one near you) and check the circuit, sounds like there's a problem with the connection, probably at the battery connection, but it's really hard to say without both it and a multimeter in front of me... Could be the solder joint for either the + or - is a hollow connection, or may not be getting good enough contact for some other reason...
I'm assuming you've tried the atty on another power source and the atty works fine?

And your resistor is blocking current to the atty connector the way you have it wired. Try usb - atty - resistor - led...

 

[xLowEndx]

I'm assuming you've tried the atty on another power source and the atty works fine?

And your resistor is blocking current to the atty connector the way you have it wired. Try usb - atty - resistor - led...

The atty works fine and is not a LR510, just standard.

This is what I have:


Should it be like this instead?

 

[BobTheKlown]

Consider this: electricity flows from - to + so, if you're resistor is inline between the led and the atty, that's where you're limiting the flow... Try this based on your orig schematic:

(your led has to goto both + and - also....)

 

[xLowEndx]

real fast, your + wire is going to center right?

 

[BobTheKlown]

it should be, yes... although the atty doesn't really care which is + and -, for simplicity, ground to the side of the atty and + to the center post...

Also, might double check for shorts in there, if you're shorted out inside the batt connector, that will also cause problems...

 

[xLowEndx]

I've already checked the connector and it definitely allows for power to flow to the atty,

I resoldering now, I'll let you know in 20 mins. tops

 

[xLowEndx]

Man, I don't know what I'm doing wrong, Now LED just flashes.

Ya think you could show me an updated schematic with no LED/resistor in the circuit?

 

[BobTheKlown]

it's the same as the one I just posted but mark out everything in the middle... just black from usb to side of batt connector, red from usb to switch and from switch to center post of batt connector...
lemme see:

that should do it... other then that man, you gotta get a multimeter and check all your connections, maybe there's a problem with the wire or solder type you're using??, idk... If you have the ability to take pics of what you've got, post 'em or PM me and I'll give you my email to send 'em to, maybe I can see something you're overlooking?

 

[BobTheKlown]

try using a different switch if you have one? if it's a .5A switch it may have burned out?, or maybe it was defective to begin with? just trying to eliminate possibilities....

 

[BobTheKlown]

and if you're using a wall adapter it really needs to be 1.5A or greater, a 500mA - 1A charger adapter will not vape well, if at all.... Ah should be printed on the back of the plug, usually below Vin [110-240V ac] and Vout [5V dc]...

 

[xLowEndx]

the switch is rated at 3 amps, and does work fine. Can I not be getting enough amperage from the usb port on the computer? I just don't know.

 

[BobTheKlown]

Idk either, I just made one of these last week for my roommate with led and 3A switch, his runs fine on computer and on his Iphone chargers.... tryed a different port? I know on some computers 1/2 the usb ports are 1.1 (Idk if this can put out enough amps) and 1/2 are 2.0 (which I know puts out enough amps), if it's a really old computer they may all be 1.1, which again, idk what it's capable of....

 

[xLowEndx]

I'll have to test some things with a multimeter and I've already ruled out the wall adapters cuz just like you said, 500mA to 1 amp.

I'll try the USB port in the gf's car.

 

[AttyPops]

BobTheKlown answered the original problem in his 1st post. Your description said you ran the connection for the atty through the same resistor as the LED. Can't do that. Maybe I missed something in all the other posts, but his next schematic showed you that you need an extra wire/resistor/LED path for the LED. Usually my "black" wire goes strait from the connector shell to the ground. His post #9 is as simple as it gets. That will do it with no LED. Adding a led means adding another wire, resistor, LED as he shows in #4. You can optionally add a 220 ohm resistor between the data wires on the USB connection. This can tell the USB device to use higher amps for charge mode.

I wouldn't use a direct usb PT on my computer anyway tho. The wall-wort or charging-hub is the way to go. Mine is 2A. I wouldn't plug it (the PT) into anything I wouldn't want to risk blowing up. Make sure you don't use an LR atty on a 5v PT.

If you're still running the atty connector through a resistor, you'll never get anywhere in this particular setup.

EDIT: I re-read the THEN: part.... You got to post #9 and had a light sizzle.
Use a 2 amp wall-wort. You can try the data-wire resistor. MIGHT help, might not.

 

[AttyPops]

FYI -- one found the reference. He said it worked for him. FYI that was a powered hub too. Use at your own risk:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/103842-converting-e-cig-use-usb-power.html

Update on this:

I added a 200ohm resistor between the two data wires on a USB cable and my USB PV'r now works on my powered usb hub. Actually I used 2 100ohm resistors since I couldn't find 1 200ohm resistor. And it's vaping great. However, it still does not work on my inverter in my car which is disappointing. I don't know about my netbook yet. I'm still probably drawing more amps than the USB hub/host can technically supply so I'll probably work on that to limit the amperage to 1.5A by adding more resistance in the future.

Also, Wikipedia said something about a 200 ohm resistor on the dedicated-power connector side, so the device can detect it. Just found that today. IDK. Use at your own risk.

 

[xLowEndx]

Yeah I'm following everything that you guys are saying, thanks. It's still not working right though so I tried it again with another cable with just the leads running to the atty connector. Just sizzling . . . . I guess none of my USB ports are giving me enough amps . . . .