Vivi Nova Rebuild tutorial

[xMackx]

Thank you for posting this I have been curious about actual chamber pictures. They are inexpensive, so, if they are roomy and durable I think all the skills gained here will translate.

The skills definitely translate, here are much better pics that actually made my decision to get it. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/372190-inside-drunker-tank.html

I didn't mean to hijack the thread or anything. I just knew that anyone that enjoys rebuilding and modding our vivi novas would probably like this tank as well.

 

[Endor]

I got a new camera and new video editing software, which I wanted to learn a bit...

...and had some heads ready for rebuild...

...so, I threw together this video that details my technique for rebuilding with cotton yarn. This is the process I outlined in post 620, with my ugly mug included for free.

My goal was to help those brand new to the Vivi Nova rebuilds with a step-by-step method for both the rebuild as well as the conversion to cotton wick. I have a few new Vivi Nova converts at my office, who have expressed interest in the cotton rebuild process, so figured others might find it helpful as well.

 

[gdeal]

I got a new camera and new video editing software, which I wanted to learn a bit...

...and had some heads ready for rebuild...

...so, I threw together this video that details my technique for rebuilding with cotton yarn. This is the process I outlined in post 620, with my ugly mug included for free.

My goal was to help those brand new to the Vivi Nova rebuilds with a step-by-step method for both the rebuild as well as the conversion to cotton wick. I have a few new Vivi Nova converts at my office, who have expressed interest in the cotton rebuild process, so figured others might find it helpful as well.

Endor - Great video! Two things as an addition to your technique, but optional of course. Use NR wire on the tails to prevent hot legs if you get them, the other is your tip to hit your coil again with flame after it is formed. I usually hit it with flame then quickly dip in water to make the coil wire a bit stiffer.. But again, both are just a personal preference.

Perfect explanation and walk through; really good quality.

 

[Endor]

Use NR wire on the tails to prevent hot legs if you get them, the other is your tip to hit your coil again with flame after it is formed. I usually hit it with flame then quickly dip in water to make the coil wire a bit stiffer.. But again, both are just a personal preference.

I've been meaning to try NR legs... but to be honest, I have never noticed the "burning rubber" taste some have reported, so I've never gotten around to it. I think that little rubber gasket is so well "burnished in" due to so many rebuilds, I doubt there is anything to burn now!

Also, I do flame the coil while it is still around the screw, and did in this video. I agree that it does help hold the coil together very nicely, especially when messing with it so much to pull the wicks through; the first few attempts I didn't do the flame, and the coil just got all bent out of shape. I've never tried quenching, though... that's a good idea, I may try that.

Perfect explanation and walk through; really good quality.

Thank you for the kind words! I've regularly enjoyed your posts as well!

 

[xMackx]

I have never got nr legs to work in my novas, just not enough room for a wire splice. With cotton and thinner rw I have never needed them because of temperature control.

That being said I do want to experiment with r-wire and non-r-wire welding like with the tsaf. Which is a mini welder specifically for welding non r-wire to r-wire.

 

[Endor]

Very interesting! This device has to be fairly simple... looks like just a large capacitor, so I did a google search, and found some details on how to make one of these yourself... uses a camera flash circuit for the capacitance and a AA battery. The Spark-O-Matic - Wire Arc Welding for coil making. Unfortunately registration is required to see any of the pics.

 

[gdeal]

Very interesting! This device has to be fairly simple... looks like just a large capacitor, so I did a google search, and found some details on how to make one of these yourself... uses a camera flash circuit for the capacitance and a AA battery. The Spark-O-Matic - Wire Arc Welding for coil making. Unfortunately registration is required to see any of the pics.

Sorry to go OT, but..FYI.. There is a whole thread on this here at ECF.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...095-resistance-no-resistance-wire-welder.html

 

[Endor]

Yeah gdeal, I JUST found that too... ergh...

 

[Aal_]

Hi Guys, I have a question regarding the small rubber cap on top of the wick. I am used to notch it to be able to fir a fatter wick. However when I do that, screwing the top cap is a pain since the rubber one starts spinning around and gets pushed down. Any solution for that?

 

[xMackx]

Hi Guys, I have a question regarding the small rubber cap on top of the wick. I am used to notch it to be able to fir a fatter wick. However when I do that, screwing the top cap is a pain since the rubber one starts spinning around and gets pushed down. Any solution for that?

Make smaller coils and thinner wicks. It's better to drill the bottom of the slot wider to accomidate for larger wicks than to mess with the top hat. Your coil and wick should be the same width as your slots either way.

