Volts vs Watts

[AttyPops]

There's a difference, but as you imply...there's a difference in coils too...so unless you use the same type of coils at different ohms...you end up adjusting it anyway. And the more gunk, the more ohms people apply.

VW is nice if you're swapping different ohm coils around all the time for some reason. But it's not a necessity. If you wind your own coils the auto adjustment may be beneficial. Note the SLR people often use heavy gauge coils and use lots more watts than standard stuff, that makes it vary too. Example: they vape at 15 watts, which would fry a standard coil. They don't do it on VW devices though...but you get the point. It can vary.

Really the whole thing is about watts (and coils). So I wouldn't mind at all if all e-cigs were VW and we just adjusted the wattage +/-.

P.S.
The wattage increment is obviously the programmer's decision on the device. Meh. .25 would be fine for me but .5 is too much IMHO.

 

[nahoku]

Actually... a .5 watt adjustment changes the output by about .1 volts... and a .1 volt adjustment changes power by about .5 watts. The relative output power is just about the same no matter what mode you use. Many people just assume that the .5 W increment change is larger because the number is larger [than the .1 V increment]. Run some calculations to verify for yourself... Ohm's Law Calculations With Power

Beyond that, many people, including myself, adjust outputs no matter what mode they're running. For me, the juice is the determining factor.

 

[2legsshrt]

I use watts on my Vamo just because it remembers it, volts you have to reset everytime you turn it off or change batteries but I don't see any difference both work well.

 

[nahoku]

I use watts on my Vamo just because it remembers it, volts you have to reset everytime you turn it off or change batteries but I don't see any difference both work well.

Curious... mine only forgets VV settings if I change the battery. If I turn it off, and then turn it back on, I don't lose my VV settings.

 

[Katya]

I use watts on my Vamo just because it remembers it, volts you have to reset everytime you turn it off or change batteries but I don't see any difference both work well.

I believe it's a safety feature--in case someone switches to an LR atty and forgets the previous high voltage setting. No danger of frying anything with the wattage setting.

 

[Katya]

Actually... a .5 watt adjustment changes the output by about .1 volts... and a .1 volt adjustment changes power by about .5 watts. The relative output power is just about the same no matter what mode you use. Many people just assume that the .5 W increment change is larger because the number is larger [than the .1 V increment]. Run some calculations to verify for yourself... Ohm's Law Calculations With Power

Beyond that, many people, including myself, adjust outputs no matter what mode they're running. For me, the juice is the determining factor.

That's brilliant! Thanks Nahoku! I never bothered to do the math....

You're right!

Very useful information indeed.

 

[Sector000]

both work well.

But VW works better. Always. There is no scenario in which VV works better than VW.

At best, VV approaches VW when the resistance remains constant. In the real world, resistance changes for many reasons.

Even if VV works as well as VW (and it does not), watts is still better than volts from a user's perspective. The simple fact is watt is a unit of power, and volt is a unit of potential difference.

 

[LJG514]

But VW works better. Always. There is no scenario in which VV works better than VW.

At best, VV approaches VW when the resistance remains constant. In the real world, resistance changes for many reasons.

Even if VV works as well as VW (and it does not), watts is still better than volts from a user's perspective. The simple fact is watt is a unit of power, and volt is a unit of potential difference.

I agree - although the holy grail ProVari is VV only, and you can get the same outcome adjusting volts vs watts, VW helps ensure consistency across various resistance. Do I still adjust my VW? Yes, but generally only +/- 0.5W (~8).

 

[Sector000]

I agree - although the holy grail ProVari is VV only, and you can get the same outcome adjusting volts vs watts, VW helps ensure consistency across various resistance. Do I still adjust my VW? Yes, but generally only +/- 0.5W (~8).

I understand VW doesn't and can't magically account for different liquids, coil lengths, wicking ability, etc. I'm just just saying VW eliminates resistance as a variable and greatly simplifies usage. That alone should illustrate the superiority of VW over VV, when properly implemented.

Can anyone think of a single reason or situation where VV works better than VW, other than "religious" reasons?

 

[Harplayr]

I understand VW doesn't and can't magically account for different liquids, coil lengths, wicking ability, etc. I'm just just saying VW eliminates resistance as a variable and greatly simplifies usage. That alone should illustrate the superiority of VW over VV, when properly implemented.

Can anyone think of a single reason or situation where VV works better than VW, other than "religious" reasons?

For me VV isn't better, but seeing that there are many other variables in play to get a vape tweaked in, it really makes no difference to me if I go VV or VW...I'm still pressing buttons to adjust for each carto/tank change or when I change juices.

A button press is a button press. IMO there's more than one way to get to the same result and for me neither is better than the other as it takes the same amount of effort for me to get it dialed in using VV or VW.

Now if a Mod would incorporate a heat sensor and molecular density sensor in a closed feedback loop to get rid of the gunk factor and make sure that the vapor density is consistent...I might go gaga over that.

 

[Katya]

I understand VW doesn't and can't magically account for different liquids, coil lengths, wicking ability, etc. I'm just just saying VW eliminates resistance as a variable and greatly simplifies usage. That alone should illustrate the superiority of VW over VV, when properly implemented.

Can anyone think of a single reason or situation where VV works better than VW, other than "religious" reasons?

