Vaporshark lipo DNA30 to DNA40 conversion

[Junny89]

awesome, so glad the new battery went in without a hitch...super simple, right!?

just put a regular non-lighted switch in there, dont like the light...stealth baby.

Yeaaa it was very simple. Hopefully should fix my issue
I noticed the battery i took out was exactly the same as the new one i put in, wasn't it meant to have more amps etc for the dna40 board?

I see what you mean, don't want no light showing when stealthing!

 

[jmarkus]

its the same exact battery from what i can tell, thats why i havent bothered to change out the one in my vsdna30(40), not until i notice a drop off in life. so far so good. the amps on the turnigy (and i assume the vs battery) seem to be plenty.

 

[Junny89]

its the same exact battery from what i can tell, thats why i havent bothered to change out the one in my vsdna30(40), not until i notice a drop off in life. so far so good. the amps on the turnigy (and i assume the vs battery) seem to be plenty.

Well atleast that's good then as i bought 5 of them batteries!!
Just waiting to get hold of the dna40 board so i can complete my package!

Just bought a joyetech egrip with the rba base. Now that's stealth!!!

 

[Junny89]

Well i finally got my dna 40 board today! Found a place that just got stock and bought it...shall play around with it later.

 

[Hammy75]

Well i finally got my dna 40 board today! Found a place that just got stock and bought it...shall play around with it later.

Good luck Junny! I just finished my DNA40 and it works great so far. I haven't tried the temp comtrol yet but have tomorrow off so I will play around with it then. Hopefully i have luck with the ni200 micro coil.

 

[Junny89]

Good luck Junny! I just finished my DNA40 and it works great so far. I haven't tried the temp comtrol yet but have tomorrow off so I will play around with it then. Hopefully i have luck with the ni200 micro coil.

Did you use your own box mod or use it in the VS lipo dna?

Thanks! As much as i want to do it asap i cant as I'm working all weekend!

 

[Hammy75]

Did you use your own box mod or use it in the VS lipo dna?

Thanks! As much as i want to do it asap i cant as I'm working all weekend!

I used the FT DIY Hana-a-like kit. Worked very well. Added a Varitube 510 and real C&K buttons. Works very well. It's a bit bigger then I like for taking to work but I have a Hana mini clone (18500) without a logo so I will be ordering another DNA40 for that. The clone chip in that is pure garbage. Gets the "too hot" message all the time. I haven't done a nickel build yet but will this week and see how the temp control works.

As for working with the DNA40 it's pretty simple if you take your time. The button pads are really close together so be careful to not bridge them when soldering. I am no pro but took my time and really enjoyed the project. Good luck and keep us posted.

Edit: forgot to mention use silicone coated wire. Way easier to work with. I used the regular wire provided with the kit for the buttons and the charger and it was a pain. Will be ordering the better wire for the mini.

 

[gray]

Well i finally got my dna 40 board today! Found a place that just got stock and bought it...shall play around with it later.

Cool, let us know how it goes. I have a couple of chips in myself. Should have both of the baby sharks done in a couple of days.

On a side note, has anyone used the MP Jet connectors? They should handle more current than the Deans.

 

[Junny89]

I used the FT DIY Hana-a-like kit. Worked very well. Added a Varitube 510 and real C&K buttons. Works very well. It's a bit bigger then I like for taking to work but I have a Hana mini clone (18500) without a logo so I will be ordering another DNA40 for that. The clone chip in that is pure garbage. Gets the "too hot" message all the time. I haven't done a nickel build yet but will this week and see how the temp control works.

As for working with the DNA40 it's pretty simple if you take your time. The button pads are really close together so be careful to not bridge them when soldering. I am no pro but took my time and really enjoyed the project. Good luck and keep us posted.

Edit: forgot to mention use silicone coated wire. Way easier to work with. I used the regular wire provided with the kit for the buttons and the charger and it was a pain. Will be ordering the better wire for the mini.

I just got the board on its own. Bought everything seperate as it's going in to vs dna30. So bought the recommended awg twisted wires.

Still not had time to even start on it. Looking in to try and getting the light to work on the switch. May have a solution for that but just seeing if it's viable or not.

On a side note, my new battery is playing up on me like the first one. I am now led to believe that the dna 30 chip inside is faulty. Time shall tell though when the new 40 goes in.

Will keep you all posted.

 

[Junny89]

Cool, let us know how it goes. I have a couple of chips in myself. Should have both of the baby sharks done in a couple of days.

