Vamo Shuts Off On It's Own & Poss Fixes

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Trayce

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Mar 28, 2013
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Just yesterday someone posted that their new V3 shut off and they couldn't turn it back on. Then magically later, it was able to be turned on.

I never heard of Vamos doing that, but that night I went to take a vape, and my V3 had turned itself off. 5-clicks and I was back in business. Thought it was strange, but forgot about it.

Then this afternoon, same thing. Took a vape, put it down.... typing typing typing... pick it back up and 'doh! It's off. 5-clicks and it's back on.

So Googled and found that Vamos (V2s too) turning off randomly have been an ongoing problem for some. If it happens occasionally, no big deal, but some people found it happening after every few vapes.

WHY IT HAPPENS

Just like a Windows problem, there can be many different reasons :D but these seem to be the top ones to eliminate or explore:

1. Older V2s had a weaker spring on the end cap which sometimes failed to keep the batt pushed up against the top contact. Some people stretched the spring so it would apply more pressure and make better contact (also gets rid of rattle) and others replaced the older style spring with the newer, stronger spring.

2. If the batt falls below 3.2v the Vamo is designed to prevent firing so the batt does not get over-depleted. Some people suggested even if a batt is at 3.4v or higher, a quick dip resulting from various circumstances could shut the Vamo down. Others say it only stops firing at 3.2v but won't shut off and that shouldn't be the cause. For whatever reasons some people notice it only happens when a batt is leaning toward 3.4v ... others said it happened at 3.6v.

In my case the first time it happened (using EFEST 18650 2000mah from RTD Vapor, 2 mo old), the batt was at 3.58v. Today when it happened it was shortly after putting a fresh batt in (not the same batt, but the same make/model/type purchased at the same time) and the batt was at 4.0v. In my case I think it has zero to do with the batts, and my spring is the new one [V3], and there is no rattle in my Vamo. It's got good contact.

3. (EDITED to add this): Forgot that many people suggested the old "ohms" fix... replacing the stock grommet or gasket that sits under the pin on the mod to raise it up some and keep it from dipping too low to make contact with the attached device. (I have never personally had this problem.) But the Vamo shouldn't turn off even with no device on it, so I don't see how this is a fix for the particular problem of the Vamo randomly shutting itself off.

4. A few folks on another forum said they saw an 02 code or "flashing" before it turned off. (I personally wasn't looking at my Vamo.) They dissected a V2 (GREAT PICS) http://allaboute-cigarettes.proboards.com/thread/22174/vamo-fault-code-top-overheating and found that the black, negative ground wire is attached to the top cap by a screw that has a plop of solder over it. The screw was loose and so the ground was intermittently losing connection. They cleaned up the screw/connection with good success. Others followed and many found their ground wires to be equally compromised in one way or another. This also reportedly fixed a problem where the top overheats when vaping, which has happened to me when chain vaping, but I thought it was b/c I was chain vaping... :D now I wonder if it's the neg ground wire. Regardless, AFAIC this seems to be the most promising culprit and fix, notwithstanding poor batt contact.

This topic was previously discussed at ECF here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/vamo/453585-vamo-turns-itself-off.html and here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/vamo/414602-vamo-shutting-itself-off.html .

I don't plan on taking my V3 apart unless this gets worse and starts happening all the time, or until I see someone else successfully take the V3 cap off. :D (So Vicflo if you are reading this, please remember to take pics when you take your V5 cap off again as it would be great to see pics of the ground wire in a V3-style top.)

Also one other interesting thing in the above linked threads... apparently the Vamo is made by more than one manufacturer and there was some conjecture as to the problematic ones being made by KSD/Rainbow but I didn't see the other manuf(s) mentioned by name... or missed it. And can't tell how you find out what manuf made your Vamo. There is nothing in my V3 'manual' as to the manuf, nothing stamped on the V3 itself, and no manuf listed on the Vamo's box. A "certificate" of quality control was included but no name.
 
