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The difference between vv or vw boils down to the individual. I recently asked a similar question and a friend gave me his example. His wife also vapes, but can't be bothered to check the resistance on her clearomizer before she fires her mod. So in her case, vw is warranted as the device will adjust the voltage accordingly without having to worry about the head popping from too much power being pushed through it.
Me? I don't mind fiddling with voltages. I check the resistance religiously and adjust my voltage accordingly, so vw for me isn't that big of a deal. It all boils down to personal preference and what your vaping habits are like.
Me? I don't mind fiddling with voltages. I check the resistance religiously and adjust my voltage accordingly, so vw for me isn't that big of a deal. It all boils down to personal preference and what your vaping habits are like.
If you want to think of it that way, yes. All you need to know is "about 6.5 watts for bottom coil devices" and "about 8 watts for everything else". Of course personal preferences and differences in flavourings may require a slight tweak to these rules, but it doesn't require the user to know anything about the coil resistance or ohms law.
There's many ways of doing things - trial and error, ohms law calculations, and knowing the power required for a particular delivery device seem to be the main three.
I'm quite happy using any of these methods, but when I have a VW device in my hands I always use the feature in preference to setting volts. If I'm buying a new mod it's one of the features I look for since I see the lack of VW as a compromise. Price, style, size, weight and overall functionality are also factors, so whether or not it has VW may not be that important. I use a range of devices from purely mechanical, VV only, and mods with VW.
Hope this simplifies the advantages to variable wattage.
A variable voltage device will deliver whatever voltage you dial into it. If you use say a 2.0 ohm single coil atomizer at 3.7V and that's your favorite setting then you like about 7 watts (although a VV device won't tell you this). That's Ohm's Law. If you want the same performance from a 3.0 ohm atomizer then by Ohm's Law (or your sense of taste) you will need to dial your VV device up to 4.6V for the same 7 watts.
A variable wattage device will deliver whatever wattage you dial into it. A VW rig will calculate and make that voltage adjustment automatically for you. If you like 7 watts on the 2.0 ohm atomizer then just dial the device to 7 watts. Now, if you put a 3.0 ohm atomizer on the device you will not have to adjust the voltage again because the VW device will check the resistance of the new atomizer, calculate and adjust the voltage for you and provide the 7 watts.
A VW rig will automatically adjust for slight resistance variations as your atomizer ages.
The VV/VW rigs common today don't cost any more for having both VV and VW capability. You can use either one.
I like using wattage settings on my Sigelei Zmax V3 telescopic. But, my favorite feature is the rock solid voltage regulation I get from this device and that's common to the best VV and VV/VW rigs. I get the same performance from a newly charged battery at 4.2V as I do just before the rig gives me the low battery power indication at about 3.3V.
A variable voltage device will deliver whatever voltage you dial into it. If you use say a 2.0 ohm single coil atomizer at 3.7V and that's your favorite setting then you like about 7 watts (although a VV device won't tell you this). That's Ohm's Law. If you want the same performance from a 3.0 ohm atomizer then by Ohm's Law (or your sense of taste) you will need to dial your VV device up to 4.6V for the same 7 watts.
A variable wattage device will deliver whatever wattage you dial into it. A VW rig will calculate and make that voltage adjustment automatically for you. If you like 7 watts on the 2.0 ohm atomizer then just dial the device to 7 watts. Now, if you put a 3.0 ohm atomizer on the device you will not have to adjust the voltage again because the VW device will check the resistance of the new atomizer, calculate and adjust the voltage for you and provide the 7 watts.
A VW rig will automatically adjust for slight resistance variations as your atomizer ages.
The VV/VW rigs common today don't cost any more for having both VV and VW capability. You can use either one.
I like using wattage settings on my Sigelei Zmax V3 telescopic. But, my favorite feature is the rock solid voltage regulation I get from this device and that's common to the best VV and VV/VW rigs. I get the same performance from a newly charged battery at 4.2V as I do just before the rig gives me the low battery power indication at about 3.3V.
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Ultimately, the battery device just supplies the power. Variable voltage/Variable power offers more options to fine tune the watts, but they aren't necessary. Changing the watts changes the temperature of how the liquid is vaporized, which changes the flavor, throat hit and (somewhat) the vapor, but when you are new those differences may not be very apparent.