On a side note, has anyone used the MP Jet connectors? They should handle more current than the Deans.

Let me know if you get the light on the switch to work and how you did it if you do.

Thanks

 

[gray]

It's a done deal for one of them. Needle files will come in handy to fit the chip. This reminded me of stuffing a tent back into the adolescent's sock that they come with. Not all that difficult.
I ended up installing a fatdaddy connector when I installed the chip. It required some clearancing of both case pieces.

I removed the led function permanently some time ago on this one. The button should complete two different circuits with four contact points on the board. One for the fire and one for the led. Both functions used a B - through the dna30 board. The B - is not tied into the fire circuit on the 40. You will need to find out which circuit controls the led with a continuity test on the multimeter. Sever the trace near the button. You can then solder your own lead directly on the button and run it back to B -. Be careful with the button and the botton board as a whole. None of it will handle heat very well. This is a good place to use a tiny amount of flux. I'm not doing the other vs just yet. I will check into this when I do.

 

[Junny89]

Thanks for the update. Good to see a successful result! How's the dna40 board for you? Enjoying it?

Well I asked the vendor i bought the dna40 board off and asked about the light thing and the reply was:

Wire the LED to the switch negative and then to the ground. This worked fine with kanthal etc but rubbish in TP mode.
To fix this, use a switching diode between the switch led negative and ground.

Now I'm unsure if this will work but worth a try. This make sense to anyone?

 

[gray]

Sure, I've been using the dna40 since the first batch. It works fantastic for me.

I have no idea what your vendor is talking about. Maybe they can draw a picture for us. The main thing to avoid is any voltage on the chip's fire circuit.

 

[drmarble]

In tp mode the voltage is very low while the current is high. With a kanthal build you have about 4-5 volts across it. You need a dropping resistor to avoid blowing up up the LED. The nickle coil will only have ~1.7 volts (30 watts, 0.1 ohm coil). No or a very small dropping resistor is required. You will need some sort of a switching diode for the led since the coil driving voltage can vary by so much.
Some of us just don't bother with the led. I know when I am firing and my finger is over the button so you can't see an LED. I'm just not fancy.

 

[gray]

That makes a little more sense. Why would you make it more complex and risk errors? In the original config the led circuit will only see B+ and B-.

And I'm with you on canning the led altogether. It just saps power underneath the silicone skin where I can't see it at all.

 

[Junny89]

That makes a little more sense. Why would you make it more complex and risk errors? In the original config the led circuit will only see B+ and B-.

And I'm with you on canning the led altogether. It just saps power underneath the silicone skin where I can't see it at all.

I think the vendor is saying what dr marble is saying. It still uses b+ and b- but needs the use of a switching diode for it to correctly work, given the voltage variances.

 

[gray]

If you are taking the voltage off of pin 8 it will be a variable negative voltage. What pin are they proposing to connect to where? None of it is a good idea to connect to pin 3 or 4 which which are tied into the switch/led board. Both circuits are tied together at switch ground on the 30 it appears. It all sounds like a bad idea if I'm reading it correctly.

 

[Junny89]

Spoke to VS they said it's impossible to do as evovle suggested i try them as evolve didn't know.


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[gray]

Well, I'm glad you've not cooked the chip Junny Do you have a meter to trace the button board as I've described earlier? If not, get one and get it done. A multimeter should be next to any soldering iron.

My previous posts need some clarification. The button board has a circuit for fire and secondary circuit for the led. They can and must be isolated for the 40 if you want the led circuit to work. As mentioned, they are tied together in the circuit traces at B- on the dna30 configuration.

I did learn through our conversations that pin 8 is a convenient place to pull B- for the led. Pin 7 is variable negative btw. My mistake.

 

[Junny89]

Haha noo I've just been super busy with work etc to even sit and look.
Yes i sure have a multi meter
What is it that i need to check?
I do have a few switching diodes on hand as i was told i needed one to get the light to work. Just not sure where to put it yet...

Was kinda put off since Vaporshark them selves say it's not possible, but i dont believe the person i was talking too. Had conversation in the past with him and he doesn't seem very educated to say the least.

Also still getting weak battery messages. I believe my dna 30 board is faulty. But not to worry as my 40 will be in soon!

Just out of curiosity can a person put a switch light on a 40 board? Or is it just not do-able in the VS dna30 box?
Reason i ask is I'm pretty sure I've seen a few box mods with light switches using TP mode.

Thanks for all the help!

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