V2 top ring removal

[Balders]

Has anyone managed to get the top ring off? The bit around the drip well.
I've tried wiggling it like in Ryan's Youtube video but to no avail.

I want to do this as removing/replacing AGAs has ruined the 510 connector. The AGA threads are sharp and the stainless is very hard (316 I think) & the brass connector is soft.
I'm not a happy bunny as only had the Vamo for about 2.5 months

 

[cigzag]

You could try wrapping a thin piece of rubber around it and then gently using a pair of channel lock pliers to "rock" the upper piece loose.

 

[Balders]

Tried that method, can't budge it. Will see if a colleague can pop it in a 3 jaw chuck

 

[Davenkay]

I was able to get mine loose with big vice grips. The 3 jaw chuck will work better though. When you get it off, feed the post up through the head until it clears. The white wire is plenty long enough. A #60 Danco o-ring will go around it and then it can be pushed back down. You can use any connector now and be able to tighten it down without ruining the tiny silicone ring.

 

[Balders]

Thanks for that Dave.
It's not the centre pin that's gone. The AGA T2s have worn the thread on the Vamo, badly machined & AGA-t's threads are only about 6.73mm. I think they missed out on QC (my old, original AGA, DCTs etc fit nicely)

I've found this thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...s-pics-tips-tricks-quirks-30.html#post8807925 where Ericska has had thread wear and repaired it. Looks like he's used a 510 to EGO connector

 

[Cheechako]

I took my Vamo V2 apart this afternoon to realign the window and buttons, used channel locks wrapped in
electrical tape. Gently wiggled it off, thought it would be harder...
Pulled the plastic half moon to remove board and buttons, corrected and reassembled.
Getting the buttons back in proved to be the pain in the a**!!
It did come off pretty easily and went back on with no further problems...

 

[Balders]

Update
Ended up chucking it in a lathe and swinging off it! Needed fly pressing back in.
I ordered 2 more, one comes off easily by hand - will either use Loctite bearing fit on it, or Shrink my Vamo with it
Machining on these things varies immensely.

 

[nahoku]

Update
Ended up chucking it in a lathe and swinging off it! Needed fly pressing back in.
I ordered 2 more, one comes off easily by hand - will either use Loctite bearing fit on it, or Shrink my Vamo with it
Machining on these things varies immensely.

Good job! Please post photos of your repair process so all of us without lathes can envy!

 

[Proetus]

Yes please do if you can! I'm afraid for the threads on my vamo! yes its failry cheap, but i would still not be pleased to have to set it aside due to crappy threading!

 

[pdxtechdoctor]

For the love of god my top cap is in there tight.. I've been working on it for over an hour with a pair of channel locks and it hasn't budged a bit. I do not have any access to a vice grip or anything like that. When I put the channel locks on I wrap twine around the handle to keep it closed.

The need is from the result of a protank head that the threads snapped off when trying to remove it. I have the threads out, by just pushing a paper towel to fill the connector and then gently twisting and the threads threaded out, but it it finally killed my center post and the wire is has now come loose and is stuck down the center.

Any advice on trying to make this thing come off? Anything inexpensive I can get to help get this thing off so I can re-solder the center pint?

 

[nahoku]

Wish I had read this earlier. I don't know what finish your Vamo has, but I had the hardest time getting my SS Vamo head off. I ended up using a piece of wood and hitting the head at an angle... sort of like a glancing blow to ease it out a little at a time. I did this all around the head, and then I took a thin metal spatula tool and slowly pried around the slot between the body and head to get the head off. It was still tough, (and slow) but I think the glancing blows helped a lot.

Did you ever manage to get it off?

 

[VClouds]

Haven't had to do this operation yet but expect I will someday.

Old trick from another project regarding getting the buttons back in. Get the buttons back in the hole while holding the tube level, button holes facing down. Then stick you finger in the tube to hold them in place a moment. Use a piece of scotch tape (or anything that's handy) to hold the buttons (and possibly the window) in place while you finish assembly.

This should make things much easier.

 

[Balders]

Nahoku, it's the SS version. But please see post #7 - yes I did get it off. It truly was a b4stard to get off. One of the others was just hand tight - no channel locks (water pump pliers) or Vice grips (mole grips) required.
I think it's tolerances on the tubes, not machining that varies

@ Vclouds, that'll prolly stop the rattly buttons too

I love the Vamo though. For 29.99USD (ss version) it laughs in the face of anything else! @ UK prices for a packet of tabs (£7.50), it's a disposable item if the thread wears out

I will be posting photos when I shrink it btw.

 

[nahoku]

Hey Balders...
Glad you got it off! Yah, my SS was tough, to say the least! All in a good days work though!

Vape on!

 

[nahoku]

Site posting things twice. Hmmm... I wonder how many times this edit will post. Guess we'll see!

Vape on!

 

[pdib]

Mine wouldn't come off either. (510 threads worn out). Tried the channel locks for quite some time. Ended up putting it in a bench vise (standing on it would work too) and tapping it off with a screwdriver and hammer. Came right off. (Like how you pop out a hinge pin from a door hinge).

 

[Spike64]

For the love of god my top cap is in there tight..

It's like mine is fused shut. It wont budge. I'm using pair of BF channel locks and a cloth to keep from marring the outside. I'm going to end up breaking it if I keep trying to open it. The reason I wanted to remove it is that the display isnt lined up straight and it's bugging me. I was hoping to get inside and try to line it up correctly. I guess I'll have to live with it. Kinda shoddy workmanship and poor QC to have the display sitting a bit crooked and slightly off to one side inside the unit. Very noticeable.

 

[pdxtechdoctor]

I need to get mine off as well to fix a broken wire to the center pin.. It seems like the are now gluing the top cap in like on the Zmax

There is a thread on the Zmax where they take a strong thing metal rod and push it through the bottom and tap it with a hammer to break the seal on the glue... I'm going to have to find someone with a vise to do something about mine

 

[Innocuous]

Perhaps waving a torch around the head and warming it - and the glue - would work?