When you stop smoking your senses of taste and smell go through changes as they heal after years of smoking. I could barely taste any juice other than menthol and mint for about 2 months, and even after I got a Twist I didn't notice much difference for a couple of more months. Getting a variable device in the being is a good plan money wise, because you can just set it at one level and leave it there, treating it like a standard fixed battery, until you start to taste the subtle changes.
All of the batteries you are looking at are equally "safe." No battery is 100% safe, whether it be for vaping, in a flashlight or in your cell phone - but the devices you are considering are all in the same range.
Get what you like. Everyone has their favorite devices that worked for them, and ultimately they are trying to save you money, but get what you want. Sometimes people say "just get XXX because you'll end up with one anyway," which is ridiculous, except in a case like this, where if you don't get the pretty one (no matter what it is) that makes you smile when you look at it, you will probably end up getting it anyway because it's the one you really wanted.
I have a lot of mods that I have bought as milestones: 100 days, 6 months, my birthday (okay that was a stretch, but it was on sale
), yet if everything was taken away and I only had my 650mAh standard eGos, they would be enough to keep me from smoking.If the device is ugly, don't get it, no matter how many bells and whistles it has. Vaping has a learning curve no matter where you start, so start with a pink or a purple one, skip the ugly one. It's not a "waste" of money if you aren't smoking.
Rawr.
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I'd really appreciate a little education here, as I 'thought' that this VV/VW thing was just an advertising gimmick used by vendors.
The old formula, W(atts)=I(current) x E(voltage) hasn't changed in years
. In other words, to put it in words, if you have enough
volts, wattage is entirely dependent on the resistance of the "heating unit". So, it would seem if one had a battery with a high enough
voltage (well, there's a little more to it than that....), you could get whatever wattage you desired.
Maybe I'm confusing this with specific circuitry made to let the user adjust the wattage, and hold it there, raising the voltage when conditions become necessary. And, possibly there's specific circuitry to maintain a steady voltage, which would essentially (but not 100%) hold the wattage at a steady state (but variables like change in resistance, etc, etc, would negate an exact 1 to 1 ration between voltage and wattage. Am I anywhere near the right track here ??? It just looked kinda' strange seeing VV/VW, but, then I'm hardly a veteran, and obviously, by posting here, that's pretty obvious .
The old formula, W(atts)=I(current) x E(voltage) hasn't changed in years
. In other words, to put it in words, if you have enoughvolts, wattage is entirely dependent on the resistance of the "heating unit". So, it would seem if one had a battery with a high enough
voltage (well, there's a little more to it than that....), you could get whatever wattage you desired.
Maybe I'm confusing this with specific circuitry made to let the user adjust the wattage, and hold it there, raising the voltage when conditions become necessary. And, possibly there's specific circuitry to maintain a steady voltage, which would essentially (but not 100%) hold the wattage at a steady state (but variables like change in resistance, etc, etc, would negate an exact 1 to 1 ration between voltage and wattage. Am I anywhere near the right track here ??? It just looked kinda' strange seeing VV/VW, but, then I'm hardly a veteran, and obviously, by posting here, that's pretty obvious
.
I'd really appreciate a little education here, as I 'thought' that this VV/VW thing was just an advertising gimmick used by vendors.
The old formula, W(atts)=I(current) x E(voltage) hasn't changed in years
volts, wattage is entirely dependent on the resistance of the "heating unit". So, it would seem if one had a battery with a high enough
voltage (well, there's a little more to it than that....), you could get whatever wattage you desired.
Maybe I'm confusing this with specific circuitry made to let the user adjust the wattage, and hold it there, raising the voltage when conditions become necessary. And, possibly there's specific circuitry to maintain a steady voltage, which would essentially (but not 100%) hold the wattage at a steady state (but variables like change in resistance, etc, etc, would negate an exact 1 to 1 ration between voltage and wattage. Am I anywhere near the right track here ??? It just looked kinda' strange seeing VV/VW, but, then I'm hardly a veteran, and obviously, by posting here, that's pretty obvious
As with a lot of things a little bit technical, the terminology can be a bit confusing at times. "Variable Voltage" means that it doesn't actually change from what we set it to. It's variable in as much as the user can change the setting after which the device will try to maintain that setting. The same
With VV we set the volts to achieve the desired result, then if the resistance changes then obvious the overall power (watts) is going to change as well. The device will continue to deliver the same voltage it was set to regardless.
