Vandy Vape MESH RDA

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Hightech Redneck

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TC solves the dry hit issue.
Potentially I agree.
But my question is would the tcr be different on mesh, given the large surface area etc....
For whatever reason I imagine a dual vertical build could use less cotton but then you have resistance issues. Possibly.
Just have to wait on design to catch up on the concept.
I am intrigued, just skeptical.
 

VapNMirrors

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Potentially I agree.
But my question is would the tcr be different on mesh, given the large surface area etc....
For whatever reason I imagine a dual vertical build could use less cotton but then you have resistance issues. Possibly.
Just have to wait on design to catch up on the concept.
I am intrigued, just skeptical.
TCR is a property of the metal/alloy, not the quantity used. TC on SS316 mesh should be no different than a coil or dual. The additional surface area means additional cooling and hence more power (and more vape) to maintain a given temp vs coils.
 

Ben85

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Ok, I have given up on the mesh. Not because of the quality of the vape, or the popping issue I had, but the incredibly unforgiving dry hits that I get unless I am dripping every couple of puffs. IMO, it's just not worth it.

Having said that, I am now REALLY enjoying this rda - but with a ss316 round wire, spaced build. Ahhhh, much better :)
 

VapNMirrors

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I cannot comment on your issue but am interested to see coil/wicking people are doing...
Don't have a pic but I roll up a strip of CBV2 pretty tight and clamped it down under the mesh. I do not advise using power mode but TC with the 316 is fricken awesome.
 

LilWhiteClouder

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Don't have a pic but I roll up a strip of CBV2 pretty tight and clamped it down under the mesh. I do not advise using power mode but TC with the 316 is fricken awesome.
Interesting. So, would conforming the mesh tightly around the wick prior to installation be a good idea?
 

LilWhiteClouder

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I screwed one side down, put in the wick and then the other side. The mesh is quite conformant on its own.

:) A Plus for it's simplicity. For some reason I cant stop thinking about how to make the coil more complicated.

Does it take much to ensure proper wicking? Or constant dripping as Ben85 mentions?
 

VapNMirrors

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The simplicity of mesh is pretty epic. I'm lazy and when a good RTA comes along my last days fooling with coils will be in site.

The huge roll of wick holds a lot of juice but unregulated power will dry it out fast and with dire consequences. I would advise dripping every vape if you long draw in power mode. I strongly advise against power mode.

The mesh heats fast and can easily exceed safe vaping temperatures. For example, I clean the mesh unwicked with 18W in power mode. It will be glowing in seconds (900F+). I vape it with 50-100J in TC.

Proper wicking is to ensure the entire mesh has contact with pressure against it. It's important to make sure the full area has contact so that there is uniform cooling. This gives the best resistance reads by the mod for TC.

TC gives control of the heat and the reactor this becomes within the wick. You can get a few monstrous draws and it'll taper down until it's dry. Also handy for rewicking (I removed one side). I take long draws and get a dozen or more regular vapes before it gets too wispy and I drip again.

I also found that dripping down the chimney hap hazardly can lead to juice rolling down one side and if inpatient can leave the other side dry. Be sure to uniformly saturate the wick or again face the consequences. Get it right and it's the next gen.
 

LilWhiteClouder

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The simplicity of mesh is pretty epic. I'm lazy and when a good RTA comes along my last days fooling with coils will be in site.

The huge roll of wick holds a lot of juice but unregulated power will dry it out fast and with dire consequences. I would advise dripping every vape if you long draw in power mode. I strongly advise against power mode.

The mesh heats fast and can easily exceed safe vaping temperatures. For example, I clean the mesh unwicked with 18W in power mode. It will be glowing in seconds (900F+). I vape it with 50-100J in TC.

Proper wicking is to ensure the entire mesh has contact with pressure against it. It's important to make sure the full area has contact so that there is uniform cooling. This gives the best resistance reads by the mod for TC.

TC gives control of the heat and the reactor this becomes within the wick. You can get a few monstrous draws and it'll taper down until it's dry. Also handy for rewicking (I removed one side). I take long draws and get a dozen or more regular vapes before it gets too wispy and I drip again.

I also found that dripping down the chimney hap hazardly can lead to juice rolling down one side and if inpatient can leave the other side dry. Be sure to uniformly saturate the wick or again face the consequences. Get it right and it's the next gen.
Awesome drill down. Actually tingles my Shinyitis a bit. Im now wondering would better airflow help?? A Topcap designed to allow air to travel more evenly across the entirety of the mesh.
 

VapNMirrors

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Awesome drill down. Actually tingles my Shinyitis a bit. Im now wondering would better airflow help?? A Topcap designed to allow air to travel more evenly across the entirety of the mesh.
Thanks Lil'. Air seems about right. Need to aim the slots of course. I'm sure it'll evolve 1000 ways from here.
 

Mattdogg

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I must have gotten beginners luck. I cut the mesh down a bit, came out to .22 ohms. Didn't pack the cotton in as tightly as suggested and saturated it real good, and I'm getting pretty decent hits over and over from the first saturation. Albeit I'm using it at only 50 watts with the SS319 mesh and some pretty strong tobacco blend. So far so good for me. If you have 30 bucks and change + shipping laying around, it's worth a try, quite the options for builds on this thing. I like the airflow and this my first Ultem dripper, so I must say I'm impressed.
 
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