Wattage Help

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jabberwalkie

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Mar 8, 2014
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Can some one explain why I would want a MOD that offers 50w, 100w, 150w. I really don't understand why someone would want something so powerful. Wouldn't the liquid be too hot and cause dry hits?

I only ask cause Im interested in dripping and move into rda's, tired of buying coils. I'm not cloud chasing per se but I would like a bigger hit with stronger intense flavor. I've always used cartomizers and clearomizers with a VV bat that stops a 5v, this setup puts me around 12watts and I find at that high gives me extremely harsh vape. I have searched the forum and really didn't find much explaining why anyone would move to such a high watt device. Any response is greatly welcomed. thanks
 

FFPetz

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Oct 30, 2014
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It has everything to do with where you're going to build your RDAs. If you're going to build your coils like your cartomizers, between 1.5 and 2 ohms, you really don't need a ton of watts. If you sub ohm and are going to do builds with low Guage wire, large coils, or multiple coils, you might want to get your watts over 50 to deliver the power needed to heat the coils up. Excessive heat is an issue more with the airflow of the RDA than it is solely wattage.

One of my personal favorites is a 0.2 ohm build on a CLT2 RDA running between 50 and 75 watts. Its a long skinny coil with lots of surface area that heats up a ton of juice at one time. The CLT2 has massive airflow, so I get a pretty significant, flavor filled hit.

In the end though, it's simply a matter of preference. You can play with an ohms law calculator to see how wattage plays into everything.
 

niczgreat

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The average user with the average equipment doesn't need these High Wattage APV.

They are designed for RBA / RDA that are custom built to certain OHM specifications.

RBA has much larger surface area and the watts are important.

Myself I use a REO and vape at around .24Ohm to .32 OHm which is around 40-50 Watts.
Since my device is a bottom feeder and truly mechanical I don't see the need for anything more.

Some like to vape with Higher Ohm Setups at Higher Voltages to get their desired vaping experience and these Higher Watt Devices are for them. As
none of the higher Watt Devices are Bottom Feeding they don't interest me.
 

Katya

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Can some one explain why I would want a MOD that offers 50w, 100w, 150w. I really don't understand why someone would want something so powerful. Wouldn't the liquid be too hot and cause dry hits?

I only ask cause Im interested in dripping and move into RDA's, tired of buying coils. I'm not cloud chasing per se but I would like a bigger hit with stronger intense flavor. I've always used cartomizers and clearomizers with a VV bat that stops a 5v, this setup puts me around 12watts and I find at that high gives me extremely harsh vape. I have searched the forum and really didn't find much explaining why anyone would move to such a high watt device. Any response is greatly welcomed. thanks

Correct. Stock coils are not designed to handle more than ~8 watts per single coil, or so--if you're using dual coils, you'll need more wattage because you're dealing with two higher-ohm coils configured in parallel. Kanger recommends 5.5-7.5watts (per coil).

You may also enjoy reading this thread:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-just-want-understand-high-wattage-users.html
 
For what it's worth, if you're a tank guy wanting something more satisfying I'd go for something like a kayfun rather than a dripper. In terms of the power you need it'll be somewhere between a dripper and a tank (I run 14 watts on a 1.2 ohm coil). Not as much of a cloud factory as an RDA, but the flavour is amazing, and the vapour is thick like syrup. Almost feels like you're eating, not vaping.
 
Before you experience a properly built rda it is all just a bunch of numbers that make no sense. Why would any body need more tan 20 watts.
After using a great build on an atty with good airflow you will understand.
:thumbs::hubba:


I found this to be very true. Before I bought my first real mod I always said, "I won't ever need more than 30 watts". I was planning on buying a DNA 30. I went to a new Vapor Shop and they had a DNA 30 clone for $99 and a real iPV2 for $105. I got the iPV2, but really didn't think I'd ever use it above 30 watts. When I finally figured out how to wick a coil correctly and started building twisted Kanthal builds I started using those extra watts. When you have larger wire or several small wires together it takes more power to heat up. My daily driver build is 3 strands of 28 guage twisted together, wrapped 12 times around a 1/8" drill bit. It reads 1.3 ohms and I vape it between 35 & 40 watts. RDA's have enough airflow to keep the vapor semi cool. The flavor is great and vapor production is also good. 2 second pulls are all I need for a satisfying vape.
It kinda is one of those things you just have to experience for yourself. If you've got a friend who builds or a local vapor shop with a setup you can try I would recommend you give it a try. You may like it. I know I did. I used to use an Aspire Nautilus all day, every day. Now I drip all day with my Plume Veil clone and my iPV2 and I wouldn't want to go back to my old setup. The new one is so much more enjoyable.
 

rusirius

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So if I am to understanding this right, the larger builds need the higher powers to heat up faster and evenly. If I switch to a rebuildable, if I keep the ohms around 1.5-2ohms I still wont really need a 50w+ device?

