A big THANK YOU to all who contributed to this thread. Though i'm not ready to rebuild Vivi Novas yet, when the time comes, i know where to go if i can't remember.
Vivi Nova Rebuild tutorial
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I have rebuilt my novas enough times I now have a fool proof method for cotton that will put any other wick material to shame. I am still using the same mod and method as before just with a more perfected calibration of measuerments than before through trial and error. No break in period, the first pull off of the new wick/coil taste clean with no cotton or singed cotton at all.
Measurements:
Bored hole in head: 4mm
Width of cheese cloth: 12mm (after rolled into wick: 2mm diameter)
It is very important you let your new wick soak for 2 hours without using. This lets the cotton absorb and expand so it performs clean without any break in period of use.
This coil came out 5 tight wraps and 1.9 ohms with 33 Awg kanthal (33 awg works best for this application method). Wrap coils tight and as close together as possible so they appear to be touching (it will not short unless you overlap the wires).
Boring the bottom slot to a 4mm hole is extremely important. Without enough room for cotton expansion your wick will choke before even reaching the coil. You want a little extra space even after the expansion, this is where the fluffing becomes important as well so you have no leaks.
No need to double twist legs or use non resistant wire as 33 awg kanthal stays cool with the wetness of this setup.
Now after all this, fluffy rich thick tastey vapor and the first hit will be as deliscious as the last
Measurements:
Bored hole in head: 4mm
Width of cheese cloth: 12mm (after rolled into wick: 2mm diameter)
It is very important you let your new wick soak for 2 hours without using. This lets the cotton absorb and expand so it performs clean without any break in period of use.
This coil came out 5 tight wraps and 1.9 ohms with 33 Awg kanthal (33 awg works best for this application method). Wrap coils tight and as close together as possible so they appear to be touching (it will not short unless you overlap the wires).
Boring the bottom slot to a 4mm hole is extremely important. Without enough room for cotton expansion your wick will choke before even reaching the coil. You want a little extra space even after the expansion, this is where the fluffing becomes important as well so you have no leaks.
No need to double twist legs or use non resistant wire as 33 awg kanthal stays cool with the wetness of this setup.
Now after all this, fluffy rich thick tastey vapor and the first hit will be as deliscious as the last
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This has certainly been an interesting read the past 5 hours. Unfortunately for me it seems the more I read the more my comprehension slipped 
. I have the mechanics down it's just some of the more technical stuff seems to be going over my head. So am I correct in assuming the general consensus is the wires in the coil can touch just not overlap? Also what I still can't figure out is what gauge of say Kanthal A1 I would want for 1.8-2.0 ohms, I know the length plays a part, I just don't seem to get it.
Im certainly not giving up, this thread has been great and very educational, I went ahead and ordered a Vision Mini Nova and maybe tomorrow I'll get some wire if I can figure out what gauge and decide on a wicking medium.. Any help with the wire would be greatly appreciated and thanks again to all the awesome contributors in here.
. I have the mechanics down it's just some of the more technical stuff seems to be going over my head. So am I correct in assuming the general consensus is the wires in the coil can touch just not overlap? Also what I still can't figure out is what gauge of say Kanthal A1 I would want for 1.8-2.0 ohms, I know the length plays a part, I just don't seem to get it.Im certainly not giving up, this thread has been great and very educational, I went ahead and ordered a Vision Mini Nova and maybe tomorrow I'll get some wire if I can figure out what gauge and decide on a wicking medium.. Any help with the wire would be greatly appreciated and thanks again to all the awesome contributors in here.
Nice set up & pix nahuelarg86 one day I shall try bamboo.
Endor excellent break down, I like when a set up is consistently repeatable for m
too 
I dittoE that, this thread is trove of Vivi & vapor related knowledge. Thanks to all whom teach & show as well as those whom watch & learn.
xMackx awesome layout images & tut explanation. I like to use a hollowed out pen & low volts to tease my cotton into submission
. I do that for a bit & once the coils are getting sticky I cap, I must admit I sample a hit & then let it sit for a bit.(I B a rhyMIST too
)
I have a new Vivi mod that is out of this world! It used the big CE2/stone ceramic placed high. The vapor is warm & pleasantly not hot, due to a heat sink effect. It is fully slip connect, but it does require some simple splices to some low/non resistance wire. It vapes different than anything I have vaped. I am digging the flavors of my new DIY,
but I the the new ceramic mod contributes to flavor, I guess due maybe to the close proximity of coil/vapors to taste buds. I have a few kinks to work out & will try to do a video tutorial if the second build goes OK.
The new ceramic mod can be seen briefly in the following video.
