Voltage problem

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Nyetek

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Nov 2, 2016
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Hey all, new member here.

I just bought a Curve mod (?) from Lost Vape (not across all the terminology yet). Unfortunately, the shop didnt tell me that you have to buy the battery separately, so it only functions at all when plugged in via USB.

I have two Russian 91% tanks that I inherited from a vape-savvy friend. Nominally, these should work with the Curve as the latter has a 510 connector. It plugs in correctly and recognises the coils in each tank as being 1ohm and 0.75ohm respectively (which again is correct as Curve is designed for 0.7 to 3ohm atomisers).

The problem is when I try to actually vape, no vapour is generated. The coil gets warm, but I noticed that no matter what power setting I put it on (i.e. 7W to 40W) the voltage (which only displays when pressing the trigger) remains the same. Specifically, it stays at 0.67V and 0.54V respectively for the 1ohm and 0.75ohm coils. Ive noticed that a very miniscule amount of vapour is generated for the 1ohm coil so I am pretty sure that it is a low voltage problem.

Is it possible that this is because of the lack of battery? It is unlikely to be a fault in the atomiser (since I have two), but the other possibility is that the Curve is in fact not compatible with this tank. However I would like to know beforehand as I'd much rather not buy another atomiser if not necessary, for several reasons (I like to roll my own coils and dont know of another atomiser that would fit the Curve, lets you do that, uses the same wire, is not expensive, etc). However it seems unlikely to me - surely the mod should work correctly if it is plugged into the wall?

Any opinions would be much appreciated, or if more info is required please let me know.

Thanks all
 

Nyetek

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Nov 2, 2016
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OK. I guess I will be safe since Im not going to use it as a passthrough anyway since its not working properly.

Thanks bro. I hope you are right! I might buy the battery first then and see how that goes. Its the obvious solution but I'm just in a hurry - I use it vaping as a cigarette substitute and don't want to get back into the latter.

Congrats on your own efforts per your sig
 
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Bonskibon

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When getting a battery, get a good one... one of these preferably.
Battery Chart.jpeg
 
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Bonskibon

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I might buy the battery first then and see how that goes. Its the obvious solution but I'm just in a hurry - I use it vaping as a cigarette substitute and don't want to get back into the latter.
Once you get a battery, it will work just fine. Totally understand not wanting to smoke, but you want to do things properly and safely.
 
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Continuity

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It's undoubtedly fine - the USB charging port cannot deliver anywhere *near* the amount of current that's needed to light up the coils - it's a common misconception that even with mods that can 'do' pass-through, that the required current to vape is coming from the charge port - it's not - the needed current is still coming from the battery when using mods in 'pass-through mode'.

Think about it - most mods charge in the 0.8-1A range, and the batteries we use for vaping have to be good for up to around 20A constant discharge - there's literally like 20-30x the amount of available current from the cell as there is from the charge port.

OP - make sure that you buy a decent battery(ies) - LG, Samsung or Sony branded ones that are good for 20A CDR - I tend to like the Samsung 25R and 30Q cells which are reasonably priced and work well.

EDIT - those Russian 91% tanks are old, but well-regarded tanks that give a good, tight MTL-style vape - they're not prone to leaking when wicked properly and the o-rings are in good condition.
 

sawlight

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It's undoubtedly fine - the USB charging port cannot deliver anywhere *near* the amount of current that's needed to light up the coils - it's a common misconception that even with mods that can 'do' pass-through, that the required current to vape is coming from the charge port - it's not - the needed current is still coming from the battery when using mods in 'pass-through mode'.

Think about it - most mods charge in the 0.8-1A range, and the batteries we use for vaping have to be good for up to around 20A constant discharge - there's literally like 20-30x the amount of available current from the cell as there is from the charge port.

OP - make sure that you buy a decent battery(ies) - LG, Samsung or Sony branded ones that are good for 20A CDR - I tend to like the Samsung 25R and 30Q cells which are reasonably priced and work well.

EDIT - those Russian 91% tanks are old, but well-regarded tanks that give a good, tight MTL-style vape - they're not prone to leaking when wicked properly and the o-rings are in good condition.
This!!!!!! You are getting 2 amps, or most likely less, from the USB/wall charger. No where near enough to power the coil.
At most you could run that .75 ohm coil at 3 watts!
Get a good battery and all will be fine.
 
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KenD

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When they say a device is "passthrough" it just means you can vape with it while it's charging.
Well, technically no. Passthrough means that the battery is passed by completely. However, the term is often erroneously used for mods that can be vaped while they're charging. The current draw with modern setups is too high to power by usb, so these mods stop the charging while vaping and draw the required power from the battery.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 
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Nyetek

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You were right my friend. On a whim I tried a battery from my ancient first vaping machine (a Provari) and it actually worked and fixed the problem; now it works a treat. Probably should still get a new battery since I imagine they last longer and maybe deliver a bigger hit also but Im pretty chuffed anyway. Thanks dude
 
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Nyetek

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The Curve is basically a rebranded istick,,totally wicked. Built in battery.
Plug in & view battery icon till full..

Nah man I think that is a different Curve! I know this because i was looking for the manual for my Curve (LostVape), but then found one for a Curve made by Totally Wicked which I could tell from the photo that I used to have as well before it broke (https://www.totallywicked-eliquid.c...loads/Product-manuals/tw_curve_manual_web.pdf). That one indeed had an inbuilt battery.

Sigh, Ive broken so many nice mods, not to mention atomisers. From memory:

- Provari: dropped numerous times, including two storeys onto concrete, before it finally gave out
- Curve (Totally Wicked): dropped a few times on wooden floor, now works once every few months for a day or so before giving a 'atomiser short' message every puff for another few months
- KBox 70W (Kangertech): dropped in the bath, screen broke but worked for a couple of months until a week ago

I like them all better than my current Curve 50W (Lost Vape) even though its the priciest - it seems like the more expensive ones are generally bigger which is not a good thing. Too bad you cant tell online
 
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daviedog

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Nah man I think that is a different Curve! I know this because i was looking for the manual for my Curve (LostVape), but then found one for a Curve made by Totally Wicked which I could tell from the photo that I used to have as well before it broke (https://www.totallywicked-eliquid.c...loads/Product-manuals/tw_curve_manual_web.pdf). That one indeed had an inbuilt battery.

Sigh, Ive broken so many nice mods, not to mention atomisers. From memory:

- Provari: dropped numerous times, including two storeys onto concrete, before it finally gave out
- Curve (Totally Wicked): dropped a few times on wooden floor, now works once every few months for a day or so before giving a 'atomiser short' message every puff for another few months
- KBox 70W (Kangertech): dropped in the bath, screen broke but worked for a couple of months until a week ago

I like them all better than my current Curve 50W (Lost Vape) even though its the priciest - it seems like the more expensive ones are generally bigger which is not a good thing. Too bad you cant tell online
There was also a Mech 'Curve' years ago. Compete with evolve kiick.
Glad all is well with your issue..
 
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