No, that's not accurate... First let me direct you to a post that I put up not too long ago... Clicky Clicky

It might help you understand a little bit, though it's not by any means a direct answer to your original question.

In it's most simple terms... Wattage is a measurement of how much energy we are putting into a device. In this case, our coils, that means it's how much heat we are putting into a device. It's NOT a measurement of temperature... Heat and Temperature are sometimes confused as being the same... But they aren't... If you take a blow torch and put it up to a block of ice, the ice, even right under the blow torch is still going to be 32 degrees... if it wasn't, it wouldn't be ice... It melts on the surface, and that water carries away the heat... but the ice itself remains 32 degrees. So even though we are putting a lot of heat energy into it, the temperature stays the same because the heat is being carried away.

So how much wattage you put into your coil(s) is how much heat or energy you are putting into them... So now we have to think about the other side of the equation, and that's how much heat we can carry away...

When the coil is energized and the wick is supplying liquid (juice) to the coil, that juice turns to vapor. That vapor is then carried away into your mouth and the heat along with it. So the process of vaporization is absorbing the energy being put into the coil and then that energy is being carried away.

So... there are a number of factors that determine how much energy we can put into our system. If we have large coils (rather larger gauge wire or in my preference, larger surface area coils) we distribute that energy over a larger surface area. This means more "contact" with juice which can then absorb that energy while turning into vapor. Then if we have very large air holes and move a lot of air through our system we are able to remove that vapor (and therefore the energy) quickly.

On the other hand, if we have a small tank, say a clearomizer with relatively small coils, small and slow wicking material, and very little air flow, we can't deliver much heat energy into the system because we don't have the means to carry that energy away fast enough.

So you can have one setup with slow wicking medium (let's say silica), small coils and very small air flow that will taste burnt and hot at say 10 watts... On the other hand I can have another setup with very fast wicking medium (let's say rayon), large coils with lots of surface area, and very large air holes that allow massive amounts of air to flow through, and it'll give a very nice cool vape at say 60 watts..

So the ultimate question then comes down to why would you want to make these "improvements" to run higher wattage... Why use fast wicks, large surface area coils, lots of airflow, etc to run high wattage? Because the more energy you can deliver into the system, the more vapor you're going to get out of it. More vapor (assuming it's done right) means more flavor.

Hope that helps!
 

Frocket

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Aug 4, 2013
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Yup.

It's all about the coil size, the wicking capability, and airflow airflow airflow - those of us using higher wattages / power are usually doing direct to lung inhales. Pulling the vapor into the mouth, and then into the lungs doesn't move much air. Pulling directly to the lungs allows a much larger volume of air to be passed over the coil. Larger coils have more surface area to spread the heat out, and saturated cotton or rayon supplies plenty of liquid.

All three of these factors remove heat from the coil - larger coils with more mass spread the energy out over a large area. Better wicking material and especially larger airflow, provide a means of taking all that energy away from the coil itself, so the coil doesn't get hot enough to burn the liquid.

What's the point? Well, higher wattage means pushing a lot of energy into the coils. All that energy is doing something - with a proper build, it's creating more vapor. A lot more. Picture someone pulling on 10-12 clearomizers simultaneously - obviously, there's going to be a lot more vapor than just one will provide.

Of course, it also means a hell of a lot more nicotine, which is why I use low nic levels (3mg). Also why a 30ml bottle lasts less than a week.

BOOM!
 

Smann245

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Aug 16, 2014
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As others have said, it's all about having the right power supply for the load you're applying the power to. Heating 1oz of water to boiling in 10 seconds requires less power than heating 10oz of water to boiling in 10 seconds. The amount of metal in a coil in a clearomizer is much less than the amount of metal being heated in a rebuildable. If you look at pictures of a clearomizer coil and pictures of typical rda coils, it should be obvious. If its not, keep using clearomizers.
 
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