With VW we set the power output (watts). The device has to measure the resistance and output the appropriate voltage to achieve this. If the resistance changes the device has to change the voltage it is outputting to add up to the power level we have set. The difference is just the part of the equation that we are controlling.
More than just marketing blurb - they are features that give us options for controlling how we use the device.
I have a Vision Spinner. Three VW batteries have "caught my eye":
iTaste VV...about $60
eVic...about $104
ProVari...about $180
Would there be any "added benefits" of any of these over my Vision Spinner?
What would I gain as I move up the "price scale"?
One question I have:
When you change the wattage on a device, does the voltage setting change with it and vice versa? If it doesn't, then even just between voltage and wattage, there's at least 50 different combinations of settings that may have a different effect - how would anyone ever find what's perfect, and how would so many combinations really have all that much effect from one another?
And about wattage being automatically controlled by the device once it is set, why can't VV devices do that as well?
When you change the wattage on a device, does the voltage setting change with it and vice versa? If it doesn't, then even just between voltage and wattage, there's at least 50 different combinations of settings that may have a different effect - how would anyone ever find what's perfect, and how would so many combinations really have all that much effect from one another?
And about wattage being automatically controlled by the device once it is set, why can't VV devices do that as well?
The Provari does not have VW. VV Only.
the iTaste VV version 3 *does* have VW. Go figure.
Your vision spinner is fine, you don't have to upgrade just to get VW. Maybe when you are ready to upgrade for other reasons you might consider if VW is important to you. Don't upgrade just for VW unless you really think it would help you.
Oh, one thing, everyone knows that getting a different coil is like a steroid to the voltage and wattage setting, and everyone knows that voltage, wattage, and resistance are three factors that actually do nothing but make vapor hotter and taste better, if the juice allows for that in itself. What the newbies are all really wondering is again, A. Do the Voltage/Wattage "settings" (specifically the numbers on the LCD) change with each other (parallel) or are they seperate, like Treble and Bass. B. Say you have a combination of a low-resistance coil (1.8?) and max voltage/wattage (12V?), can any juices or tanks even handle this much power? and C. About the whole regulatory wattage thing, what if you set it to 5 Watts with a 2.8 Coil (just throwing approximation numbers out there that sound low power and high resistance) how in the world would the device keep that same power if you suddenly slapped a 1.8 coil on there? What is that feature really all about?
They are three parts of the same equation: Volts, Resistance, and Watts (which is volts times current). Power is what heats the coil. You can select the volts that gives the required power on a given coil, or you can just select watts (power) and let the device worry about the resistance and the volts.
It's one or the other, you can't do both at the same time.
A. They change with each other. With a variable voltage device, you are going to get the same voltage output you set regardless of the resistance of the coil you are using, until you change it. You will get a hotter vape (higher wattage) with a lower resistance coil, and a cooler vape (lower wattage) with a higher resistance coil. You adjust the voltage to get the vape you want when you change coils (or juices). With a variable wattage device, you set the wattage you want, and the device will adjust the voltage output to keep it there, if you change coils.
B. You would almost certainly pop you coil and/or burn the juice. I can't say that NO juices or tanks can handle it, but probably not.
C. Yes, that is what that feature is all about. A variable wattage device will change the power (voltage) to adjust to the wattage you set when you change the coil.
Hope that is helpful!
So with most devices, the manufacturers set Watts in large increments because they believe that these increments are the only increments that really will effect a taste or vape volume, and that any increments smaller than that will be left up to the automated Voltage in effort to keep the vape very consistent even if the battery runs down, or even if the coil type changes?
So far, that sounds easiest. And with the devices that have this, like the iTaste, do they also have features preventing too much power (if these devices could in some way send enough power to the tank in a way that'd realistically burn it up.)?
So far, I'll be honest, this whole Watts thing sounds more like a vanity feature and not something essential. However, when it comes down to investing in a good device, anything to make it simpler helps, and devices like iTaste, with overcharge protection, undercharge protection, short-circuit protection, 10-second button protection, double-step turn on protection, and passthrough, make it a very appealing device. WHY could this device not be round though? I've seen reviews and it looks UGLY with the ProTank II's... just UGLY. Lol.
