What am I simulating with a LR Cartomizer

[IMWylde]

Using my Bartleby at what I suppose to be 3.7V with a low resistance cartomizer at 1.5-1.7 ohm what voltage am I simulating.

I am overjoyed with the hits I'm getting but feel like it may be a better and more reliable idea to go with a higher voltage and regular carto's and atty's.

Is this the case or is it 6 of one half dozen of another?

 

[Bella Chic]

From what I've heard, it is like vaping at 5 volts, this what I've heard around the forums

 

[IMWylde]

This is actually what I thought as well but I've recently gotten a 5v passthrough and the vapros hit is much less then on my Bartleby with the LR carto.

I had to plug the 5v into the wall with an old iphone usb cube to get it to put out much at all. On my computer with usb 2.0 it hit like a regular 3.? battery box passthrough.

 

[smokum]

Your simulating the heat range you would get with a 5-6 volt device utilizing a standard resistance atty.

It's all about the WATTAGE.....

The only possible advantages "I" could see (really) of purchasing a HV device over a standard e-cig is:

a) typically offers better mAh rated batteries for longer "in between" charging.

b) typically larger in size to possibly suit a persons "style" or "comfort level" of holding the device.

c) an ability to "personalize" to suit a persons style.

d) enjoy the warmth of the vapor a higher voltage device offers with standard parts without needing to search out lower resistant atty's.

e) because a person just wants one.

f) the list goes on & on & on, lol

There are so many possible reasons for each individual, and it all boils down to what that person wants or needs to have this option of inhalation work for them.

Besides, many people will just find themselves wanting a change, and/or to have the latest and greatest.

VapeOn,
Greg

 

[jimho]

Your simulating the heat range you would get with a 5-6 volt device utilizing a standard resistance atty.

It's all about the WATTAGE.....

The only possible advantages "I" could see (really) of purchasing a HV device over a standard e-cig is:

a) typically offers better mAh rated batteries for longer "in between" charging.

b) typically larger in size to possibly suit a persons "style" or "comfort level" of holding the device.

c) an ability to "personalize" to suit a persons style.

d) enjoy the warmth of the vapor a .higher voltage device offers with standard parts without needing to search out lower resistant atty's.

e) because a person just wants one.

f) the list goes on & on & on, lol

There are so many possible reasons for each individual, and it all boils down to what that person wants or needs to have this option of inhalation work for them.

Besides, many people will just find themselves wanting a change, and/or to have the latest and greatest.

VapeOn,
Greg

Agree and more to the point- we make alot of fuss about devices but in the end, most boil down to battery holders- they simply provide voltage from the battery to the atty/carto- they contribute to consistency and overall feel, but the most important part is Voltage and the atty/carto you are using followed how the juice is delivered (i.e. cart, filler, drip)...

I use the attached table frequently and when I try different juices, I use them at different wattages to see how they taste .... you can cross reference your battery voltage with the atty resistance to see the wattage.... mine is built for 510s but you can modify it as you wish...

no magic here - wattage = V²/R = (Voltage)²/Resistance

Most common 510 based combinations =

3.2V, 2.5 Ohms= 4.1 Watts (Standard 510/eGo setup)
3.2V, 1.5 Ohms = 6.8 Watts (Standard 510/eGo with LR atty)
3.7V, 2.5 Ohms= 5.5 Watts (Standard 3.7V Mod, Std 510 atty)
3.7V, 1.5 Ohms= 9.1 Watts (Standard 3.7V Mod, LR atty)
5.0V, 2.5 Ohms= 10.0 Watts (5VMod, Std Atty)
6.0V, 4.2 Ohms=8.6 Watts (6VMod, HR 4.2 atty)
6.0V, 2.5 Ohms=14.4 Watts (6VMod, Std Atty)

more details in the attached table...

