Vamo delivering less power, is it dying?

Status
Not open for further replies.

michliu

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,418
2,585
Seattle, WA
I have a 6 month old Vamo that has started to give me weaker vapes over the last few days. It's not the batteries, and I've cleaned the 510 connector pin. But even at 15 watts on 1.5 ohm coils on a Protank and an Aga-T2, the vape is anemic. Is the circuitry dying? Possibly some other issue that I might fix? Thanks in advance for the suggestions.
 

Tommy Aces

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 28, 2013
287
327
Connecticut
I have a 6 month old Vamo that has started to give me weaker vapes over the last few days. It's not the batteries, and I've cleaned the 510 connector pin. But even at 15 watts on 1.5 ohm coils on a Protank and an Aga-T2, the vape is anemic. Is the circuitry dying? Possibly some other issue that I might fix? Thanks in advance for the suggestions.

You may want to clean inside the device, the positive battery connection, your spring, threads, and end cap.

Over time, between changing batteries numerous times and other factors, you'll end up with a buildup of "stuff" that will reduce the conductivity of the device. It's also worth cleaning your batteries from time to time to reduction the buildup of grime going in and out of your device/charger.

A few questions:

1. Which spring do you have in the VAMO, the small one, or the larger gold one?

2. Does the device still read the resistance of your cartos/clearos reasonably correctly? Like a 2.0 ohm carto measuring in the 1.8-2.2 neighborhood? (If you have a multimeter, you can even better guage the accuracy of the VAMO's resistance checking abilities)

3. What makes you sure that its not the batteries? Have you tried new ones vs old ones, ir is the assumption based on them being "fully charged" or the charge status the VAMO is telling you they're at?
 

michliu

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,418
2,585
Seattle, WA
You may want to clean inside the device, the positive battery connection, your spring, threads, and end cap.

Over time, between changing batteries numerous times and other factors, you'll end up with a buildup of "stuff" that will reduce the conductivity of the device. It's also worth cleaning your batteries from time to time to reduction the buildup of grime going in and out of your device/charger.

A few questions:

1. Which spring do you have in the VAMO, the small one, or the larger gold one?

2. Does the device still read the resistance of your cartos/clearos reasonably correctly? Like a 2.0 ohm carto measuring in the 1.8-2.2 neighborhood? (If you have a multimeter, you can even better guage the accuracy of the VAMO's resistance checking abilities)

3. What makes you sure that its not the batteries? Have you tried new ones vs old ones, ir is the assumption based on them being "fully charged" or the charge status the VAMO is telling you they're at?

Spring in it is the stock small steel one. I just tried a flashlight spring I had lying around and still weak. Is your thought here that the spring is losing tension and not pressing the battery hard enough to make a good connection?

It's definitely not the batteries, I have a load of other mods, and all the batteries are OK. And the Vamo is weak hitting with my different 18650's, 18350's, and 18350's stacked.

The ohm readings still check correctly on the Vamo, all within 0.1 ohms checked with multimeter, VV Gripper, Lavatube, Ovale V8, and Sigelei Zmax.
 

nahoku

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 5, 2013
554
291
Honolulu, Hawaii
I have a 6 month old Vamo that has started to give me weaker vapes over the last few days. It's not the batteries, and I've cleaned the 510 connector pin. But even at 15 watts on 1.5 ohm coils on a Protank and an Aga-T2, the vape is anemic. Is the circuitry dying? Possibly some other issue that I might fix? Thanks in advance for the suggestions.

Do you actually vape 15 watts with a 1.5 ohm coil, or was this just a test? Have you attempted to pull up the center pin to make sure you don't have a "high ohm" short of the pin to the Vamo body?
 

michliu

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,418
2,585
Seattle, WA
Do you actually vape 15 watts with a 1.5 ohm coil, or was this just a test? Have you attempted to pull up the center pin to make sure you don't have a "high ohm" short of the pin to the Vamo body?

I am usually at 11-12 watts on a coil with that high of a resistance, but I go to 15 Watts because the Vamo is hitting pretty weak. It's definitely not the atties, they work fine on my other mods. I'll tinker around with that center pin. I am about running out of ideas on what to try next with the mechanical pieces. If it's the electronics, it's off to the "stuff I'll raid later for parts" drawer in the garage.
 

nahoku

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 5, 2013
554
291
Honolulu, Hawaii
I am usually at 11-12 watts on a coil with that high of a resistance, but I go to 15 Watts because the Vamo is hitting pretty weak.
The Vamo electronics has no heatsinks onboard, so it could be possible yours is dying.

If it's the electronics, it's off to the "stuff I'll raid later for parts" drawer in the garage.
Yah, that's what I would do. I have one sitting in "my drawer" until I can machine a new 510 connector.

I assume you have tried it in VV mode?
 

michliu

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,418
2,585
Seattle, WA
I assume you have tried it in VV mode?

Brief excitement as I went to check in VV mode. Disappointment as this too failed. I think it's done. Thanks for all of your suggestions. In it goes with the all the crappy clearos, 2 lavatubes, and half a dozen dead atties. I knew there was a reason I got into mechanicals and rebuildables
 

nahoku

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 5, 2013
554
291
Honolulu, Hawaii
Brief excitement as I went to check in VV mode. Disappointment as this too failed. I think it's done. Thanks for all of your suggestions. In it goes with the all the crappy clearos, 2 lavatubes, and half a dozen dead atties. I knew there was a reason I got into mechanicals and rebuildables

Sorry to hear that.

Ok, last "man" attempt before putting it in the drawer :facepalm: ... give it a few whacks on the table to see if it might just be a cold solder joint. You might have to whack it a few times, in different spots and at different angles to "qualify" it as a "real" man attempt! :lol: If it starts working, you might be able to take it apart and repair it!

Sorry, I couldn't help myself... I do feel your pain, but I'm a man afterall! :)
 

nahoku

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 5, 2013
554
291
Honolulu, Hawaii
Off to the hardware store to try zippersnapper's suggestion. I'm a man and like to pretend to do man things, but this Vamo is hitting like a 10 year old girl.

Wait... from one man to another... before you go to the hardware store. If you have some old cartos, attys, clearos, or whatevers, you can take them apart and get some of these. They're closer to what's in the Vamo and will provide better isolation for the body of the center pin.

View attachment 208969
 

Tommy Aces

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 28, 2013
287
327
Connecticut
Spring in it is the stock small steel one. I just tried a flashlight spring I had lying around and still weak. Is your thought here that the spring is losing tension and not pressing the battery hard enough to make a good connection?

It's definitely not the batteries, I have a load of other mods, and all the batteries are OK. And the Vamo is weak hitting with my different 18650's, 18350's, and 18350's stacked.

The ohm readings still check correctly on the Vamo, all within 0.1 ohms checked with multimeter, VV Gripper, Lavatube, Ovale V8, and Sigelei Zmax.

Well, my thinking with regards to the spring was not so much battery connectivity, but that possibly the spring had lost some conductivity.

Anyhow, when it comes to all electronics, and especially ones with boost circuits and what are probably not premium circutry parts like the Vamo, ZMax, and the other 33.3htz China mods. There is a limited life span. At some point, a solder joint will go bad, or the board will fry.

6 months out of a single VAMO, especially a first run V1, is way more than I would have ever expected. If you can't find a relatively cheap, quick fix, just designate it for parts or a project to be named later.

However, if it interests you, I think KidneyPuncher sells the VAMO board for like $20 if you want to check that out.

Best of luck!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread