does a higher wattage and lower resistance mean better? if so, why? if not, why?
and what would you recommend for both?
The quick answer is NO.
You also need to define what the word "better" means to YOU.
The Provari from Provape sort of set the gold standard for excellence when it was first introduced in 2010. Considered underpowered by some by todays standards (and even when it was introduced), it continued to maintain its reputation of excellence by a genre of MTL "Tootle Puffers" who vaped high resistance, low power. Provape caved in to the FDA's Deeming Regulations earlier this year and is no longer produced.
Why Provari?
I bring up the US made Provari because it was considered a relatively expensive mod at the time at $200. Critics would complain that you could get a Chinese mod with more power and all the "bells & whistles" for $75. There was no way Provape could get around the additional costs of an American made product. Yet Provari owners were so loyal to the company that many purchased multiple Provari's; not because they had to, but because they wanted to.
To answer your own question, ask yourself does the way you vape require higher wattage and low resistance right now? Are you a mouth-to-lung (MTL) vaper, or a deep-lung vaper? A MTL vaper can easily get by with a lower powered device, but a deep lung cloud chaser will likely require a high wattage regulated mod that can fire sub-ohm coils.
Even if your basic power requirements are minimal, a high wattage mod can also mean a device which has longer battery life between charges. Many of these 75 watt plus mods are two or three battery devices -- if you use them at lower wattages then the battery life will last 2 - 4 days between charges.
Most of today's manufacturers seem to be in a race to make the most powerful mod on the market. All that power doesn't necessarily mean its a better product, especially when that product can't actually put out the advertised specification when tested (ie Segelei 213).
I have the Segelei Fuchai 213 Plus as my backup mod. I'm aware of the discrepancies in advertised vs real specs, but because I vape under 40 watts it doesn't matter to me that the 213 can't put out 213 watts or has lousy temperature control (which I don't use). It's still a good looking, reliable, 2-battery regulated mod that meets MY needs in wattage mode.
"Better" to me means excellence in design, manufacturing, aesthetic appeal, durability, reliability, intuitiveness, manufacturer support after the sale. I've owned 3 Provaris, an Altsmoke Silver Bullet mech, and a Reo bottom feeder mech mod. All of these, IMHO, were "better" mods compared to their competition in their respective class -- then and now. All but the Reo are now no longer manufactured, and the manufacturer of the Reo is now semi-retired.
For the first 3 - 4 years of my vaping history I was a Tootle Puffer. Then when I began using rebuildables (making my own coils) a couple of years ago, I became a direct lung, high wattage, low resistance vaper. Speaking for myself, vaping has been a long journey and my vaping preferences have evolved over that time.
Currently, my primary mod is the JAC Vapour Series B 75W. There's a lot that I like about this mod. I think it looks sexy. Size, comfort and form factor, DNA chip, ergonomic design, customer support reputation. I'm not happy with the rubberized paint finish because it scratches easy, so I have ordered a protective skin for it. Rumor has it that a stainless steel version is on the horizen.