There is no better or worse. VV gives you but one variable (resistance is the other one) and since what you really need to know is wattage (voltage and resistance combined), you have to do the math yourself. VW gives you the final number--the power (heat) generated by your battery and your atomizer combined.

That's all there is to it.

 

[Harplayr]

There is no better or worse. VV gives you but one variable (resistance is the other one) and since what you really need to know is wattage (voltage and resistance combined), you have to do the math yourself. VW gives you the final number--the power (heat) generated by your battery and your atomizer combined.

That's all there is to it.

And eventually whichever method you use (vv or vw) you end up quickly getting a feel for what you like without doing the math. Using my VV devices, I have no idea what watts I'm vaping at, I just dial it in to where it tastes right. Same goes for when I'm in VW mode.

 

[Katya]

And eventually whichever method you use (vv or vw) you end up quickly getting a feel for what you like without doing the math. Using my VV devices, I have no idea what watts I'm vaping at, I just dial it in to where it tastes right. Same goes for when I'm in VW mode.

Exactly right. I always know my wattage because I've been doing those calculation in my head (or with the help of my Ohm's Law Calculator) for so long, that I have memorized the numbers.

But I still tweak.

 

[Sector000]

For me VV isn't better, but seeing that there are many other variables in play to get a vape tweaked in, it really makes no difference to me if I go VV or VW...

At least with VW, you have one less variable.

Now if a Mod would incorporate a heat sensor and molecular density sensor in a closed feedback loop to get rid of the gunk factor and make sure that the vapor density is consistent...I might go gaga over that.

If removing one variable (resistance) makes no difference, as you stated above, why would you care to remove a different variable?

 

[Sector000]

VV gives you but one variable (resistance is the other one) and since what you really need to know is wattage (voltage and resistance combined), you have to do the math yourself. VW gives you the final number--the power (heat) generated by your battery and your atomizer combined.

I rest my case.

 

[wv2win]

It isn't different.

The reason some people want VW is because when you set a certain wattage on a VW device, it adjusts your volts automatically if you change to a different atty with different ohms.

Also as the resistence of your atty/carto changes with use (as all of them do) it adjusts the power to maintain your settings.

 

[wv2win]

I actually own a few Vamo's, but I never run them in VW. I also own two kicked Naturals which are always running in VW. On my Vamos, I run dual-coil tanks and some clearo's. These delivery devices can give off a burnt taste really easily if the power is too high. On my kicked Naturals, I run a few IGO-L's and a few RBA tanks... similar in ohm settings. I never worry about burnt tastes with my Naturals. Basically what I've learned is that it really depends on the delivery device you're going to run on a particular PV. While the premise of VW is sound, you just can't disregard the delivery devices and how they may react to automated voltage adjustments.

90% of the time I use 1.5 ohm dual coil cartos. Using a Vamo in VV mode or any VV setting will burn the carto. But when I use the DCC's with the Vamo or the Darwin in VW mode, it NEVER burns or has a problem. In fact it makes them come to life. I've been using VW for two years now.

I have had other users tell me the same thing. I can only surmise that some people just don't understand how to use DCC on a VW PV or else there is something wrong with the DCC's they are using or the PV is defective.

 

[AaronM]

Can anyone think of a single reason or situation where VV works better than VW, other than "religious" reasons?

Just because you seem so sure of this, even though there is no "better" then the other. Even though it's all personal opinion of what each person likes... I will give you a factual reason.

Because of the extra logic that must be on the PCB to perform VW output there will be more circuitry. This leads to a greater chance of failure/malfunction of the device. Depending on the quality of the PCB and/or quality control of the manufacturer this could lead to a very large real world difference in the reliability of said device. Not to mention numerous other possibility's that arise by adding in the extra circuitry, many of which have the potential to work against you. By adding VW to the device, you have taken away a "variable" (resistance) and added a new and much more important one. Reliability and dependability of all VW devices, a variable that is not present on VV only PCBs.

 

[Katya]

By adding VW to the device, you have taken away a "variable" (resistance) and added a new and much more important one. Reliability and dependability of all VW devices, a variable that is not present on VV only PCBs.

Could you explain this last part? I don't understand what you're saying here. Sorry--I'm slow.

By adding VW to the device, you have taken away a "variable" (resistance)

How so???

added a new and much more important one.

What do you mean?

Reliability and dependability of all VW devices, a variable that is not present on VV only PCBs.

?

 

[AaronM]

Computer calculations are performed by the logic of the processor and/or are located elsewhere on the printed circuit board (PCB). This increases the size and complexity of both parts. The larger and more complex a PCB or processor is, the greater chance of failure. If you take a VV only device and added VW circuitry to the device you have added new and more parts. Parts that do not have a chance to fail on VV only devices because they don't exist. Adding those parts has added a new variable to the device. And that variable is the reliability of those parts to operate as they are supposed to. Rule number 1 of engineering should always be keep it simple. The more you add to something the more there is a chance for it to break, because there is more things that could go wrong.

The variable you removed is the resistance of your attys by adding VW. However, only on paper does that really work and VW will never truly work as advertised.

Not to say I have anything wrong with VW or that that all will break and VV never will. However on paper a VV device is more dependable. I just wanted to make a point.