USB Passthrough Question - Easy answer I hope

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xLowEndx

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Looking to make a 5 volt passthrough...
( made a few mods already :2cool: )

All I would like to do is have a usb cable, to a switch, to atty connector. Will this work? Safe? I've read of others having issues with their computer's usb ports so will this also be compatible with a usb to wall adapter? Also,

Are any of these necessary?
- battery
- regulator / resistor
- voltage booster

Anyone know of a thread to what I'm looking for? Any help is, as always, greatly appreciated.
 

BobTheKlown

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That's really cool w/ some good info and links.

If I was to wire in that 220 ohm resistor would I just wire it in between the 2 data wires? Thanks!

? what resistor are you talking about? If you want an led you need a 470ohm resistor inline with that, otherwise, no, you don't need a resistor. You don't need to do anything with the data wires, though I would recommend insulating them from each other and from the power wires, just for safety's sake...
 

Bubo

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Just for Reference:

AttyPops said:
FYI - I put a 220 ohm resister between the data lines. Even though I use a wall-wart. The resister signals a USB 2.0 + port to use "charge mode" and supply more amps. If I ever plug it into a computer USB connection, it may work better. I think there is a wiki on usb standards and some other threads in this forum on the topic. I use a larger box and a 3 or 5 amp switch like Bubo said.

I don't think that anyone has ever verified this... But hey - it's not gonna hurt anything!
 

BobTheKlown

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Well... I've never heard of anyone having problems with not drawing enough amps. I, personally, would be VERY reluctant to connect an intentionally shorted cable (even the data wires) to my computer, but maybe that's just me, with over $3000 invested in my desktop, not counting peripherals, monitors, ect... If I still had an old shell (I used to have a couple of laying around to reformat drives and run/burn questionably dangerous software), then I might trust it on that....
 

AttyPops

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Just for Reference:

AttyPops said:
FYI - I put a 220 ohm resister between the data lines. Even though I use a wall-wart. The resister signals a USB 2.0 + port to use "charge mode" and supply more amps. If I ever plug it into a computer USB connection, it may work better. I think there is a wiki on usb standards and some other threads in this forum on the topic. I use a larger box and a 3 or 5 amp switch like Bubo said.

Bubo said:
I don't think that anyone has ever verified this... But hey - it's not gonna hurt anything!


Well... I've never heard of anyone having problems with not drawing enough amps. I, personally, would be VERY reluctant to connect an intentionally shorted cable (even the data wires) to my computer, but maybe that's just me, with over $3000 invested in my desktop, not counting peripherals, monitors, ect... If I still had an old shell (I used to have a couple of laying around to reformat drives and run/burn questionably dangerous software), then I might trust it on that....

LOL. I haven't tried it/verified it either. It was on this site and some wiki's. I didn't invent it. Supposedly it's part of the USB standards.

1) It's not exactly shorted if it is through a resistor. It's a pull-up/pull-down signaling type of thing.
2) I agree BobTheKlown. I wouldn't suggest you use a direct USB PT on a computer EVER. Data line resistor or not. That's just my opinion. ESP not a DIY one. Why risk a $300 computer mobo cuz you are too cheap to buy a $10.00 wall-wort? The resistor is really for a usb connector on a computer equipment hubs / chargers, not a motherboard. Some disagree. I wouldn't put a home built PT on my expensive equipment. But like the stickies say, use at your own risk. We try to provide correct info :)
 
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AttyPops

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Well... I've never heard of anyone having problems with not drawing enough amps. I, personally, would be VERY reluctant to connect an intentionally shorted cable (even the data wires) to my computer, but maybe that's just me, with over $3000 invested in my desktop, not counting peripherals, monitors, ect... If I still had an old shell (I used to have a couple of laying around to reformat drives and run/burn questionably dangerous software), then I might trust it on that....

FYI - His not drawing enough amps is in the other thread he posted, or so it seems. He says he gets a very light sizzle, but not enough. IDK if it works or not (the resistor)... Just something I ran across in another thread. I wouldn't try and use it on a work machine or really anything until I checked into it more. I don't use it on computers at all. But, this is Do It Yourself stuff...
 
