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No faulty electronics. I think there is a small loss in power on non mechanical mods. Electronics are usually heavier priced than non. Just a few but there sure are more.
/Jan
/Jan
Most seem very bulky to me. Yesterday I was in my local BM and they all had mechanical mods. I asked them how they liked it and they swore by it however I never got a good answer as to why they were better. Seems like a lot more work to me and looks more like what some may think was illegal paraphanelia.
Just that they are durable.
Fewer parts + no tech to screw up = less likely to fail.
Fewer parts + no tech to screw up = less likely to fail.
i have been fascinated with mech mods and am hesitant to dive in. i am getting into recoiling and figured once I stepped up to full on rba's with ss mesh and what not, that the next step would be a mech. however, i am still unsure as to the benefits of going mech at this moment. I think it has something to do with being able to use low ohm coils, I have no idea what that would mean vapor wise.
Honestly, I don't feel there is anything better about them. I like them and it's what I use. However, if you are happy with an eGo type setup then keep using that. Going the mechanical route turns into a hobby or addiction. Many have dubbed it shinyitis.
The reason I use/love mechanical mods. (The Reo Grand) Is because I'm a HUGE clutz. I tend to talk with my hands and if anything is sitting in there, it can go flying with no warning. 
I've dropped mine in the ocean, on concrete, ceramic tile etc, with NO damage except for minor scratches and broken drip tips. For (ME) I can't use anything else or I'd be spending a fortune in replacement mods. It really is all up to your particular life style and what works for you. IMHO you can go either way mechanical/electronic and be very successful.
I've dropped mine in the ocean, on concrete, ceramic tile etc, with NO damage except for minor scratches and broken drip tips. For (ME) I can't use anything else or I'd be spending a fortune in replacement mods. It really is all up to your particular life style and what works for you. IMHO you can go either way mechanical/electronic and be very successful.
There are as many different answers to that question as there people that use them.
I first got a mechanical because I wanted a back up PV that would work no matter what. Subscribing to the theory that if you can't use your back up PV for a hammer and then still vape it, it isn't a reliable back up.
Many buy mechanicals because of the lack of an amperage limit. Personally I think amp limiters are a good thing. There are a couple of threads on the general forum right now that explain why. With a mechanical PV the user becomes the safety features normally found in electronic PV's. Common sense seems to be hard to come by lately.
I first got a mechanical because I wanted a back up PV that would work no matter what. Subscribing to the theory that if you can't use your back up PV for a hammer and then still vape it, it isn't a reliable back up.
Many buy mechanicals because of the lack of an amperage limit. Personally I think amp limiters are a good thing. There are a couple of threads on the general forum right now that explain why. With a mechanical PV the user becomes the safety features normally found in electronic PV's. Common sense seems to be hard to come by lately.
I wouldn't say "advantages," but, rather, differences. Durable, simple, attractive, mechanical vs. digital/analog (preference), small form factor, reliable, etc. A preference, I think. I have several of both. Just getting into RBA's, and am challenged by matching coils/resistance to battery/mech. Copper, brass, stainless, etc. also feels good in the hand, a sense of simple quality. They do less, and require more. I have yet to buy anything other than a clone. I'm beginning to understand the appeal. There's an elegance there that's difficult to put into words. The exquisite craftsmanship on some of them is breathtaking, and easily appreciated. Why do some like to work on old cars? New ones just plug into a computer. Similar, a desire to work with one's hands. Less is more. I think I get it, and the attraction is growing. Here we go again!
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I have a question about vv/vw devices. My friend just got a vamo. Pretty awesome rig but I can't really tell any difference in vape quality from my itaste 3.0 and the vamo with the same tank screwed on. There was a difference in power though. I had to run 8 watts on the itaste to get the same flavor as the vamo on 7 watts.
I'm definitely going to get a vamo and maybe an svd or mvp but I unless I'm totally out to lunch I think the main difference is sturdiness and battery life compared to the itaste 3.0. Is this right or am I missing something?
