I tend to puff as well; the puff tells me how well my coil is performing, whether it is flooded, or maybe there's an electrical contact problem (once in a while my vamo shuts off apparently on it's own).
Using Watts instead of volts ?
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I tend to puff as well; the puff tells me how well my coil is performing, whether it is flooded, or maybe there's an electrical contact problem (once in a while my vamo shuts off apparently on it's own).
Good to know that's other double dippers out there
I'm thinking it's because I like to hear the pops? LOVE the pops!
I'm thinking it's because I like to hear the pops? LOVE the pops!
I love how we all vape in different ways, different styles. I don't think it would have ever caught on if there is only one way. That was one of the things I hated about the Blu, you had to draw at just the right rate in order to get anything out of it, and I had a hard time measuring my draw and keeping it consistent.
Good to know that's other double dippers out there
For some reason I always assumed you loved the peeps. My mistake
I'm a popping peeper LOL
Better that than a peeping popper, I'd say.
Oh they're gonna close this thread if we keep this up lol
Say that ten times fast!
Wait until the op comes back and sees I took over this thread!
Sorry about that
Wait until the op comes back and sees I took over this thread!
Sorry about that
You're doing it right, starting low and move up till you hit the sweet spot works for every device and topper, it's that simple. Those outdated charts just seem to confuse people. The number anyone vapes at is meaningless as long as they are getting a good vape whether it's 4 watts or 20. Can't really compare numbers as different builds, designs and even juices can require different power levels to hit the sweet spot and yes it's normal for many toppers to heat up when hitting them more often.
Use a dripping atomizer. 8 watts is quite low in my opinion. I crank up the voltage on the ProVari until it errors out and then back down one tenth.
Just started using the Janty MiD, thing is awesome, have it set to deliver 10 watts for three seconds, then ramp to 25 for two seconds, and then back down to 10 watts for another 5 seconds. Delightful, and on the stock cartomizer it came with, works sooo good!
I vape over 8 watts with everything I have. The Iclear 30s can certainly handle it, the protanks, i threw them very very far. The stock cartomizer that comes with the Janty Mid hits 25 watts with no burnt taste at all. Russian 91 never a problem. I just tried vaping at 8 watts lol, it's like there is nothing there. Personal preference plus devices. The Protanks just tasted like burn at 15 watts, and I did seriously open my door and throw them lol. Some hiker will find them some day and wonder, what the heck is this thing.
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Some things to remember!!!!
1. The charts were written as guides. They were based on the type of clearos / cartos available at the time. As many of you have found out, watts don't mean the same for every topper.
8 watts on a Kayfun barely gets it going. 8 watts on my Mini Protanks almost guaranteed burnt flavor. Why?? Because the Mini Protank uses microscopic wicks and have very high airflow which would limit the wicking ability of the wick that was there. Therefore the 8 watt coil would quickly dry out the coil.
On a kayfun, you have usually a tighter draw and massive wicks (compared to the Protank). Now more fluid can get to the head and the atty can keep up.
2. The charts were based on single head attys
Dual head attys hook their heads in parallel. In a parallel circuit the voltage drop across each leg is constant and the resistance in a parallell circuit is not additive. I'm not going into the math. But it works out that a dual head coil is actually made up of two heads in parallel that are twice the resistance of the overall resistance seen or printed on the head.
So a 1.9 dual ohm coil is actually made up of two 3.8 ohm coils connected in parallel. If I used a VW mod and set it to 6.0 watts, then it would calculate the voltage for 6 watts based on 1.9 ohms total resistance, but only 3 watts would go to each head. This is why you can run dual heads higher than single head equivalents.
3. Variable Voltage (VV) and Variable Wattage (VW) are two mutually exclusive ways to get to the same thing.
A variable voltage device simply delivers the voltage you dial in to the coil. It doesn't care what the coil resistance is. (some do, but for the purpose of this explanation it's not important). If you change to a different head, then you will need to change voltage to get the same wattage to the head that you did before. Variable Wattage devices will measure the head resistance and AUTOMATICALLY adjust the voltage to produce the selected wattage.
This seems cool. And if all you vape is the SAME type of atomizer (i.e. protanks, iClears, etc). then Variable Wattage can limit how much fidgeting you do on a device. If I put in a Protank with a 2.5 ohm coil and then swap it out with a Protank with a 1.8 ohm coil, a Variable Wattage device will allow me to set a preferred wattage and each protank should give me the same vape. With Variable Voltage, I'd need to adjust voltage between switching the two tanks.
However, if you vape DIFFERENT style tanks, then Variable Wattage gives you no advantage. As we discovered, 8 watts on a ProTank is miles away from 8 watts on a carto or 8 watts on a Kayfun. Thus the "set it an forget it" advantage of a VW device is removed.
Hope this clears some things up.
1. The charts were written as guides. They were based on the type of clearos / cartos available at the time. As many of you have found out, watts don't mean the same for every topper.
