VW or Mech?

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ubergeek922

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So i've only been vaping about 2 months, started with some cig-a-likes, bought a twist. I like the twist, I know ohms law and the resistances of my attys so changing wattage on the fly is easy enough. I would now like to move on to something a bit more fun. I've been looking at a Vamo due to the price point or a cheap mech such as a k100 and an rba. Any reason to chose one over the other right now? The Vamo looks nice, but I don't see too much merit in VW if I can do V²/R just as easy. I'm not intimidated by the prospect of building coils so I think I'm leaning the mech way. Opinions?
 

SirSteve

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If you have a knack for tinkering a mechanical and RBA might be a good choice, most people don't normally recommend a mechanical for a person with only two months in, but everyone is different. From what I have read the K100 is fairly well regarded, especially at its price.

Do yourself a favor and do some reading on mechanicals, battery safety and RBA's. Also a multimeter is a good idea.

Vamo is great low price APV, but it is not for everyone.
 

ubergeek922

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I have the knowledge for the electrical side, and as a journeyman electrician I've gathered my share of Flukes. Not worried about that part at all. Perhaps I should clarify the intent of my question: Does the Vamo, SVD, Provari, etc, offer any advantages over the mech aside from requiring less thinking? If so, what advantages?
 

dr g

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The vamo-level APVs basically offer a more robust experience similar to your twist. It will give you a wider power range and finer control. The mechanical allows you to work with the fringe stuff but lacks the refinement of regulation.

To use an imperfect analogy, your twist is like a mid-power 4-speed auto trans car, the vamo level is like a full-power 6-speed auto trans car. the mech is like a manual transmission bare chassis, and you have to pick what power level, mild to wild.
 
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Asmotron

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I jumped feet first into a mech and a genesis RBA as my first step after my Volt cigalike. I got a Sigelei #20 and an AGA-T2. I started playing with silica and. ~.9-1 ohm coils. It was pretty interesting and fun but I soon got bored of it and picked up an SVD. I'm loving the adjustable nature of the SVD but also ordered SS mesh and today to start playing with true Genesis stye wicks/coils on my mech.

That being said, I say get a cheapy of both - the Sigelei #24 looks like it fixed a lot of the "problems" with the #20 firing mechanism, and the lock ring and d-ring are removeable. Plus it can be setup as a top or bottom (pinky/palm) button.

I guess it's all in which way you like to tinker - with computers (vv/vw) or with muscle cars (mechs/rbas). ;)
 

Ryedan

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I have the knowledge for the electrical side, and as a journeyman electrician I've gathered my share of Flukes. Not worried about that part at all. Perhaps I should clarify the intent of my question: Does the Vamo, SVD, Provari, etc, offer any advantages over the mech aside from requiring less thinking? If so, what advantages?

As an electrician I suspect you know this, but I'll mention it just in case. Regulated power supplies give you regulated power and have safety features built in. Some are more accurate than others under load and/or battery charge level. Mechanical mods output pure battery power with of course no safety features included.

I would not use my AGA T with a 0.6 ohm coil on a regulated power supply. I would not use a mechanical mod with anything but a RBA running coils at under 1.3 or so ohms.

The RBA/mech route gives me the best vape I've ever had. The regulated hardware gives me dependability and convenience that the RBA does not offer.
 

RPadTV

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Given your background, I think you'd have more fun with a mechanical. Sub-ohm vaping can be very enjoyable and it sounds like something you'd enjoy.

For an inexpensive mech, EHPro's EA clone is one of the best China clones I've seen. It's certainly the best clone I've used personally.

Then I'd suggest getting an RDA that lets you use dual-coils. There are a few Nimbus clones out there, but I don't if they're any good. You can sometimes find good deals on the Nimbus in the classifieds.
 
I like the ego twist but like the 1300 mah vision spinners alot more. I'm mainly a telescoping mech lover now with RDAs and some times use a kick. but can get enormous performance with out it. = fresh 18650 with new coil and good juice. Through lots of trial and error I've learned cheap stuff can perform well if modfied like the octopus. I still like a fresh atty or carto once in awhile but the RDAs are where it's at for me. 95% of the clearomizers out there i do not like. My VW is a Sigelei Zmax and loved it for 1 month but the button acts up now. havn't heard bad things about vamo. They seem very popular, I just don't like the looks of em. My OPINION is if I where to get another VW I would spend the extra for a Provari usa made because there alot going on when you push a VWs button. My favorite set ups i have now is KTS (gg clone) with igoL or octopus. ( modify a must ) , vision spinners with vision eternity rda love the vision eternity and pbusardo rated very high. and i do LR attys on my Alpha 100% mech from altsmoke batts are only 14500 and alpha is 85.00 but well made and pocket friendly.
 

dr g

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Unfortunately, atomizer resistance is stated minimum 1.0 ohm on the datasheet for the DNA 20D.

