Voltage/Wattage - does it truly matter?

[MJTP]

So one new discovery seems to be the iTaste (or whatever) that has variable voltage and wattage.

My question: under no circumstance will I be recoiling, I will be buying normal tanks and clearos from websites, and how they come will have to be how they come. At the very most, I'd remove one of the extra wicks in some models.

If that's the case, do I really need to worry about any variables? My biggest concern would be taste - I am very taste sensitive, and I will indeed be trying complex juices. I'm a little less concerned about throat hit or temperature, but of coarse, I'd like those things to be present.

I've just been looking at the Twist for awhile, and swallowing Voltage as something I could play with. Combine Wattage and I'd probably be on this forum 25/7 asking questions. But truth is, I'll do anything to avoid burnt chemical tastes, I'm so tired of that.

What do ya'll think? If wattage/voltage wouldn't be so important for tank models like the Evods and such, I'd almost just get the whole Evod starter kit to have a sleek design and not worry. But nothing that's simple ever truly seems to be good in the end..,

 

[Elemental0619]

Well if you have a low resistance it wont really matter but say you have something with a higher resistance you're gonna need to up your volts/watts... if you want something similiar to an Ego I'd go with an Ego V its variable voltage but very simple and its also a passthrough.... And alsi btw even with EVOD's or T3's youre gonna have to up your output if its a higher resistance

 

[falken02]

Hi,

Depending on the carto/clearo you put on, voltage matters a lot (as well as wattage of course but they are closely linked), especially if you change carto/clearo depending on the juice.

The taste is mostly linked to the wattage, which depends on the resistance and the voltage. As resistance vary from one carto/clearo to another (even from one item to the other in the same box and even during the life of one item), and voltage, if not regulated, vary from the fully charged to fully discharged battery, adjusting the voltage is quite useful to achieve the right taste (and a regular one).

With a VV device, you adapt the voltage to the resistance and if you change the carto/clearo (or the juice in it), you can adjust it. Gone is the battery voltage variation as now it's regulated by the VV electronics. Eventually, the carto/clearo resistance will slowly evolve during its lifespan (far longer than a battery charge;-) and you can adjust a little if necessary.
To start with something reasonable, there are very simple tables (standard resistance -> voltage range for a good vape aka "sweetspot").

With a VW device, well, it's even simpler as the voltage will adjust itself even if the resistance is different (from one carto to the other but also from a carto to a clearo). If you use really very different juices that you appreciate with different wattage, you just change the wattage and that's it.

The "make my own coil" seems to me quite linked to something completely different : adapting the resistance to the battery and the liquid used (and, well, a bit of geekery). Quite useful for fully mechanical devices, but a completely opposite route (and a bumpy one apparently).

Hope it helped. Good vape.

 

[JUDGMENT AFFIRMED]

So one new discovery seems to be the iTaste (or whatever) that has variable voltage and wattage.

My question: under no circumstance will I be recoiling, I will be buying normal tanks and clearos from websites, and how they come will have to be how they come. At the very most, I'd remove one of the extra wicks in some models.

If that's the case, do I really need to worry about any variables? My biggest concern would be taste - I am very taste sensitive, and I will indeed be trying complex juices. I'm a little less concerned about throat hit or temperature, but of coarse, I'd like those things to be present.

I've just been looking at the Twist for awhile, and swallowing Voltage as something I could play with. Combine Wattage and I'd probably be on this forum 25/7 asking questions. But truth is, I'll do anything to avoid burnt chemical tastes, I'm so tired of that.

What do ya'll think? If wattage/voltage wouldn't be so important for tank models like the Evods and such, I'd almost just get the whole Evod starter kit to have a sleek design and not worry. But nothing that's simple ever truly seems to be good in the end..,

Hi MJTP,
Volts and watts won't prevent "burnt chemical taste" - But may cause problems if set too high.
I wasn't the first to try Vv and when I finally did get a Joyetech twist - well, I played with it for awhile, then finally just set it at 3.7 volts and left it there.
Just checked my Provari - its set at 4.0 volts and is seldom adjusted - and if I do adjust, its DOWN, not up.
I still have, and still use all my original Joyetech (3.3v) and KGO (3.7v).
Sure, VV has advantages - but you may find it not that big a deal.
Good Luck.

