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Fine tuning is checking the resistance of the head and dialing in the appropriate voltage or wattage, then raising or lowering the power until you find that perfect sweet spot for your juice.
VV procedure for changing to a coil of unknown resistance but using the same power.
1) Replace coil or device
2) Measure resistance
3) Calculate voltage required for given power (ohms + 2V is only true for 8 watts)
correct calculation for anything else is V^2 = W x R
so for 6.5 watts on a Protank coil of 2.4 ohm this is sqr(6.5 x 2.4) which is the square root of 15.6 which is 3.9V rounded.
4) set voltage
5) vape on
VW procedure for changing to a coil of unknown resistance but using the same power
1) Relace coil or device
2) Vape on
Difference? Just a bit. Of course you could just use trial and error when changing a coil, and I suspect most people do. With experience you get to know ballpark figures and then fumble about from there. Maybe some people just like the fumbling about. I like running V/W/R calculations in my head just for the exercise.
I still use VW when it's available. Some people prefer VV even when VW is available, especially if that's what they started with and they have trouble trusting the device to set by power (watts).
Even though I have VW available on the Vamo, I find I'm able to fine tune better using voltage rather than wattage. If the Vamo were able to adjust in .1 increments on the wattage side, it would be much, much better. So yeah, I tend to stay on the voltage side of the device because I'm able to find that sweet spot easier.
BTW, thanks for all the informative replies. I guess I'm trying to read too much into this or something, but why does Provari only
have VV ?
Have faith, I'll get there
Good question. The people behind the Provari are pretty obviously VV vapers. It's just what *they* prefer. There might be other contributing factors behind the reason for them refusing to incorporate VW into their device: They might not have the coding resources required for the change. There might be a limitation in the hardware that prohibits the device from monitoring resistance on an ongoing basis. They might not be prepared to re-design the circuit when they already have something that's very reliable, or they may no longer have the resources to do so.
Eventually they may incorporate VW, but it might take years. Maybe they never will. Obviously there would have to be some huge changes in thinking.
I know that I would personally be three times more likely to buy a Provari if it had VW, because I see it as a feature that should be included in an APV. Maybe I'll buy one anyway, but I'm not saving up for one right now.
Some people think it's perfect the way it is right now, while other's see it as a sign that the Provari is not keeping up with the state of the art in vaping technology. (...and some people will want to burn me at the stake for even saying this).
The Provari still does what it was intended to do, and does it very well - at the end of the day you have to make up your own mind whether a VV only device with those other features (like build quality and reliability) are what you need.
What? You haven't converted your plugs yet?
Yes. They make wall plugs that also have USB plugins.
I thought that's what bobbie pins are for. Okay, what it a newbie sticks it in their eye?
Have another think, because it's not that bad. The volts function incorporates the inverse square law, so it HAS to be fine tuned in 0.1V increments.
Your voltage range is 3V to 6V in 0.1V increments. That is 31 discreet settings
your power range is 3W to 15W in 0.5W increments. That is 25 discreet settings.
Both of these have the same range on normal resistance or high resistance coils. There's really not that much difference in one step between the two. There's some cheaper devices out there that do VW but do it 1W steps, and start at a fairly high 6W. I'd advise people to keep this in mind when buying VW on the cheaper end of the scale, but there's really very little problem with 0.5W steps on a device. 0.1W steps would just be ridiculous (because of the inverse square factor - I don't really want 121 discreet settings.
For example on a 2 ohm coil, 6.5 Watts is 3.6 volts
6 watts on the same coil is 3.464.
If you equate that to VV settings of 3.6V and 3.5V, the error factor is 0.036V, not enough to matter - it's unlikely you could tell the difference. How long you hold the button down will have a far greater impact on how hot the coils gets.
I don't really check anything. I know the resistance of my tank cartos because I bought them! I have a box of standard length that is 2.5Ω and another that is 3.0Ω. I use them in different tanks, since I plan in advance what juice I'm going to put in them. I buy 2.0Ω XL cartos for tanks that size. I bought 1.7Ω non-tank cartos, and my dripping attys are 1.5Ω (306s) and 2.2Ω (510s). For the Protanks, in my experience they like it cool, no matter what the resistance is so I start them about 3.7v or 6w and dial up.
Both my VV and VW devices are initially set where I know I like the toppers based on previous experience, then I fine tune it it. + button if it feels too cool, - button if it feels too warm. It's the same for both types of devices. There is one juice that I like better a little hotter as the day goes on, so I may press the + button a couple of times, but that's it. It's easier for me since I don't like to screw off toppers, I rotate devices.
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After seeing it on a Jlove video on YouTube I decided I had to get an ITaste VV because it was SO beautiful! I got a WHITE one and it's, to me, like a "work of art" (especially with my BLACK Kanger T3S).
And it IS square for sure. No more rolling off my desk like my eGo-C's and Vision Spinner!!!
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