Endor excellent break down, I like when a set up is consistently repeatable for m
I dittoE that, this thread is trove of Vivi & vapor related knowledge. Thanks to all whom teach & show as well as those whom watch & learn.
xMackx awesome layout images & tut explanation. I like to use a hollowed out pen & low volts to tease my cotton into submission
. I do that for a bit & once the coils are getting sticky I cap, I must admit I sample a hit & then let it sit for a bit.(I B a rhyMIST too) I have a new Vivi mod that is out of this world! It used the big CE2/stone ceramic placed high. The vapor is warm & pleasantly not hot, due to a heat sink effect. It is fully slip connect, but it does require some simple splices to some low/non resistance wire. It vapes different than anything I have vaped. I am digging the flavors of my new DIY,
but I the the new ceramic mod contributes to flavor, I guess due maybe to the close proximity of coil/vapors to taste buds. I have a few kinks to work out & will try to do a video tutorial if the second build goes OK.
The new ceramic mod can be seen briefly in the following video.
This has certainly been an interesting read the past 5 hours. Unfortunately for me it seems the more I read the more my comprehension slipped
Im certainly not giving up, this thread has been great and very educational, I went ahead and ordered a Vision Mini Nova and maybe tomorrow I'll get some wire if I can figure out what gauge and decide on a wicking medium.. Any help with the wire would be greatly appreciated and thanks again to all the awesome contributors in here.
I have a bunch of different awg/gauge kanthal and nichrome and the best all around wire for my mini nova's has been 33 awg kanthal. You should get a cheap multimeter to read your ohms. Also the smaller/thinner the wire the higher the ohms per inch, and like with guns the lower the number the bigger/thicker the wire is. The longer wire you use the more ohms basically, and 33 awg seems perfect for the nova because you can wrap tight small coils which is a big advantage when rebuilding a vivi nova head (small space).
Something I've found with my stock Vivi Novas is that if you un-twist the ends of the wicks so that about the last 1/4" is frayed and fluffy, they will wick a LOT better, and almost never give dry hits. I think that by opening up the ends of the wicks like this creates more surface area for the liquid to absorb onto, and helps facilitate more effective and efficient wicking.
I don't know if anyone has suggested this before in this thread, but I've not seen anyone else doing this on the forum, so I thought I'd throw it out there for people to try. It might help with these rebuilds too, even if you are not using silica wicks. It would definitely work with cotton, hemp, or synthetic wicks, but I don't think it is practical (or even beneficial) with steel mesh...
I don't know if anyone has suggested this before in this thread, but I've not seen anyone else doing this on the forum, so I thought I'd throw it out there for people to try. It might help with these rebuilds too, even if you are not using silica wicks. It would definitely work with cotton, hemp, or synthetic wicks, but I don't think it is practical (or even beneficial) with steel mesh...
I did a picture tutorial with most of what you're asking page 63 above. A lot of ppl like to use 34 awg for the same reasons I use 33, but ohms are a little too high for me with 34.
Nice set up & pix nahuelarg86 one day I shall try bamboo.
Endor excellent break down, I like when a set up is consistently repeatable for mtoo
I dittoE that, this thread is trove of Vivi & vapor related knowledge. Thanks to all whom teach & show as well as those whom watch & learn.
xMackx awesome layout images & tut explanation. I like to use a hollowed out pen & low volts to tease my cotton into submission
I have a new Vivi mod that is out of this world! It used the big CE2/stone ceramic placed high. The vapor is warm & pleasantly not hot, due to a heat sink effect. It is fully slip connect, but it does require some simple splices to some low/non resistance wire. It vapes different than anything I have vaped. I am digging the flavors of my new DIY,
but I the the new ceramic mod contributes to flavor, I guess due maybe to the close proximity of coil/vapors to taste buds. I have a few kinks to work out & will try to do a video tutorial if the second build goes OK.
The new ceramic mod can be seen briefly in the following video.
That's just crazy / nutz / over-the-top!!! Now can it be miniaturized and batt operated for pocket carry?
This has certainly been an interesting read the past 5 hours. Unfortunately for me it seems the more I read the more my comprehension slipped
Im certainly not giving up, this thread has been great and very educational, I went ahead and ordered a Vision Mini Nova and maybe tomorrow I'll get some wire if I can figure out what gauge and decide on a wicking medium.. Any help with the wire would be greatly appreciated and thanks again to all the awesome contributors in here.
This chart will give you what you need to know about ohms per in of the various AWG resistance wire along with the diameter of each size.
Resistance Wire (ohms/in)
Errol
What is the best material for the thread as far as wicking and flavor are concerned?
That is a personal preference question, but most will say cotton or stainless steel mesh tastes best. If you are which is the most absorbent, cotton would get the vote. If you are talking about which is most heat resistant stainless steel mesh would get the vote. For ease of use, silica would get the vote.