I'm definitely going to get a vamo and maybe an svd or mvp but I unless I'm totally out to lunch I think the main difference is sturdiness and battery life compared to the itaste 3.0. Is this right or am I missing something?
Quicker Face peels
But seriously, the original concept of the Mechanical was to provide a reliable power supply with minimal parts to fail. A simple momentary switch between the Battery and Atomizer. i.e. a flashlight base with modified switch.
A mechanical mod can reach lower resistance operation than electronic components are designed to handle safely.
DNA 20 is Nice, but still relies on the Wiring being able to handle the heat load.
Think table lamp with a 500 watt bulb installed. now double the Wire gauge to support load.
But seriously, the original concept of the Mechanical was to provide a reliable power supply with minimal parts to fail. A simple momentary switch between the Battery and Atomizer. i.e. a flashlight base with modified switch.
A mechanical mod can reach lower resistance operation than electronic components are designed to handle safely.
DNA 20 is Nice, but still relies on the Wiring being able to handle the heat load.
Think table lamp with a 500 watt bulb installed. now double the Wire gauge to support load.
For me I got into Mech Mods as I wanted something different, and wanted to get into RBAs.
First thing I noticed was how many great different styles there were and lost of good looking, good performing ones out there.
I liked the sound of having no wires, no electrics, just pop in a battery and away you go.
It would never really break, or fail on you.
After a little time playing with RBAs I couldn't really get on with them.
I have had a love for the iClear 30 tanks for a long time, they work really well, and there's no messing.
So I decided I still wanted to keep on with the Mech mods but just use iClear 30 tanks
In regard to the batteries, first thing was protection, I got some aw protected batteries.
They worked, but with you just using the battery into the Mech mod it was giving you only what the battery was pumping out.
So a fresh charged battery would be a bit too much power right away.
Also then you had to keep track of your vape, as you can easily drain a battery too much.
I then decided to get into the 'Kick' which many talk about.
I got the Kick Clone first off.
What a great little thing for the price, I popped it onto a aw IMR 18500 set the Wattage to what I liked and I have been in heaven since
Each and every vape is great, it stops firing at 3.2 v this thing is wicked
I also bought a real Kick, I will be testing that out once my nice new Roller gets to me.
I don't see me using a Mech mod without a kick anymore, the kick adds that little thing I needed.
First thing I noticed was how many great different styles there were and lost of good looking, good performing ones out there.
I liked the sound of having no wires, no electrics, just pop in a battery and away you go.
It would never really break, or fail on you.
After a little time playing with RBAs I couldn't really get on with them.
I have had a love for the iClear 30 tanks for a long time, they work really well, and there's no messing.
So I decided I still wanted to keep on with the Mech mods but just use iClear 30 tanks
In regard to the batteries, first thing was protection, I got some aw protected batteries.
They worked, but with you just using the battery into the Mech mod it was giving you only what the battery was pumping out.
So a fresh charged battery would be a bit too much power right away.
Also then you had to keep track of your vape, as you can easily drain a battery too much.
I then decided to get into the 'Kick' which many talk about.
I got the Kick Clone first off.
What a great little thing for the price, I popped it onto a aw IMR 18500 set the Wattage to what I liked and I have been in heaven since
Each and every vape is great, it stops firing at 3.2 v this thing is wicked
I also bought a real Kick, I will be testing that out once my nice new Roller gets to me.
I don't see me using a Mech mod without a kick anymore, the kick adds that little thing I needed.
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As the above poster said, it isn't really an advantage, just different. Say you have a Vamo or Provari. It has all of the bells and whistles, including protection against firing on an atomizer that is lower than 1.3 ohms. With mechanical mods, you can build a coil that is under that. Basically, with mechanical mods, you have more freedom to work on things. If you can build your own atomizers, mechanical mods can really be a fun hobby. If you are planning on using a Protank on a mechanical mod, then a vv/vw mod has more options.