 

[Aal_]

Make smaller coils and thinner wicks. It's better to drill the bottom of the slot wider to accomidate for larger wicks than to mess with the top hat. Your coil and wick should be the same width as your slots either way.

Thanks Mack, I am using fat wicks because of Boba's Bounty which is 100% VG. I already drilled the slots but maybe not enough. I will try to make a wide opening so that the wick would sit down without the need to notch the hat. Thanks again.

 

[JuniorNA]

I'm sure that this has been mentioned before but I went through a lot of craziness dealing with those hot leg posts by using crimpers and beading and twisting but what I came to realize is that once its in the tank those legs don't get red at all when using regular 32 gauge - no twisting or using NR wire. Am I right or am I crazy ?


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[LucentShadow]

I'm sure that this has been mentioned before but I went through a lot of craziness dealing with those hot leg posts by using crimpers and beading and twisting but what I came to realize is that once its in the tank those legs don't get red at all when using regular 32 gauge - no twisting or using NR wire. Am I right or am I crazy ?

I doubt that they would need to get red hot to burn the grommet.

In any case, I had little luck with 32 or 34 gauge nichrome not burning the gasket. Sometimes it took a while to notice it, but I always did. I'd guess that it may not bother some people, but it bothers me quite a bit.

It bothers me enough that I'll be building one of these, soon:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...095-resistance-no-resistance-wire-welder.html

I'm tired of twisting wires together, too. I'd just weld a bunch up at a time, with that.

 

[JuniorNA]

When it comes stock it doesn't use NR wire so how come it's fine when stock?


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[MikeE3]

When it comes stock it doesn't use NR wire so how come it's fine when stock?


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Supposedly the little silica sleeve 'stays damp' to help keep the coil legs 'cooler' on the stock setup.

 

[LucentShadow]

When it comes stock it doesn't use NR wire so how come it's fine when stock?


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Good question, but I don't know if people still find it to be a problem on stock heads.

The original stock heads did have that problem, and it was discovered that there were little burned spots on the grommet. It could cause anything from a horrible taste to a slightly bad taste because of poor manufacturing controls.

On the engineering side, they added a silica mesh sleeve that wicks some of the juice down to the legs, thus minimizing the problem. From what I've seen, though, most people discard that when rebuilding them either because they don't want the silica in there, or because it's difficult to re-wick with that sleeve in there. I've seen that at least one guy wraps some of his multi-stranded wicks down both legs to achieve that result.

 

[JuniorNA]

What I've been doing is like the OP said or one or the first few posts (not sure who said it). But I just keep the legs longer and double them up and twist them together all the way to the coil and it cuts the resistance in half - seems to work ok.


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[mrelwood]

When it comes stock it doesn't use NR wire so how come it's fine when stock?

It wasn't fine for me. First I kind of liked the taste of a nutty toast on top of every juice, but I soon started hating the extra taste. But if you're okay with it, no problem, keep doing what you do.

 

[solarisjedi]

What I've been doing is like the OP said or one or the first few posts (not sure who said it). But I just keep the legs longer and double them up and twist them together all the way to the coil and it cuts the resistance in half - seems to work ok.


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I do the same with the legs as well and it works great.

Here's one of my better builds to date:



I used a dremel to make the slots larger under the collar, and also smoothed all of the edges of the slots so they would not cut into the wick over time.

Am able to use three 2mm wicks without them being choked, and do not need to cut V's in the top grommet either.

I make the coil (34g A-1 kanthal) on a jewelers screwdriver thats just the right diameter, I prep the end of the wicks with spare wire, coiling it very tight to make the diameter of the ropes as small as possible on one end... this is to help thread it through my pre-made coil, I remove this after of course.

Once I have the legs doubled and twisted I tighten the coil slightly on the ropes to get it "just right".. or at least so there are no gaps and not too tight.

The coil is 5 ohms on this build. I vape it at 8 watts (+/- a watt depending on mood) in the vamo. Never a dry hit thus far and very full flavor.

I got just over a months usage on my last one... the wick wore out before the coil... I enjoy making them so I just make a new one every time heheh

 

[Weiliwu78]

I have been using my Vivi Nova for about a week, and today I noticed that it is leaking in very small amount on the bottom cap. Very little, seeping through the seam between the plastic tank and the bottom cap. Just wondering if this is a common problem or if this is just me. I hope this is not the juice weakening the tank because I do not believe the juice I put through this thing eats it up.

Not a big deal, a cheap tank anyway.

Thanks