As many of you are well aware, small resistances in temp control builds can make a huge difference. After a day with the Lemo on the SX Mini, I was noticing recurring "Dry coil" warnings, some of which could be resolved by a little twist of the Lemo on the 510 connector. But the problem not only kept coming back, my .07-.09 ish build was showing increasing resistance, from .22 to over .5ohm. On the ipv4, resistance would show .11 more often than not. With Kanthal or Nichrome, this .03 to .3 variation would not really matter, but to TC it is a death knell. The device will not be able to control temp even close to accurately as it should. As I began to investigate, going through the coil I had built, I also put it on my ohmmeter, only to be shocked to find it easily registered the build at much closer to the correct resistance...so I started to question the contact I was getting in the 510 connector.
Now, since the Lemo has an adjustable positive pin, this is where my next step was. But there is a problem. When I unscrewed the pin a little, it would tighten back down, putting me back at the .2 or higher resistance. This phenomena was only happening with the SX Mini M Class, the pin would stay out on the ipv4, therefore resulting in a little unhappiness with the M Class, but this issue isn't enough for me to consider the device in a negative way, it really is superb. As a way of comparison, the Lemo 2 does NOT have an adjsutible pin and it works fine on both devices. So how to fix this?
Start with one of these. Many of us have them lying around so unscrew both ends and remove the small black o rings.
The o rings are very small, but do fit very well on the positive pin of the Lemo.
Slip the o rings over the positive pin screw and reinstall. I used two and it seems to work fine. Three is too many, it results in too tight of a connection and some metal loss from the contact on the mod side will result. Here is a pic of the base of the Lemo with the pin screwed partially in.
Half of that is easily enough to make the appropriate contact.
With this adjustment, the M Class now registers the coil at the correct .08 Ohm for a 8 wrap 26 coil on a 3 mm mandrel. And it vapes like it should again. The Lemo is a terrific tank and performs very well with a nickel TC build, if they had only had fit the tank with a non-adjustable positive pin I would have never had this issue. Well, at least not with a device that had a shorter 510 than the M Class does.
Enjoy!
Now, since the Lemo has an adjustable positive pin, this is where my next step was. But there is a problem. When I unscrewed the pin a little, it would tighten back down, putting me back at the .2 or higher resistance. This phenomena was only happening with the SX Mini M Class, the pin would stay out on the ipv4, therefore resulting in a little unhappiness with the M Class, but this issue isn't enough for me to consider the device in a negative way, it really is superb. As a way of comparison, the Lemo 2 does NOT have an adjsutible pin and it works fine on both devices. So how to fix this?
Start with one of these. Many of us have them lying around so unscrew both ends and remove the small black o rings.
The o rings are very small, but do fit very well on the positive pin of the Lemo.
Slip the o rings over the positive pin screw and reinstall. I used two and it seems to work fine. Three is too many, it results in too tight of a connection and some metal loss from the contact on the mod side will result. Here is a pic of the base of the Lemo with the pin screwed partially in.
Half of that is easily enough to make the appropriate contact.
With this adjustment, the M Class now registers the coil at the correct .08 Ohm for a 8 wrap 26 coil on a 3 mm mandrel. And it vapes like it should again. The Lemo is a terrific tank and performs very well with a nickel TC build, if they had only had fit the tank with a non-adjustable positive pin I would have never had this issue. Well, at least not with a device that had a shorter 510 than the M Class does.
Enjoy!