 

[IMWylde]

Agree and more to the point- we make alot of fuss about devices but in the end, most boil down to battery holders- they simply provide voltage from the battery to the atty/carto- they contribute to consistency and overall feel, but the most important part is Voltage and the atty/carto you are using followed how the juice is delivered (i.e. cart, filler, drip)...

I use the attached table frequently and when I try different juices, I use them at different wattages to see how they taste .... you can cross reference your battery voltage with the atty resistance to see the wattage.... mine is built for 510s but you can modify it as you wish...

no magic here - wattage = V²/R = (Voltage)²/Resistance

Most common 510 based combinations =

3.2V, 2.5 Ohms= 4.1 Watts (Standard 510/eGo setup)
3.2V, 1.5 Ohms = 6.8 Watts (Standard 510/eGo with LR atty)
3.7V, 2.5 Ohms= 5.5 Watts (Standard 3.7V Mod, Std 510 atty)
3.7V, 1.5 Ohms= 9.1 Watts (Standard 3.7V Mod, LR atty)
5.0V, 2.5 Ohms= 10.0 Watts (5VMod, Std Atty)
6.0V, 4.2 Ohms=8.6 Watts (6VMod, HR 4.2 atty)
6.0V, 2.5 Ohms=14.4 Watts (6VMod, Std Atty)

more details in the attached table...

Incredibly helpful.
Should be sticky.

All I can think of is with my 5v passthrough I'm not getting enough juice thru the USB. Ima fool with it some more.

 

[BuzzKill]

Well guys there are 2rd generation Pv's out there that vary the voltage instead of using various resistance atomizers !
I theory and practice you just adjust the voltage to set the POWER or HIT so you can use any atomizer and tune it in , also you can tune the FLAVOR in as well.

So as most mods are battery holders the new 3rd generation PV's have taken it a step further , ANY power / voltage ( with in specs ) is available.

 

[jimho]

Incredibly helpful.
Should be sticky.

All I can think of is with my 5v passthrough I'm not getting enough juice thru the USB. Ima fool with it some more.

Possible... a bit more math/electronics 101..

Ohms Law: Current=Voltage/Resistance or I= V/R
Power(P)= IE (current*voltage) = (V/R) *V= V²/R


Your USB port is rated at 500mA default (although may push as much as 1.5A) ...

Best case, you can get at 5 volts and 1.5A is 5*1.5= 7Watts... if you are getting the default out of your USB port, you're more likely looking at 2.5 Watts.....
This will be because the voltage is fixed and the current is limited...

 

[BuzzKill]

Use this Ohm's Law Calculator

 

[jimho]

Use this Ohm's Law Calculator

sure...the reason I put it in a table is because it's easier to see what's going on visually than calculating each voltage..
This way it's a bit easier to see and understand that a small difference in voltage makes a relatively bigger difference in power than the same change in resistance.....

but same difference..

IMO -better to have users undestand and remember that I=E/R and P=IE than to rely on calculators...

 

[jimho]

... and we don't all use a Buzz where we can dial in the exact voltage....so having a table that lists standard voltage and atty combos makes sense when you have multiple fixed voltage batterys and multiple fixed resistance atty's to choose from.

 

[Kent C]

I'd add that there isn't any 'simulating' going on - it's actual wattage and a matter of the voltage and the resistance used.

 

[jimho]

I'd add that there isn't any 'simulating' going on - it's actual wattage and a matter of the voltage and the resistance used.

exactly- LR atties with lower voltage simulate the experience that people are experiencing with standard atties at High Voltage (5V and up)-

 

[BuzzKill]

FYI a 3.7 volt battery ( actual voltage varies over time and charge ) and a 1.5 ohm LR atty = 9.1 watts .
From what we have discovered over time most people like wattage in the 7-9 watt range .
As you increase the resistance the wattage will go down , decrease the Res. and the wattage goes up

True not everybody uses a variable voltage device , this is a new technology and is catching on just a bit.
The future of PV's will be changing fast , the days of none controlled Pv's is falling away IMO , even the starter kits are starting to go into regulated voltages ( some already do it ! )

PWM or boosted voltage devices are coming also ( there are some out there already )

That is a good chart guys !