For me, my favorite is cotton. It is finicky, but after you figure out everything it has an amazingly clean flavor and very absorbent vapor production.
Every wick material has its pros and cons, and the preference of which a person likes best is based on their skill for using said material. The main thing that turns people off of using cotton is if it's done incorrectly there will be a singed cotton flavor. The main thing that turns people off of using stainless steel mesh is electrical problems (shorts). Yet when done correctly they both taste wonderful.
IMO overlap is near impossible with the micro sized "Spin E" coil. Overlapping coils can = possible serious hard short danger. 1 Adjacent coil touching the next is likely to cause a more minor short than a hard short.[if you have 4/5 wraps or more.]{ some vapers use low low ohms & 2/3 wraps & adjacent coils touching would I imagine cause a hard short on those.} There is no real answer, but to use common sense made from logic & experience. It will all likely soon fall into place for you because you are asking ?s(a good thing) I know I shall always envy guys like gdeal because words are hard for m
MikeE3 I wish it was pocket sized because
xMackx had it right to a small degree with.
The bouquet that blooms from it & my new E-dragon-venom-potion-compound-E mix made for quite the air freshener during the tests & a few stick my head over the vortex vapes sent m
[seriously it was quite fragrant]DrewGrimey I was going to say something but...
What gauge and how many wraps for a 1.8 ohm reading?
What gauge and how many wraps for a 2.4 ohm reading?
What gauge and how many wraps for a 2.8 ohm reading?
So close to starting this as my project with using the SS mesh style wick but I'm just trying to figure out how the different gauges and wraps change Ohm readings, the chart was a little confusing for me so a general estimate would help me out alot, thanks.
What gauge and how many wraps for a 2.4 ohm reading?
What gauge and how many wraps for a 2.8 ohm reading?
So close to starting this as my project with using the SS mesh style wick but I'm just trying to figure out how the different gauges and wraps change Ohm readings, the chart was a little confusing for me so a general estimate would help me out alot, thanks.
Unfortunately this is an extremely difficult question to answer. Depending on the thickness of your wick and the type/gauge of resistance wire you use, 4/5 wraps could be 2.5 ohms on a 2mm wick, but would be 3+ ohms on a 3mm wick. You'd have to get a multimeter to determine what resistance you want, and once it's wrapped, you'll have a better idea what to shoot for in the future.
I think you are looking at it a little wrong. I'll try to help.
The thinner the wire the higher the ohm's per foot. Has everything to do with the length of wire used in making your coil, more wire used the higher the ohms. The only reason more wraps make higher ohm's is more wraps equals longer wire used.
Now gauge numbers, the higher the number the thinner the wire. So 34 awg is a thinner wire than 32 awg.
So lets say you are using 33 awg kanthal. Each foot of wire equals 17.6 ohm's, divide that by 12= 1.46 ohm's per inch. Now if you want a 1.8ohm coil... 1.8 divide by 1.46= 1.23 inches of 33 awg kanthal to make a 1.8ohm coil.
2.4 divide by 1.46= 1.64 inches of 33awg kanthal
2.8 divide by 1.46= 1.91 inches of 33awg kanthal
So you see, has nothing to do with how many wraps and everything to do with length of wire. The only reason more wraps equals higher ohm's is because more wraps equals longer wire used.
Thank you for the responses. The best price for Kanthal wire on ebay at the moment is for the 30awg wire. Can I get away with using that? I know you can't give me an exact answer, but on average, will 30 allow me to be between 2.0-3.0 ohms?
Plus I heard thicker wire is more durable, better TH, vapor and taste
according to the formula for the 30awg wire, 2.8 divide by .72 = 3.88 inches of wire.
Is that too much wire? meaning, will I be able to fit 3.8 inches of wire in the head/coil?
Plus I heard thicker wire is more durable, better TH, vapor and taste
according to the formula for the 30awg wire, 2.8 divide by .72 = 3.88 inches of wire.
Is that too much wire? meaning, will I be able to fit 3.8 inches of wire in the head/coil?
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I recoiled my VN with 30 g kanthal this morning. I am at 1.5 ohms but have got them as high as 2.4 wrapping around a couple of toothpicks 4-5 times. There isn't a lot of room in the VN head.
Since you're going to be using the vivi nova I would suggest at least using 32 awg. There isn't much space to work with in a vivi nova atty so smaller gauge is easier, I use 33 awg because of that reason. The price range isn't much of a difference really, so I'd spend the extra couple bucks and go with 32 or 33.
Also I would recommend not starting with ss mesh as you're more likely to short out especially if you don't have short circuit protection. I would start off with cotton or silica.
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