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Trayce

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any advice on the best way to get the top cap off? tia

If you have a V2 there is a YouTube disassembly video but looking at your post count you probably already know that and have a V3 or V5 with the newer top. If so, unscrew the top collar off the Vamo then screw on one of the batt tube extensions there, and wiggle the top off. Vicflo did it with his V5 to put on a V2 head, and posted pics here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/vamo/484751-vamo-v5-v2-head-replacement.html

Hope that helps. :)
 

MarkyD

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Sep 26, 2013
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[EDIT] Ok thought this over some more and youre right, the negative to the whole circuit is completed by that one wire inside the top cap, so everything goes through that. Bet thats what it is. Opened mine up and it was fine, Im not sure how these are getting stressed and breaking unless its during assembly. Taking the thing apart the first time was not easy, its press-fit so tightly inside the control head. If you try it, be really patient and wiggle it a lot until it comes out. Its even more difficult pressing it back in. Wishing you lots of patience and luck if you try.
 
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Trayce

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Mar 28, 2013
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[EDIT] Ok thought this over some more and youre right, the negative to the whole circuit is completed by that one wire inside the top cap, so everything goes through that. Bet thats what it is. Opened mine up and it was fine,

Was it shutting off by itself? Is that why you opened it?

Im not sure how these are getting stressed and breaking unless its during assembly.

Since they are all hand assembled it's a pretty safe bet quality control is iffy. I would guess many are either loose from the start due to human error or not as tight as they should be so that just handling the Vamo over time worsens the condition. (Just smacking it around in your hand, taking batts in and out, etc, would tend to make something that isn't tight, looser over time.)

Taking the thing apart the first time was not easy, its press-fit so tightly inside the control head. If you try it, be really patient and wiggle it a lot until it comes out. Its even more difficult pressing it back in. Wishing you lots of patience and luck if you try.

Thanks for posting this... if I ever need to take mine apart I will keep it in mind!
 

boathook

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Oct 27, 2013
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I have another couple notes to add to the list of possible fixes. My fix for it was probably a little more extreme than what was necessary.

Basically, on the V1 and V2, the Ego/510 connector is pressed into the top cap. The top cap is pressed into the control head portion. Ground has to be maintained through both of these pressed connections, and mine was losing its conductivity where the Ego/510 touches the actual top cap. If I tilted the Ego/510 connector just right I could get it to work, but if I bumped it wrong or tried to move it so that it was vertically straight, the device would exhibit the issues you mentioned. (Powering off at random intervals)

My fix was as follows:
  1. Remove the top cap
  2. Use a press to get the Ego/510 connector out of the top cap
  3. Desolder the negative wire from the Ego/510 connector
  4. Snip the positive pin wire in the middle and remove the positive pin from the Ego/510 connector
  5. Use sandpaper or emery cloth on the inside of the top cap and the Ego/510 connector
  6. Use sandpaper or emery cloth on the inside of the control head and the lip of the top cap
  7. Put some silver solder flux on the Ego/510 connector or the inside of the top cap
  8. Put the Ego/510 connector back into the
  9. Heat up the Map torch and run a bead of silver solder between the Ego/510 connector and the top cap
  10. Solder the negative wire back on to the Ego/510 connector
  11. Re-install the positive pin and solder the positive wire back together
  12. Wrap some electrical tape or heatshrink around the positive joint
  13. Re-install the top cap onto the control head.

Since then I haven't had any issues as long as the battery is nicely charged. Once my 18350 hits about 3.4V it might shut off hitting a 1.2-Ohm coil on the 6V setting, but the 18650's seem to work fine down to ~3.2V

The torch didn't leave any marks or anything (chrome-finish Vamo) but I did get some scratches on the sides of the top cap from the vise. Should have been more careful.

Oh, don't try to use the torch on it with everything still connected. You'll melt your display window.

Also, if anyone has a spare display window, let me know and I'll give you money for it. :)
 
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