Currently im running a Sigelie 75w with dual 2.5mm 26g kanthal showing .6 ohms and my voltage is showing 4.7 at 45 watts. Im using a single samsung 25r. Is this ok and what voltage range should i stay in?
You can vape that at the full 75w with no worries.Currently im running a Sigelie 75w with dual 2.5mm 26g kanthal showing .6 ohms and my voltage is showing 4.7 at 45 watts. Im using a single samsung 25r. Is this ok and what voltage range should i stay in?
Newer mods use buck to up the power. The chip acts like a capacitor, storing voltage until it's needed, and applying more under the right settings than what the battery is rated for.
No, the boost converter draws current (Amps) to raise the output voltage above the battery voltage.So when I see the voltage, that's what it's drawing from the battery?
Working out amps with a regulated mod like you have is not totally straightforward.
Say you have 35W at 4.7V, Watts=Volts x Amps, so Amps = Watts / Volts. You are drawing 35/4.7 = 7.4 amps from the mod.
However the mod is drawing more than that from the battery. If the battery is fully discharged, it might be supplying only 3.2V, but still 35W. So the amp draw from the battery is 35/3.2 = 11 amps. It will be a little more than that, since the voltage conversion is not 100% efficient, but you don't want to get too close to the rated current anyway.
The thing to remember is that power is conserved. No matter what happens to volts or amps, the power taken from the battery is the same as the power delivered to the coil.
To expand on this, with a regulated variable power device. Lithium battery at Nominal Rated Voltage is a platue of 3.6 to 3.8volts. Device like example above 35w at 4.7v, at full charge of 4.2v the mod will pull an extra amp of current out of the battery to pass into the boost circuit that converts that extra amp into an extra 0.5v, then slip streams that 0.5 in with the 4.2v to make 4.7v. As the battery drains the boost circuit pulls more and more amps out of the battery to slipstream extra volts into the output, so by the time you are at 3.6v on the battery charge you could be pulling upwards of an extra 10amps current, so 11amps in example above, then add in another 9amps for voltage boosting conversion, total amp draw on the battery could be 20a, the max continuous discharge rating of the Samsung 25R. Thus if I am over 50watts, I'll use a 30amp CDR battery that can handle that much stress without damage, over 80watts on a regulated device I'll use a dual battery mod, not a single battery mod.
I said could potentially ask up near there, especially at higher wattage, as stated above also what the conversion is not exact as a 1amp to 1volt conversion, knowing how people like to skirt the envelope and boundaries around here anymore, was merely trying to empart they should add in an extra amp draw buffer, which could be max 5amps or so, Ohms law Calculators work real well when talking what to expect as potential max output of a battery directly connected to a coil, in a regulated with a boost circuit a lot of people do not take the extra amp draw the mod does into account or do not know that it exists.
Minor point here, and practically useless, but I know of at least one mod that does allow the batteries to drain past 3.2V. The gi2 clone off fasttech will definitely do that.... not that anyone would buy it now, but mine was bought in November or December of last year, and is now in my box of spare parts. Turns out it stays on and drains the batteries when you're not using it for a weekend and kills the batteries.I agree with your last point. Always best to use the lowest voltage the mod will operate at and divide the max wattage by that. Then increase it by 10% to handle regulator inefficiency. This will give you the worst-case current draw from the battery. If the low voltage cutoff for the mod is not known, use 3.2V. I've haven't seen a regulated mod operate below that.
So when I see the voltage, that's what it's drawing from the battery?
Minor point here, and practically useless, but I know of at least one mod that does allow the batteries to drain past 3.2V. The gi2 clone off fasttech will definitely do that.... not that anyone would buy it now, but mine was bought in November or December of last year, and is now in my box of spare parts. Turns out it stays on and drains the batteries when you're not using it for a weekend and kills the batteries.
Well, the cutoff is around 5 to 5.5 volts (series) if it's been used recently. If it hasn't been used, it'll just slowly drain the batteries until they're real dead lol. As in 0.0 volts dead. It was really only used for builds that required more power than I could use with my kbox or my lil smok mod, so I'm stuck with 40 ish watts for now. It had quite a few other "features" that didn't endear me to it, but the whole eating batteries thing is probably the worst.Hmmm...I guess you would use 100W divided by 0.0V then.
Lousy "feature" that mod has! It doesn't have a cutoff while you're vaping?
To expand on this, with a regulated variable power device. Lithium battery at Nominal Rated Voltage is a platue of 3.6 to 3.8volts. Device like example above 35w at 4.7v, at full charge of 4.2v the mod will pull an extra amp of current out of the battery to pass into the boost circuit that converts that extra amp into an extra 0.5v, then slip streams that 0.5 in with the 4.2v to make 4.7v. As the battery drains the boost circuit pulls more and more amps out of the battery to slipstream extra volts into the output, so by the time you are at 3.6v on the battery charge you could be pulling upwards of an extra 10amps current, so 11amps in example above, then add in another 9amps for voltage boosting conversion, total amp draw on the battery could be 20a, the max continuous discharge rating of the Samsung 25R. Thus if I am over 50watts, I'll use a 30amp CDR battery that can handle that much stress without damage, over 80watts on a regulated device I'll use a dual battery mod, not a single battery mod.