Not that it really matters, but geez... what a difference simple shape can make. I really hope they make a tank skirt that slides on rather than screws in, as this would allow it to have a square shape at the bottom of the skirt, creating a truly smooth flow up to the Protank. Like a soft cube that morphs into a cylinder.
So far, that sounds easiest. And with the devices that have this, like the iTaste, do they also have features preventing too much power (if these devices could in some way send enough power to the tank in a way that'd realistically burn it up.)?
So far, I'll be honest, this whole Watts thing sounds more like a vanity feature and not something essential. However, when it comes down to investing in a good device, anything to make it simpler helps, and devices like iTaste, with overcharge protection, undercharge protection, short-circuit protection, 10-second button protection, double-step turn on protection, and passthrough, make it a very appealing device. WHY could this device not be round though? I've seen reviews and it looks UGLY with the ProTank II's... just UGLY. Lol.
Not that it really matters, but geez... what a difference simple shape can make. I really hope they make a tank skirt that slides on rather than screws in, as this would allow it to have a square shape at the bottom of the skirt, creating a truly smooth flow up to the Protank. Like a soft cube that morphs into a cylinder.
You still seem to think they are independent and unrelated things. They are not, they're mathematically proportional. Power and volts are two sides of the same coin - change one, change the other. Which one we are changing depends on our personal preferences, nothing else. The end result is the same.
The mathematical formula that applies here is:
V^2 = W x R
You can't set one and then change the other independently. They are proportional.
If it helps, use this Ohms Law calculator to pretend you are a VV or a VW device.
If you are VV device...
1. Enter the resistance of your atomizing device into the Resistance (R) space.
2. Now enter the voltage you running in the Voltage (E) space.
3. Press the Calculate button.
4. You will see the power in watts displayed in the Power (P) space.
Hit reset and enter the same voltage with a different resistance value for another atomizer. You will calculate a different wattage (Power) value. If you want the same power with the second atomizer you will have to bump the voltage up.
Hit the reset button.
Now pretend you are a VW device.
1. Enter the wattage you want to run in the Power (P) space.
2. Enter the resistance of your atomizing device into the Resistance (R) space.
3. Hit the calculate button.
4. The Power value stays the same (watts). The Voltage (E) has changed to provide the wattage you selected. This is what the VW device will do for you and the power result will stay the same even if you run the calculation again with a different resistance value.
Ohm's Law Calculator
If you are VV device...
1. Enter the resistance of your atomizing device into the Resistance (R) space.
2. Now enter the voltage you running in the Voltage (E) space.
3. Press the Calculate button.
4. You will see the power in watts displayed in the Power (P) space.
Hit reset and enter the same voltage with a different resistance value for another atomizer. You will calculate a different wattage (Power) value. If you want the same power with the second atomizer you will have to bump the voltage up.
Hit the reset button.
Now pretend you are a VW device.
1. Enter the wattage you want to run in the Power (P) space.
2. Enter the resistance of your atomizing device into the Resistance (R) space.
3. Hit the calculate button.
4. The Power value stays the same (watts). The Voltage (E) has changed to provide the wattage you selected. This is what the VW device will do for you and the power result will stay the same even if you run the calculation again with a different resistance value.
Ohm's Law Calculator
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The way I'm looking at it, is say if you set the Watts to 8.5 (not being specific here, forgot what these devices' numbers are) then, as the battery weakens and the Watts slide down to 8.4, 8.3, 8.2... the Voltage regulator cranks it up by 0.1 decimals because the Watt decimals can't be displayed in 0.1 decimals for who knows why, just 0.5 ones. Essentially, I'm thinking it's the exact same thing if the LCD showed Voltage in incriments of 0.5 and applied an auto-matic regulator for the smaller incriments.
I dont care anything about doing math though, I'm illiterate at math lol. when I test a juice, I'm starting at the lowest possible power and cranking it up slowly until I find what's right. Especially with the NET's I plan on trying.
I dont care anything about doing math though, I'm illiterate at math lol. when I test a juice, I'm starting at the lowest possible power and cranking it up slowly until I find what's right. Especially with the NET's I plan on trying.
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