 

[The Ocelot]

It all comes down to what tastes good to you. Charts and formulae only give you a place to start, then you dial up or down until you find your "sweet spot." What I primarily use calculations for is buying different resistance delivery systems for regulated voltage devices. For example, my box mod is fixed 3.7v, so to adjust the power level I have to change the resistance.

 

[Wow1420]

Having variable voltage makes it easy to fine tune your vape to what you like. State with the dial set low (too low means little or no vapor), and gradually increase until you're satisfied. If you overshoot(harsh and/or burnt taste), take it down a notch or two.

Variable wattage means that once you find your sweet spot the device will adjust itself to keep the same power even when you switch tanks/atomizers/clearos. You can ignore this feature if you'd rather keep adjusting volts yourself.

Having a fixed voltage battery can work out well too, but will likely take a little trial and error to find the resistance(ohms) that works for you. This may mean swapping atomizers or heads in a clearo until you find one that work just right.

I use variable voltage batteries at home, but I take a simple ego with me away from home because I only want to carry something small and lightweight with me.

 

[StarDose]

VW is easy if you use the same type of clearos, if you like lets say protanks/evods at 9w you can set it and swap out to other bottom coils without adjusting wattage very often. But if you switch between top coil and bottom coil clearos you would probably need to adjust wattage between both types. Juice flavors can also need a small adjustment sometimes, so VW isn't set and forget its more like less adjusting than vv.

 

[MJTP]

I think I still need a little info on what wattage and voltage really means for an e-cig battery.

Basically, I don't know much about this at all. I know that three variables come into play: voltage, wattage, and resistance. I truly don't know the properties of any of those, or what they really even do, or how they relate.

As far as I get this, these features are a bit like turning the heat up on an oven. Sometimes it's a good thing, sometimes it's not. Just like with certain foods, I'd bet that certain juices need a lower "temperature", and some need a higher - and as the "temperature" gets higher, the throat hit and warmth of the vape get better.

Sure, I'd like that. But I'm truly trying to put the least work into this as I can. To mark one thing out, if buying difference resistance clearomizers and things is a step that can be cut out by simply buying a variable device, that'd be what I'd first choose.

Now, the difference between voltage and wattage is beyond me. All I know is that, from what I know, this is pretty much the temperature. I know nothing else about it. However, truth is, along with trying to make things easy, I plan on using clearotanks, clearomizers, easy things.. most likely, say, the ProTank II, the eVod, ect ect. Some sort of truly simple, cheap, and disposable dripping device might be useful during steeping. Stuff like that.

With my tanks, I'll be cleaning them and discarding the whole innards when something needs replaced - I know how easy that replacing coils and wicks can be, but I just stay in a rush and would rather pay $2 or so for an entire head; from what I've heard too, juice is hard to get out of the mechanics when you want to try new flavors. I'll probably buy two Clearotanks as well, and that's it - just something to be able to switch up flavors without cleaning too often. To put it simply, I'm not going to be taking those apart other than cleaning - no modding or getting deep into that stuff, and since some tanks out there only come in one resistance, it's probably best for me to cut the Tank factors out of this.

So what I'm really into is doing whatever is required to ensure that I do not get a burnt or largely diminished flavor to my vapes. I'm still a "nothing is perfect" kind of guy when it comes to vaping, but I do want a full mouth of vapor and very robust flavor. If setting the voltage or wattage really makes a difference in this (if your coil and wick is not custom), then I'd go with the iTaste most likely. If voltage really is the only feature that's needed for my set-up, I'd probably go with an eGo twist. If neither will make much difference, heck, I'd probably go with a good cig-alike since I have an ambition to eventually fit my device into the stem of a (proportionally designed) wooden pipe by drilling out the stem; a simple cig-alike would be easiest.

To be honest, battery life is the least important to me, as I'm near some type of outlet every minute of my life and I don't get to fussed over charging; especially if the device works with a passthrough.

Thanks for the help!

 

[sawtoothscream]

I dont see the difference between them. vv you adjust until you find teh sweet spot. VW do the same thing. In the end do you want to look at lower numbers while adjusting or higher numbers. Seems to be the only difference im seeing.

