Vivi Nova Question

[nnote]

Well, nnote posted that vaping at higher volts is some image/ego thing. For those who don't have a vv or a vivi yet, the volt range affects the heat of the vapor. So it's not all the same. I use a 2.4 head because I like the temp at 3.7-8 or so... other people like the hotter juice and draw of higher volts. So it's not all the same or all about the power/amps being equal. I hate hot higher volt juice or cooler lower volt juice. There's a big heat/taste difference even with a 2.8 head at 4.0 v, 4.2 v or 4.6 v. So I'm sure at 6v it's pretty hot vape for those that like it...

IMHO it is the same, if 2.4 ohms at 3.8 volts (6 watts) is what you like then a 6ohm head at 6 watts gives you six watts also... The same vape. People saying they like vaping at higher wats is meaningless, because then they say oh I'm using a higher ohm atty...
Yes, there's a bigger heat difference at 4.0 4.2 and 4.6 volts at 2.8 ohms, but you can get that same difference using a lower ohm at a lower volt range. This is just a 'bigger is better' mentality.
I'd rather aim for low ohms and lower volts, preserving my battery life and I still get the same cooler or hotter vape by changing ohms.

 

[nnote]

Ok, sacrificed a new 2.8 ohm head (no problem, I'll recoil it anyway). Pictures below. Sorry, just one piece of resistance wire.

View attachment 124158
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Flyer, the v2.5 2.8 coil has about 8 wraps, and about 4 mm of the end of the coil is tacked silver NR leads.

 

[AttyPops]

IMHO it is the same, if 2.4 ohms at 3.8 volts (6 watts) is what you like then a 6ohm head at 6 watts gives you six watts also... The same vape. People saying they like vaping at higher wats is meaningless, because then they say oh I'm using a higher ohm atty...
Yes, there's a bigger heat difference at 4.0 4.2 and 4.6 volts at 2.8 ohms, but you can get that same difference using a lower ohm at a lower volt range. This is just a 'bigger is better' mentality.
I'd rather aim for low ohms and lower volts, preserving my battery life and I still get the same cooler or hotter vape by changing ohms.

1) Generally, battery life is better at higher voltages if using stacked cells. (that's why people get 220 service installed for Air conditioners and such).
2) It's not the same. Watts = Watts, but surface area of the coil matters and it differs between high and low.
3) Vaping is cool... it supports to each their own. I can say that 5v vaping kept me off cigs. Hits like a cig. More "oomph", no "long slow" draws. About 8 watts... but with oomph.

 

[Flyer]

Flyer, the v2.5 2.8 coil has about 8 wraps, and about 4 mm of the end of the coil is tacked silver NR leads.

Nope, not mine...as you can see in my pictures.

 

[AttyPops]

Nope, not mine...as you can see in my pictures.

Obviously different versions/models on the market....

Your versions are the 2.5 flyer?

 

[Flyer]

Obviously different versions/models on the market....

Your versions are the 2.5 flyer?

I believe so. Long wicks, from GotVapes.

 

[Kahuna]

Mine is in the mail (new). So... nothing happened yet! Just planning on points of failure....spare parts, whatever. If I like it I'll probably pick up a 2nd unit for spare parts. At that cost, it's not a big deal. But I'd rather just buy the 50 cent washer. I did order a metal tank to replace the plastic one if it breaks.

well, on my first coil rebuild, I lost the rubber "washer" thing. but I remembered that my burned out CE2s used the same rubber gasket on the center pole. So on a burned out CE2, pull off the ceramic cup, scrape off the solder along the side, and push it out. You will find the exact rubber washer/gasket.

Infact, in a pinch, a cut down CE2 pole works in a vivi nova. It's just that the airhole in the CE2 is straight down the middle where the novas air hole is a tiny hole on the side of the post. I even used the o-ring from a CE2 (around the base where the tube touches the base) to replace the o-ring around the base of the threads of a nova head. The burned out wicks also are the right size for the novas. i cut off the the burned coil part (so you have two wicks), hit them with a torch until they are pearly white. i always use dual wicks in my novas, it gives unbelievable vapor at any voltage!! And if you are really frugal, you can salvage the resistance and non resistance wire as well.

So basically if you save all your burned out CE2s like I do, you have a wealth of spare bits for nova heads: wicks, coil, gaskets, o-rings, and center post/air stem. cheers.

 

[ratpack7]

P.S.

As long as we're on the topic... anyone know if they sell either replacement silicone washers or replacement center posts? And yes, I know you can get the whole thing < $15.00. Just ask'n.

they have them here 510 Threaded Connector Insulators - Avid Vaper

 

[ratpack7]

you'll see that there are tiny non resistant leads on the feet of the coil, which unless your a microsurgeon is impossible to re-create when rebuilding the heads, which can lead to burning the rubber grommet at the bottom.

I would love to pictures of this. I've been rebuilding the Vivi Nova heads for over a couple months now (rotating among 12 heads) and have never seen anything but one continuous piece of resistance wire used. I do the same when I recoil.

I never thought about it until now but you could Tin (coating with solder) the legs with silver solder.

 

[cryfreedom66]

Wow, I vape with the 2.8 head on 3.7 volts and it still gets too hot sometimes! (I chain-vape.) Any hotter and the flavor goes away.