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AttyPops

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I found an outside-this-site reference, IDK where I saw it here before. However, wikipedia (as of today) says:

Power

The USB 1.x and 2.0 specifications provide a 5 V supply on a single wire from which connected USB devices may draw power. The specification provides for no more than 5.25 V and no less than 4.75 V (5 V±5%) between the positive and negative bus power lines. For USB 2.0 the voltage supplied by low-powered hub ports is 4.4 V to 5.25 V.[28]

A unit load is defined as 100 mA in USB 2.0, and was raised to 150 mA in USB 3.0. A maximum of 5 unit loads (500 mA) can be drawn from a port in USB 2.0, which was raised to 6 (900 mA) in USB 3.0. There are two types of devices: low-power and high-power. Low-power devices draw at most 1 unit load, with minimum operating voltage of 4.4 V in USB 2.0, and 4 V in USB 3.0. High-power devices draw the maximum number of unit loads supported by the standard. All devices default as low-power but the device's software may request high-power as long as the power is available on the providing bus.[29]

Some devices like high-speed external disk drives may require more than 500 mA of current[30] and therefore cannot be powered from one USB 2.0 port. Such devices usually come with Y-shaped cable that has two USB connectors to be inserted into a computer. With such a cable a device can draw power from two USB ports simultaneously.[31]

A bus-powered hub is initialized at 1 unit load and transitions to maximum unit loads after hub configuration is obtained. Any device connected to the hub will draw 1 unit load regardless of the current draw of devices connected to other ports of the hub (i.e. one device connected on a four-port hub will only draw 1 unit load despite the fact that all unit loads are being supplied to the hub).[29]

A self-powered hub will supply maximum supported unit loads to any device connected to it. A battery-powered hub may supply maximum unit loads to ports. In addition, the VBUS will supply 1 unit load upstream for communication if parts of the Hub are powered down.[29]

In Battery Charging Specification,[32] new powering modes are added to the USB specification. A host or hub Charging Downstream Port can supply a maximum of 1.5 A when communicating at low-bandwidth or full-bandwidth, a maximum of 900 mA when communicating at high-bandwidth, and as much current as the connector will safely handle when no communication is taking place; USB 2.0 standard-A connectors are rated at 1500 mA by default. A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8 A of current at 5.25 V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8 A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification.
However, it looks like the resistor is on the charging port side, not the device side. So the device can tell how the port works. The (other?) article before indicated that it was on the cable. IDK. Also, this article indicates that 500ma is the max unit draw without using a Y-cable type thing. Another reason to not use a computer usb connection for a direct PT.
 
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AttyPops

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Found it. He says it works. Use at your own risk:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/103842-converting-e-cig-use-usb-power.html

Update on this:

I added a 200ohm resistor between the two data wires on a USB cable and my USB PV'r now works on my powered usb hub. Actually I used 2 100ohm resistors since I couldn't find 1 200ohm resistor. And it's vaping great. However, it still does not work on my inverter in my car which is disappointing. I don't know about my netbook yet. I'm still probably drawing more amps than the USB hub/host can technically supply so I'll probably work on that to limit the amperage to 1.5A by adding more resistance in the future.
 

xLowEndx

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Here's where I'm at:

-First Diagram

Untitled.jpg

This is how I had it originally and the LED lit up great every time but the atty never fired, ever.

-Second Diagram

260v2gk.jpg

This is how Bob mentioned to do it in the other thread and now the LED blinks and the atty just barely sizzles, barely. NO VAPOR, THIS SUCKS.

Like I said I believe its just the lack of amperage.
 

xLowEndx

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Also Bob mentioned current flows through the negative wire but does this contradict bob's statement?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Reference direction

When analyzing electrical circuits, the actual direction of current through a specific circuit element is usually unknown. Consequently, each circuit element is assigned a current variable with an arbitrarily chosen reference direction. When the circuit is solved, the circuit element currents may have positive or negative values. A negative value means that the actual direction of current through that circuit element is opposite that of the chosen reference direction. In electronic circuits the reference current directions are usually chosen so that all currents flow toward ground. This often matches conventional current direction, because in many circuits the power supply voltage is positive with respect to ground.
 

BobTheKlown

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xLowEndx said:
When analyzing electrical circuits, the actual direction of current through a specific circuit element is usually unknown.
From HowStuffWorks Batteries:
Electrons collect on the negative terminal of the battery. If you connect a wire between the negative and positive terminals, the electrons will flow from the negative to the positive terminal as fast as they can (and wear out the battery very quickly -- this also tends to be dangerous, especially with large batteries, so it is not something you want to be doing). Normally, you connect some type of load to the battery using the wire.
 
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