 

[jimho]

FYI a 3.7 volt battery ( actual voltage varies over time and charge ) and a 1.5 ohm LR atty = 9.1 watts .
From what we have discovered over time most people like wattage in the 7-9 watt range .
As you increase the resistance the wattage will go down , decrease the Res. and the wattage goes up

True not everybody uses a variable voltage device , this is a new technology and is catching on just a bit.
The future of PV's will be changing fast , the days of none controlled Pv's is falling away IMO , even the starter kits are starting to go into regulated voltages ( some already do it ! )

PWM or boosted voltage devices are coming also ( there are some out there already )


That is a good chart guys !

Agree- the Buzz Varivolt set the bar in many ways - it's great to see the new toys comming out every day- my next mod will definitely be vairable voltage....

Re PWM- I believe there are some threads somwhere showing the eGo output loaded on an oscilloscope- it is a PWM device so even though the battery is a 3.7V battery, the RMS voltage is closer to 3.2V (and why I have 3.2 in the chart)..... as mentioned the eGo adds another intersting twist by modifying the air flow over the atty changing the efficiency...

RE Battery depletion- quite true...let's take it all the way though... you must use the loaded voltage, not the labeled output of the battery- to keep it simple, loaded voltage would be the measured voltage when you put a volt meter across the atty/cart while it's energized... Depending on your device and battery, that voltage may be significantly different than unloaded as well as at different points in time as you deplete the battery. Protected batterys tend to exhibit less of a problem here and devices with built in regulators all but eliminate the problem as the battery degrades...

Isn't the Buzz amoung those with built in regulators or is the pot part of the power circuit? To be honest it was on my shortlist when I got the V3 but you didn't have the 510 top and I couldn't wait....

 

[BuzzKill]

We use a LDO regulator to control the voltage. The pot is NOT in the power circuit ( I.E. it controls the voltage but draws very little current ) .

A pwm circuit that lowers the voltage is called a " Buck " regulator.
I am talking about a buck-boost regulator that allows you to go from 3.7 to 6 volts , this give you the voltage adjustment range with 1 battery .

And YES loaded voltages are all that really matter when you are calculating actual wattage , the loaded voltage is about 15-25 % lower than the unloaded voltage depending on battery charge .

 

[Takeone]

To the op. The iPhone charger is 1a. I have heard that to get optimal hit on a passthrough you need a 2amp charger.

 

[BuzzKill]

Ya you really want a 3 amp one IF you use LR attys !!
Try one of the USB external units they are available in higher current ratings

 

[jimho]

We use a LDO regulator to control the voltage. The pot is NOT in the power circuit ( I.E. it controls the voltage but draws very little current ) .

A pwm circuit that lowers the voltage is called a " Buck " regulator.
I am talking about a buck-boost regulator that allows you to go from 3.7 to 6 volts , this give you the voltage adjustment range with 1 battery .

And YES loaded voltages are all that really matter when you are calculating actual wattage , the loaded voltage is about 15-25 % lower than the unloaded voltage depending on battery charge .

Just looked that one up... we didn't have those on chips back when I was in EE school.... very cool - now I'm starting to have some buyer's remorse ;-)

 

[garyinco]

Learned from others here...

You are trying to get your wattage adjusted into a sweet spot. Most say the sweet spot is between 6.0 and 8.5 watts.

Watts = volts*volts/ohm resistance.

Below is a spreadsheet I copied from here that shows the relationship. I didn't come up with this table, just applied the formula to the spreadsheet and recreated it showing some of the newer LR atomizers.

The green is the target zone. Red is supposedly too high, but I've blown atomizers at 2.3ohms with five volts - and that is below the red zone!