But I'm getting leaking if I ever set the thing down. I even get the occasional leak on a ce3. And on stardust-style clearos, LOTS of leakage.
And some burning and dry hits on a tank with 2.6-ohm cartos.

When it doesn't leak or get too hot the ViVi and the Ce3's are competing for favorite with me, but I'd sure like something that "just works."
Am I screwing things on too tightly? Too loosely? Does everybody but me buy a mini-umbrella stand to put their vivi into when they want to type?

Also, does anybody use food-grade turkey-sewing twine for wicking? I keep reading about how people have to boil their yarn because it is not food-grade. Just wondered if there's a problem with starting with food-grade to begin with.

Where is your tank leaking? Make sure you have the silicone cap on, otherwise the juice will go right down through the battery connector if tipped (i forgot to put mine on at first) also I got a black aluminum tank that leaks through the thread (contacted customer support for a replacement, response I got was "uh ya idk what the problem is, gotta be careful when threading ). Are you filling the tank all the way up? Ive noticed performance suffers if it gets below 1.4ml-not too bad but definitely a dryer hit than full. Also make sure you tip and roll from time to time to wet the wicks!

 

[Berylanna]

Where is your tank leaking? Make sure you have the silicone cap on, otherwise the juice will go right down through the battery connector if tipped

It leaks onto the battery. I should mention I am using an 808-510 adaptor, but my other leaks (CE3's, clearos) are NOT with adaptors. And that means more parts to clean

Now that you mention it, it looks like the center post might not be 100% centered, but it has been centered the other times. Cap is on. For this head, I doubt I ever took it off, since I tried 2.4 first, so no curiosity this time around.

gotta be careful when threading ).

I hate how fussy the threading is, but I have not messed mine up yet. YET.

Are you filling the tank all the way up? Ive noticed performance suffers if it gets below 1.4ml-not too bad but definitely a dryer hit than full. Also make sure you tip and roll from time to time to wet the wicks!

Tip-and roll I'm doing, but I don't keep the tank full, I thought vaping down a flavor was part of the point. I just looked at mine and it is JUST below 1.4, which means yeah that might be the hotter hits with less flavor, but it was leaking at a variety of fullnesses.

 

[cryfreedom66]

Tip-and roll I'm doing, but I don't keep the tank full, I thought vaping down a flavor was part of the point. I just looked at mine and it is JUST below 1.4, which means yeah that might be the hotter hits with less flavor, but it was leaking at a variety of fullnesses.

Another thing you may want to make sure the silicone cap is not pinching the wicks at all, ive read of this happening to people (although it hasnt happened on mine), I also took off my cap and used a paper clip to push back the protective ring around the coil (its like a meshy type ring that goes around the outside) just to make sure that wasnt pinching either...just a thought.

 

[AttyPops]

I'll add that the silicone cap may have a "right side up" vs "upside down" thing going on. So... if it isn't working... flip it. The little metal washer might be offset from center... thus allowing more flow to center tube (and leaking out the bottom as a result). Of course, check threads too.

 

[cryfreedom66]

I'll add that the silicone cap may have a "right side up" vs "upside down" thing going on. So... if it isn't working... flip it. The little metal washer might be offset from center... thus allowing more flow to center tube (and leaking out the bottom as a result). Of course, check threads too.

on this same note...the correct way is to have the flat side of the metal washer facing down.

 

[AttyPops]

Good one cryfreedom66! Yeah... I just looked at a new clean head. Duplicate to stress the point: THE FLAT SIDE GOES DOWN TOWARD THE COIL! Important.

I don't know if it's possible, but if you put the little rubber gasket on the other way... could it short the coil? So use caution!!!! (It may not be possible though, IDK).

EDIT: Doesn't look like it could. The diameter is too large, and the taper is on the inside. So if it was upside down, it'd be OK from a short standpoint.

 

[AttyPops]

Does that taper make it a dripping atty too? Anyone drip with these, even though it's a tank?

 

[Flyer]

Does that taper make it a dripping atty too? Anyone drip with these, even though it's a tank?

I don't think so. But, it does allow you to push the little silicon (?) sleeve in the stock drip tip down making a seal to draw air more directly through the coli.

 

[nnote]

If you get leaking on the battery, juice is going down the center posts. After you put the cap on your tank, look into it and see if there's any gap between the hole in the cap and the condemn.
I have a mix of v1 and v2.5 tanks, and put the v2.5 heads on the v1 tanks. Their a hair shorter, so what I do is take a condemn from one of those horrible dead stardusts I have and put it on, since its a hair longer then the nova condemn.

 

[jimbill]

they have them here 510 Threaded Connector Insulators - Avid Vaper

Has anyone tryed this?sounds like a great idea i wounder how it compares to twisting nr wire to just tinning with silver solder. sorry wrong quote but from post#49

 

[reflogsdrawkcab]

i really love the CE style of wick and coil, so i ordered the vivi with some extra 3.2 heads for use on my V6.. since the v6 is a limited 3 select voltage unit, i wanted to get something that would be similar to my sub tank and boge 3.0 set up.. i was pretty disappointed in the result. even on the lowest 4v setting, every other hit was burnt and harsh... i put the vivi and 3.2 head on my twist and found the highest volt the head would take without burning was 3.6v-ish.. total bummer since my V6 doesnt have a setting under 4v .. i think the vivi looks kinda silly on the ego, so now im looking for a 3.7 device (preferably mechanical) so i can use my vivi.. dangit..