 

[LisaR]

Just my POV, but voltage DOES matter. If you want to go simple, a Twist or Spinner really will make a world of difference. You don't need to memorize the ohms/wattage/voltage chart, you just twist the little dial on the bottom until your juice tastes great. I can still clearly remember the "Oh, wow!" moment I had when I first put my T3 that I'd been using on my brand new Twist. It made a HUGE difference. Now, you can spend a whole lot more on advanced variable wattage/variable voltage devices, but a Twist or a Spinner is a fantastic, relatively low cost place to start. Personally, I prefer the Spinner to the Twist. The knob is easier to turn and to read, and I also think the PWM (power width modulation) is better.

If you want the technicalities of it, in short voltage/resistance=wattage. I'm pretty sure it's a more complicated formula than that, and there are a ton of charts out there, but if you want easy and good, go with a Spinner or Twist, and you don't have to memorize formulas. You just have to turn the dial until your vape tastes great!

 

[The Ocelot]

Maybe this might help a little:

Unfortunately, it doesn't clearly illustrate watts. Pretend there is a balloon attached to the end of the straw the monkey is blowing. The size of the balloon would be the watts. In the waterfall drawing the watts would be the amount of water in the pool at the bottom.

Watts are the power, the heat, it's the output of your battery device. To get the amount of watts you want, volts and resistance interact. For example:

I have 2 mods on my desk. One is a 3.7v fixed model and the other is variable. The volts on the 3.7v can't be changed, so if I want higher or lower watts I have to change the resistance of the atomizer screwed onto it. A 1.5Ω gives me 9.1 watts, a 2.2Ω gives me 6.2 watts. All I can change is the resistance.

With a variable device I have more options to fine tune what I like since I can change the resistance and the voltage (or in some models just change the watts directly). Have I lost you?

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

Yes it does matter....too hot (voltage and current = higher wattage) and you can burn your juice real quick like, to low and it doesn't get hot enough to make good vapor...plus it depends on the juice and the coils too, thicker wire heats up slower because it can flow more current before it gets hot (ever wonder why your battery cable to your starter in your car is 3/8" thick or larger?)

Hope this helps

Plus you have to understand Nichrome wire has a specific resistance (you can calculate the resistance of your coil by number of turns and gauge of wire, this is why it "heats" up better than say copper (which is the best conductor besides gold)

http://www.interfacebus.com/properties-of-nichrome-wire.html

 

[The Ocelot]

Charts and equations only give you a place to start. From there you adjust to what tastes good to you. According to the above chart I'm vaping in the red. I have one flavor that rocks at 9.1w, but another that fries over 6w, no matter what I can supposedly vape it at.

 

[SASmith]

I don't like to spend too much time on ohms law unless I'm forced to. My first kit consisted of two Ego twists, a Viva Nova, a Kanger MT3 a vapeonly BCC tank, a Kanger T2 and a stardust. One type of battery and 5 clearomizers which were all a little different. I would just fill them up, put them on the battery, start at low voltage setting (as advised) and upped the voltage until I liked it.

 

[The Ocelot]

My first kit was 2 650mAh standard eGos. I didn't even get a 1000mAh or a clearo for a couple of months, then later a Twist. I quit just fine. I filled up these weird cartridges that are hardly sold anymore and happily vaped away while I read the forum.

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

Yes the charts and stuff are just that charts...it does give you a good place to start

Being able to tune your rig to your vape and e-juice is ultimately the right way to go...it would be like being able to tune your car on the fly to the environment and variables specific to that one particular rune

Like my Totally Wicked Tornado RCS...It comes with stock 2.4Ω coils and runs at a regulated 3.7vdc I can turn it to unregulated or throw in a 1.8Ω to up the heat to generate more vapor (more vapor means more used juice though)

I'm a noob to vaping, an 18+ year analogger, and spent most of my life in electronics (my MOS was 2841)

 

[Ryedan]

VV or VW is great to have to be able to get what you want from your vape. Don't sweat which one it is MJTP. Both do the same thing in the end. I think you are more comfortable with VV, so just get that. Vape happy

 

[MJTP]

