VTR coming need help with dealing with variable voltage and wattage

[jaybirdtherangerfan]

Provari user using DID rba's. The tanks coming with the VTR have either 1.5 or 1.8 ohm atomizers, what should my initial settings be with the unit and what should I titrate them to? Puzzled by the variable wattage, a little insight would help.

 

[State O' Flux]

You can start at 8-9 watts and go from there. The DTC iClears tend to work better with higher, rather than lower power settings than a conventional SBC atty does, so you may find your best vape at 10 or 11 watts.
In the simplest of terms, VW is a sort of "set it and forget it" mode, in that once you find your favorite wattage for a particular juice/atty type, the microprocessor will adjust voltage based on your wattage and the read atty resistance.

 

[jaybirdtherangerfan]

Do I mess with the voltage as well?

 

[State O' Flux]

Do I mess with the voltage as well?

You can... treat it just as you would your Provari. The VW and VV settings are "independent" in the sense that on VV, what ever you set it at, it will hold that setting.
On VW, the volts "self-adjust" based on wattage and microprocessor read resistance... however, unless something changes, a resistance increase for example, the voltage will remain relatively constant as well.

You don't adjust them "both"... as some might have you believe. ;-)

 

[State O' Flux]

If you don't mind a longer read... this may clear a few things up for you.

Taking The Mystery Out Of Variable Wattage - Spinfuel Magazine

 

[jaybirdtherangerfan]

You can start at 8-9 watts and go from there. The DTC iClears tend to work better with higher, rather than lower power settings than a conventional SBC atty does, so you may find your best vape at 10 or 11 watts.
In the simplest of terms, VW is a sort of "set it and forget it" mode, in that once you find your favorite wattage for a particular juice/atty type, the microprocessor will adjust voltage based on your wattage and the read atty resistance.

If my atty ohm choice is either 1.5, 1.8, or 2.5 ohm, is their a rule of thumb as to lower ohm or higher works better?

 

[spaceman84]

Wattage is a straight forward measure of how much heat is being produced. Rather than needing to calculate output with resistance and voltage, the variable wattage mods do the math for you. 8W is 8W regardless of the resistance. Whether you use a 1.5 ohm or 2.5 ohm head, it will output however many watts of heat that you set the mod to.

 

[Mike.S]

There's no magic or complexity. For both VV and VW, more is more, less is less. If you don't change "toppers," there's no difference. If you put different things on your power source (battery), using VW simply means fewer, less radical adjustments than VV.

Peeves - VV is really CV - sure, you control (vary) it, but you're telling it to deliver a Constant Voltage. VW is the same only different, it's actually Constant Wattage. Plain batteries with no electronics provide VV/VW - the Voltage/Wattage varies as you drain the battery. And that terminology come from a long history of professional, lab grade, voltage sources/power supplies.