8 watts on a Kayfun barely gets it going. 8 watts on my Mini Protanks almost guaranteed burnt flavor. Why?? Because the Mini Protank uses microscopic wicks and have very high airflow which would limit the wicking ability of the wick that was there. Therefore the 8 watt coil would quickly dry out the coil.
On a kayfun, you have usually a tighter draw and massive wicks (compared to the Protank). Now more fluid can get to the head and the atty can keep up.
2. The charts were based on single head attys
Dual head attys hook their heads in parallel. In a parallel circuit the voltage drop across each leg is constant and the resistance in a parallell circuit is not additive. I'm not going into the math. But it works out that a dual head coil is actually made up of two heads in parallel that are twice the resistance of the overall resistance seen or printed on the head.
So a 1.9 dual ohm coil is actually made up of two 3.8 ohm coils connected in parallel. If I used a VW mod and set it to 6.0 watts, then it would calculate the voltage for 6 watts based on 1.9 ohms total resistance, but only 3 watts would go to each head. This is why you can run dual heads higher than single head equivalents.
3. Variable Voltage (VV) and Variable Wattage (VW) are two mutually exclusive ways to get to the same thing.
A variable voltage device simply delivers the voltage you dial in to the coil. It doesn't care what the coil resistance is. (some do, but for the purpose of this explanation it's not important). If you change to a different head, then you will need to change voltage to get the same wattage to the head that you did before. Variable Wattage devices will measure the head resistance and AUTOMATICALLY adjust the voltage to produce the selected wattage.
This seems cool. And if all you vape is the SAME type of atomizer (i.e. protanks, iClears, etc). then Variable Wattage can limit how much fidgeting you do on a device. If I put in a Protank with a 2.5 ohm coil and then swap it out with a Protank with a 1.8 ohm coil, a Variable Wattage device will allow me to set a preferred wattage and each protank should give me the same vape. With Variable Voltage, I'd need to adjust voltage between switching the two tanks.
However, if you vape DIFFERENT style tanks, then Variable Wattage gives you no advantage. As we discovered, 8 watts on a ProTank is miles away from 8 watts on a carto or 8 watts on a Kayfun. Thus the "set it an forget it" advantage of a VW device is removed.
Hope this clears some things up.
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So, with all the watts, volts, and heat, would everyone agree that we're very likely to end up with toppers leaking during the hot summer months whether it be from sitting at picnic or jumping into a hot car after work?
^ those.
that's it. no harder, no easier.
that's also why VV vs. VW is a ridiculous debate. if you have a pony in that race, it has lost it's way. period.
watts = the rate of speed an electron is flowing times the difference in charge state between the positive and negative terminals.
watts = amps X volts
watts = power
you need the resistance and physical properties of the component that power is applied to at the very minimum to determine heat applied. temperatures of everything around it and connected to it and how long (time) that power is applied and a lot of math would be needed to determine heat (temperature) according to applied power (watts).
for example, 1 horsepower equals 745.699872 Watts assuming 100% efficiency. what temperature does 745 horses make?
P.Opus
What you said about VW is what I was kinda thinking. It's a no fuss type deal if using the same atomizer and tanks. I'd rather fuss a little with wattage than voltage, at least if the wattage actually stays the same throughout the life of the battery charge. Different liquids need different amounts of heat but since watts actually generate the heat then it seems VW is the way to go.
What you said about VW is what I was kinda thinking. It's a no fuss type deal if using the same atomizer and tanks. I'd rather fuss a little with wattage than voltage, at least if the wattage actually stays the same throughout the life of the battery charge. Different liquids need different amounts of heat but since watts actually generate the heat then it seems VW is the way to go.
Keeping the power level the same throughout the life of the battery is the job of the regulator and some do it better than others. Whether it's adjusted by watts or volts doesn't have any effect on that.
watts DO NOT generate heat. resistance and current does. the resistance is in your coil and the current is dependent on that resistance and the voltage applied to it. temperature is then dependent on the size of the filament/coil and every other outside element that makes up the entirety of thermal dynamics.
watts settings simply read atomizer ohms and set voltage according to your wattage setting. it's not uncommon for wattage settings to be less accurate than voltage settings on the same device since you're relying on the device to do more to get to the same result.
but again. watts vs volts should have no place in a debate. if you use only one type of tank and change heads to a different resistance, then watts would get you almost identical results without adjusting. though, if you ever venture into rebuildables or change your topper, it's a moot point. you'll still have to adjust your settings just the same whether VV or VW.
watts settings simply read atomizer ohms and set voltage according to your wattage setting. it's not uncommon for wattage settings to be less accurate than voltage settings on the same device since you're relying on the device to do more to get to the same result.
but again. watts vs volts should have no place in a debate. if you use only one type of tank and change heads to a different resistance, then watts would get you almost identical results without adjusting. though, if you ever venture into rebuildables or change your topper, it's a moot point. you'll still have to adjust your settings just the same whether VV or VW.
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