Variable wattage/voltage mod from mechanical

[nkucz]

I currently have a Panzer Golden Army Mod Clone and a Little Boy rda Clone with a 0.2ohm dual coil build. I'm using a Orbtronic SX30 Battery.. So I believe I'm producing like 21 amps and 88 watts? I find that the VAPE temperature is fine however it produces TOO much vapor and I know I can just build a higher ohm build but find that inconvenient, so I have been contemplating switching to a eleaf istick 50W with a Marquis Clone (little boy leaks far too much to pocket it). The reason being I can switch between producing a lot of vapor and a smaller amount without switching coil build correct? However I really have no idea what ohms to build my coil at (I plan on doing single coil) or when to change wattage or voltage. Does wattage relate to vapor production and voltage vapor temperature? Will I be able to produce the same amount of vapor with the iStick as my current setup? Thanks in advanced!

 

[bwh79]

or when to change wattage or voltage. Does wattage relate to vapor production and voltage vapor temperature?

If you drive, it's kind of like the difference between manual and automatic transmission. In voltage mode, it's like a manual stick-shift. You set the voltage, and the device will apply that voltage regardless of coil resistance, so you will get varying power levels with each different coil you attach. Kind of like how when driving, you have to select a different gear depending on whether you're driving 25 mph, or 60 (i.e. you have to set a different voltage to get a satisfying vape depending on whether you're using .5-ohm coils or 2-ohms.)

In wattage mode, it's more like an automatic. In this mode, the device will read the resistance of the coil and adjust the voltage automatically, to apply the selected power level regardless of what coil is attached. Just like how in a car with automatic transmission, you don't have to worry about changing gears since the car does all that for you. From the driver's perspective, you just step on the gas and go (or, set the wattage and vape). All the tricky stuff is taken care of "under the hood," so you don't have to worry about it yourself.

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

Yes, with a fully charged battery and a 0.2 Ohm build you'd be drawing 21 amps of current and vaping at about 88 watts. Of course, under that much load, the battery voltage may drop when firing, and the voltage will drop as the battery charge is depleted. So you're probably vaping in the 60-80 watt range.

The iStick 50 Watt can produce a maximum of 50 watts on resistances as low as 0.2 Ohms. It doesn't care what the resistance is, as long as it's within the range the device can handle, you set the wattage you want and it figures out the correct voltage to put out to the atomizer. The iStick at full power would be similar to your current setup when the battery is getting really low.

As far as temperature, that's determined by a lot of factors, including coil design, wicking, airflow, and watts. Its my understanding more watts does make more vapor, assuming wicking and airflow keep enough juice and fresh air to the coil. If the wicking and airflow are insufficient for the wattage being applied, the coil will overheat and you can get dry hits.

 

[CoilinTrouble]

For hefty amounts of vapor and vv/vw comparable in performance to your mech you'll probably need a 100w device. Otherwise as ramshot said youll be vaping the equivalent of your mech with an almost dead battery...not very satisfying. Theres great 100w devices in similar price range to an istick, maybe u should check em out??

 

[nkucz]

Do you have any suggestions on 100w devices? I was also thinking of getting the 70w ipv mini 2 because I don't want it to be huge!

 

[nkucz]

Yes, with a fully charged battery and a 0.2 Ohm build you'd be drawing 21 amps of current and vaping at about 88 watts. Of course, under that much load, the battery voltage may drop when firing, and the voltage will drop as the battery charge is depleted. So you're probably vaping in the 60-80 watt range.

The iStick 50 Watt can produce a maximum of 50 watts on resistances as low as 0.2 Ohms. It doesn't care what the resistance is, as long as it's within the range the device can handle, you set the wattage you want and it figures out the correct voltage to put out to the atomizer. The iStick at full power would be similar to your current setup when the battery is getting really low.

As far as temperature, that's determined by a lot of factors, including coil design, wicking, airflow, and watts. Its my understanding more watts does make more vapor, assuming wicking and airflow keep enough juice and fresh air to the coil. If the wicking and airflow are insufficient for the wattage being applied, the coil will overheat and you can get dry hits.

Wow thank you so much for the help!!!! Very informative

 

[nkucz]

If you drive, it's kind of like the difference between manual and automatic transmission. In voltage mode, it's like a manual stick-shift. You set the voltage, and the device will apply that voltage regardless of coil resistance, so you will get varying power levels with each different coil you attach. Kind of like how when driving, you have to select a different gear depending on whether you're driving 25 mph, or 60 (i.e. you have to set a different voltage to get a satisfying vape depending on whether you're using .5-ohm coils or 2-ohms.)

In wattage mode, it's more like an automatic. In this mode, the device will read the resistance of the coil and adjust the voltage automatically, to apply the selected power level regardless of what coil is attached. Just like how in a car with automatic transmission, you don't have to worry about changing gears since the car does all that for you. From the driver's perspective, you just step on the gas and go (or, set the wattage and vape). All the tricky stuff is taken care of "under the hood," so you don't have to worry about it yourself.

Awesome analogy really helpful! Thanks!

 

[mcclintock]

Take out a coil, maybe?

Reducing power will reduce vapor, but also temperature, both how hard the juice is cooked and the exit temp. On the low end there won't be full flavor, just above where the vapor drops off sharply (if it can be adjusted that low). Heat-up time will increase and variation of heat will be more noticeable. It completely varies vapor amount, and yet isn't the best way to do that.