Vapage Vmod XL Rba Squid Rda Bottom Feed Mod

[Jonathan]

fasttech has a squid clone that is screw together type, I'm pretty sure. I was gonna try a squid or something more low profile than this a7 next. Thought about a killer or a diver, they look awfully hard to build though. I hear the cups break easy. I used 450 mesh/3mm ekowool tubing for wick in this build w 5 wraps of .5x.1 kanthal ribbon. The flavor is great, but I think it'd be much better in a squid or something w less airspace inside. The upper 3/4 of the top cap is just unnecessary imo on this rda. I might make some sort of a delrin, flow-through plug to go in the top cap to improve it til I order another rda. Thanks again for the great thread, Eddie!

Edit: fasttech x1 and k6 are threaded cap, and airhole setup appears to be bottom feed friendly, if I'm not mistaken, the only thing either of these rdas need done is an airhole drilled in cap, much easier than down center pin

 

[EddieAdams]

The x1 is really big. You're looking for something in the 14-16mm tops diameter range. The a6 and v6 look alright...the igo s is another and now they have the low profile rm2 which has the screwed top cap. More money but, all the work is done.

 

[oaky]

EDDIE-I've had 2 VMODs for a while now and have read most of what's been posted on them.All the info has been a fantastic help,but becauase I was just learning to use a bottom feeder with cartos and attys I skipped over your threads unless you were posting in AG's,Fourthrok's or Smiley's threads and I always appreciated your comments there.I recently got a REO with RM2,and now want my VMODs to be able to use a RDA as well.I'm sure I'll be back to ask you questions after I get some 510-510 adapters and a collection of "O"-rings.Thanks ahead of time for all the work you and others have put into this thread and for keeping it alive.

 

[EddieAdams]

I'd read this thread through. My original O-ring set-up wasn't great. I think muzic had a better one in the later pages. Ideally for a O-ring you want something that is just wider than the chamber opening but, small enough to fit within the opening on the shell. Thin enough to allow the 510 connector to make contact. Thick enough to seal everything.
Because the vmod varies I can't tell you an exact size. I'm sorry. Ebay has them cheap though and you can get the right diameter just by measuring then buy varying thickness'

Thank you and enjoy!

Edit; it may have been ryedan not sure

 

[oaky]

Eddie, I read this whole thread and I realize that you didn't particularly like the RM2 on the VMODXL.Since I already had the VMODXL and the RM2 and didn't have a drill or dremel,I tried Ryedan's method from replies #29 and#31 and I have been real pleased with the results.The RM2 is real easy to build on and using several "o"rings I can pretty much use it without leaks.The main frustration is the fussiness each time you have to take it off and put it back on whenever you need to charge battery or fill bottle.Still worth it to be able to have a bottom feed RDA.

 

[EddieAdams]

Eddie, I read this whole thread and I realize that you didn't particularly like the RM2 on the VMODXL.Since I already had the VMODXL and the RM2 and didn't have a drill or dremel,I tried Ryedan's method from replies #29 and#31 and I have been real pleased with the results.The RM2 is real easy to build on and using several "o"rings I can pretty much use it without leaks.The main frustration is the fussiness each time you have to take it off and put it back on whenever you need to charge battery or fill bottle.Still worth it to be able to have a bottom feed RDA.

It's not necessarily I didn't like the rm2. At the time the rm2 only came with the lower section reduced to fit within the REO cup which looks disproportionate on a vmod Imho and wouldn't hold the vmod shell in place because the lower section fits within the opening. They now offer the low profile rm2 with full body. Which will look much nicer on a vmod AND more importantly hold the shell in place.

Are you using the low profile rm2?

It's a nice bfer atomizer. I don't like the placement of the feed hole on the bottom. I'd prefer it raised on one of the posts maybe to prevent any mixing of a dripped flavor different than the bottle.

$43 isn't cheap either. For less than half that you can buy a nice dripper and some needle bits and drill your own. I understand why it's$43 because modification isn't easy but, if you're a little mechanical....

I do really like the screwed top cap and the overall build quality of the rm2. Building is easy as are most drippers. It's well made.

The Igo line is pretty well made and just$6-9 on fasttech. So it really depends on what's worth it for you....

I'm glad the thread helped. Lots of good contributors. That is a bit of a PITA having to remove every time but, works out to about once a day. Worth dealing with to have a rba on there...

 

[oaky]

I'm using the milled RM2.It works well for me.The bottom of the milled part goes through the shell and seals against the "o"ring around the 510-510 adapter.I put a 1/2" 'o'ring around the base of the milled part to hold the shell in place.Again I thank all who contributed to this thread(especially those with pictures)for all the help they have been to me.I apoligize for not including pics my self but I am using a dial-up connect to the net and pics take forever.

 

[oaky]

Some follow-up.I have set the RM2 up with my VMOD twice.First time no leaks.this last time when I went to change bat I had liquid between shell and chasis.I guess I'm going to have to review some of the posts here again and play around with dfferant "o"ring sizes.

 

[EddieAdams]

Yeah, you'll get that from time to time but, careful over tightening the atomizer. Can shift the positive pin and shift the insulator gasket and end up with a short.