Volts are volts. If the same head tasted differently on two different PV's set at the same voltage either one of them doesn't measure voltage properly, or one of them is restricting the air flow.
Here's why I'm switching to a mechanical REO Grand. They are EMP and static-proof. If you shuffle across carpeting in a low humidity winter environment and grab your PV instead of zapping a kid's ear (mean Grandpa), there are no electronics to damage with static.
It's simple and powerful. For example, an 8/7 turn 26AWG Nichrome or 25 AWG Kanthal 1/16" micro coil (0.5 ohms) delivers 18+ watts to the wick, even with only 3.0 volts across it. What's the max wattage of your regulated PV? Even if you could get 4.0 volts across it under load (not likely at this current draw), that's still at the 8A safe limit of AW IMR 18650s. This easy-to-build, inexpensive, heavy wire micro coil can last for as much as months, with easy replacement of wicks easily made from (practically and literally) free cotton balls. You can't use these sub-ohm coils with most regulated mods.
With a REO Grand, you have a 6ml bottle of juice (like two ProTanks worth), alongside the 18650 battery, feeding the coil in the ceramic based (fewer shorts) Reomizer 2 (RB2) atomizer, with the PV being smaller than a pack of regular length filter cigarettes. It has a "hot spring" which collapses in the event of a short. What's not to like?
It's simple and powerful. For example, an 8/7 turn 26AWG Nichrome or 25 AWG Kanthal 1/16" micro coil (0.5 ohms) delivers 18+ watts to the wick, even with only 3.0 volts across it. What's the max wattage of your regulated PV? Even if you could get 4.0 volts across it under load (not likely at this current draw), that's still at the 8A safe limit of AW IMR 18650s. This easy-to-build, inexpensive, heavy wire micro coil can last for as much as months, with easy replacement of wicks easily made from (practically and literally) free cotton balls. You can't use these sub-ohm coils with most regulated mods.
With a REO Grand, you have a 6ml bottle of juice (like two ProTanks worth), alongside the 18650 battery, feeding the coil in the ceramic based (fewer shorts) Reomizer 2 (RB2) atomizer, with the PV being smaller than a pack of regular length filter cigarettes. It has a "hot spring" which collapses in the event of a short. What's not to like?
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I bought a mech for my first big boy mod as an upgrade from an e-go. I got a Legacy and when I did my research and listened to people who got regulated VV PVs they said the switch fails - ALWAYS. Just a matter of time. With my Legacy all I have to do is screw in the switch. It's Stainless with 1 delrin plastic piece and a spring. I have a kick for it and can also re[lace that. It makes the mod cost over twice as much than MSRP (or sticker price or whatever). I have yet to do so but plan on buying a new switch assembly, flat top 510 adapter, another Kick and a ton of springs and replaceable contact screws. I can pass this thing on to my children (not that that is a good idea, just making a point). It's virtually indestructible. After a bit of research this came to be clear to me and has been the case so far. On the other hand, a mech is only as good as it's design and construction. Hope that helps.
Bulky, not here.
Woah that looks cool...what is it Chris? (Pardon my naiveté but I am still learning my way around here.)
My SVD is nothing more than a Multimeter now. And decoration on my desk. It will not fire a sub 1.3ohm coil. Its a great PV but I prefer the smaller form factor and less restriction of a mechanical.
For me it's no electronics to fail, I have had plenty of crappy devices fail because of them.
The other is the tinker aspect of it. Building a coil and then getting that vape out of it. I don't do sub ohm stuff, but like 1.2 to 1.5 on the mechs. Anything higher and it's not that satisfying FOR ME.
Ken
The other is the tinker aspect of it. Building a coil and then getting that vape out of it. I don't do sub ohm stuff, but like 1.2 to 1.5 on the mechs. Anything higher and it's not that satisfying FOR ME.
Ken
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