That data sheet is inaccurate on that point, they will go below 1 ohm, I have a .7 ohm coil on mine right now.

That said, you can also push similar kind of power through higher resistance coils due to the general robustness of the board.
 
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bapgood

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Unfortunately, atomizer resistance is stated minimum 1.0 ohm on the datasheet for the DNA 20D.

The DNA20 is regulated to 1.0ohm, which it only does at certain wattage settings and battery voltage. When the DNA20 ohm level and wattage are below the regulating threshold it goes into unregulated mode, which basically turns the DNA into a very efficient electronic switch. In unregulated mode I get the DNA to run sub ohm coils with much less vdrop at the atty (0.2v or less with fresh battery and 0.7 ohm coil) which is to much IMO.

With the DNA I actually like to run the coil ohm up a little and stay in regulated mode, I can get a great mech like vape that is regulated so I get as close as possible to the same vape all the way through the battery life.

Mechs are decent, but I prefer the DNA.

I also put the DNA in a class of its own right now as far as VW goes.
 

ubergeek922

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For an inexpensive mech, EHPro's EA clone is one of the best China clones I've seen. It's certainly the best clone I've used personally.

I love the look of that. Nice clean lines, nothing garish. However, until the wife gets back to work it's a strict budget of $50, in which I have to include batteries and charger. Which is one reason I considered the vamo. It's exactly 50 shipped, has Panasonics and the i2 charger. I figured I could always try getting a cheap mech body later, at least I would have a usable vamo until then. Take the vamo to get started or a mech I can't use yet, oh the trials life has given me.... :)
 

ubergeek922

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Then I'd suggest getting an RDA that lets you use dual-coils. There are a few Nimbus clones out there, but I don't if they're any good. You can sometimes find good deals on the Nimbus in the classifieds.

Having never used an rba, let me ask this: looking at some different styles I see single coil designs with 2 posts, and dual coil designs with three. Why can't 2 coils be placed on opposite sides of a 2 post setup since that would be electrically the same as two coils with a common connection? Or can it be done but is just harder? Hopefully that makes sense, there's usually a bump or two between the image in my brain and the thumbs that are typing it.
 

dr g

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The DNA20 is regulated to 1.0ohm, which it only does at certain wattage settings and battery voltage. When the DNA20 ohm level and wattage are below the regulating threshold it goes into unregulated mode, which basically turns the DNA into a very efficient electronic switch. In unregulated mode I get the DNA to run sub ohm coils with much less vdrop at the atty (0.2v or less with fresh battery and 0.7 ohm coil) which is to much IMO.

With the DNA I actually like to run the coil ohm up a little and stay in regulated mode, I can get a great mech like vape that is regulated so I get as close as possible to the same vape all the way through the battery life.

Mechs are decent, but I prefer the DNA.

I also put the DNA in a class of its own right now as far as VW goes.

The DNA 20 actually does regulate below 1 ohm, for example with a ~.9 ohm at 20w my mod shows boosting up to 4.34. With a .7 ohm however at the moment I'm seeing some inconsistent results so I need to examine that a bit more. Could be because that falls into technically the "buck" range for a portion of the battery charge.

Having never used an rba, let me ask this: looking at some different styles I see single coil designs with 2 posts, and dual coil designs with three. Why can't 2 coils be placed on opposite sides of a 2 post setup since that would be electrically the same as two coils with a common connection? Or can it be done but is just harder? Hopefully that makes sense, there's usually a bump or two between the image in my brain and the thumbs that are typing it.

Yes, you can run dual coils opposite each other on a 2-post atomizer. The 3-post is just a design decision, and may make it a bit easier to work with one coil at a time rather than both at once. It also allows for a different positioning of the free wick ends.
 
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bapgood

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The DNA 20 actually does regulate below 1 ohm, for example with a ~.9 ohm at 20w my mod shows boosting up to 4.34. With a .7 ohm however at the moment I'm seeing some inconsistent results so I need to examine that a bit more. Could be because that falls into technically the "buck" range for a portion of the battery charge

Yeah there is some variation depending setup, battery voltage, and etc.
 
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