Honestly, I guess it's that I really want to pick a device and stick with it until it simply doesn't work anymore - saves money too. But with the market out there, it's tough to choose - the iTaste has everything, but it's expensive and ugly. The Twists are simpler, chesper, and a lot cooler looking with clearotanks (like a miniature hookah), but it's generally still a bigger device. A cig-alike would allow me to do a simple tobacco pipe decoration mod, which would be a fun hobby, but they have no features. I already have the new $35 Blu kit (charger stopped working 6 days after I bought it), and the batteries are TINY, and I think the threading actually fits eVod clearos (?) so I guess those would be my pipe mod batteries. If I want to insert my Blu's into a pipe stem and slap on a Clearo, is there any technical reason I couldn't go ahead and test Clearos with my Blu, see if I like them with auto batts?

That being said, I gotta ask: with all the devices out there, some being gigantic and having wattage/voltage gallore, what is the reasons some people really go for those options. Do some juices really not work until they're vaped at a max range? Is the throat hit and vapor really not very good at all til it gets to those ranges? I just don't wanna buy a device and end up being dissapointed that it can't provide more flavor or vapor than a Blu :/. I'd say 2.5-3X a Blu would be good. Of coarse, this is a combo between battery and cartomizer but... I guess I'm just saying I'd rather be like "Woah, this is fantastic!" than "Eh, this flavor tastes good, it's just not a full-bodies taste." or "This vapor is scratchy but not truly bodied in texture." (I want a thick vape I believe, but not nessicarily too scratchy.)

Most likely - the Twist type models will be my choice though; the design, with the tank skirt too, just sorta jumps out to me as cool. Are they as safe as the iTastes tho? Do they have all those saftey short-circuit festures? Those really won me over concerning the iTaste... ugh, tough choice. And there's that whole new iTaste pen-style kit to worry about, which looks cool in itself (but is a total waste of extra money its clearos end up being not so good.)

Random statement too, but I'm really excited about trying to turn a cheap $10 Amazon tobacco pipe (they have really intricate designed ones on there!) into an cig-alike disguiser. I've never seen that before, and I say it's a good way to find a use for old cigalikes and a way to look cool vaping a pipe lol. All I guess I'd need is a drill and something to act as a collar to secure the ecig where it first goes in the hole. Slap a clearo on there, a long mouthpiece, and there you have it!

 

[Ryedan]

It's really hard to pick ecig hardware and stick with it. Things change so fast in this game, plus we learn as we go and that changes it also. It's really easy to get hung up on the best and biggest thing, but that's a moving target. I did that last year. My advice now is pick something that may work for you and try it. Don't let information overload derail you. Remember, every day you spend thinking this through is another day you will be smoking.

How much did you spend on smoking? If you make that your budget and don't get carried away, you will not over spend. Vape healthy

 

[fabricator4]

I dont see the difference between them. vv you adjust until you find teh sweet spot. VW do the same thing. In the end do you want to look at lower numbers while adjusting or higher numbers. Seems to be the only difference im seeing.

Not really. Watt's is a measure of the power being put through the coil, in other words, it's the heat that's being generated. Generally we want the same amount of heat for a given device with a given e-liquid in it.

Say you have two Protanks, and you like to run them at 6 Watts (a realistic figure for a bottom coil device by the way). You set your device to 6W and vape away happily on the two protanks changing them whenever you feel like a change of flavour. The device sets the voltage appropriate to the coil resistance.

Now say you have to use Variable Voltage for some reason. You know that one of your coils is 2.4 ohms, or at least that's what you bought. 6 watts times resistance gives you voltage squared. You get out your phone/calculator and find out that means you need to run it at 3.8 volts. Great! Now you change flavours and screw the other device on. Eeeew it tasted burnt. You never realised it, but the coil was actually a 1.8 ohm for some reason (does happen).

Get out your calculator again, and find out that 3.8V on a 1.8 ohm coil is actually 8 watts (many of you would not have needed the calculator for such a simple one). That's pretty toasty on a Protank.

When you're running VW you don't need to worry about changing the power when the coil resistance changes; the device will do that for you. When you're running VV you do need to make manual adjustments to cater for any changes that are made.