What are your top dual parallel unregulated/mech mods as of mid 2015?

[Jbreezy2015]

Sorry I totally spaced out this thread!!! I honestly love it. It's way too clunky to be an on the go box unless you put it in a bag/back pack or something, and then that just defeats the purpose of an on the go rig. But for around the house I love it. All my builds have been twisted 26g Kanthal and I just threw some helix wire with 26g and 30g Kanthal and both builds were great. Both builds were sub .3, the dual helix I'm running now is at .15 I think? Very warm vape on both builds, flavor was fine, didn't smack me in the face but def tasted good. I have the HB6 batteries running in it. I've only been seriously vaping for the better part of 3 months, 2 years on and off so take my review for what it's worth I guess! I would definitely recommend this to others!!

Edit: Also, all of my builds on this box have been in the MutationX V3

 

[Libbydude]

Just picked up my first parallel unregulated box and a Vulcan with all the accessories.

Of the Vulcan I say, meh. Not bad, but....

The box? It features everything that makes reviewers twitch. Battery contacts shred the wrapper, it's huge, nothing sits flush, button mushy and no click, door moves around, and the finish sucks. But hey, for 32 dollars I don't think I could have made it myself.

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[TheWestPole]

Two of my favorites this year: Dimitri and Abaddon.

I left the internals of the Ivogo Dimitri unchanged, but angled all the edges and corners to make it feel better in the hand, and tuned the switch for a shorter throw.

On the Ivogo Abaddon, I removed the graphics and gave the outside a brushed finish. Today I fit a spring loaded 510 (not shown below), removed internal contact beam and made a wired connection instead. Hits more consistently now with less button pressure. Love this hard hitting lightweight dual. Will take detail pics of the modifications tomorrow when the light is better.

 

[Tom Forde]

Two of my favorites this year: Dimitri and Abaddon.

I left the internals of the Ivogo Dimitri unchanged, but angled all the edges and corners to make it feel better in the hand, and tuned the switch for a shorter throw.

On the Ivogo Abaddon, I removed the graphics and gave the outside a brushed finish. Today I fit a spring loaded 510 (not shown below), removed internal contact beam and made a wired connection instead. Hits more consistently now with less button pressure. Love this hard hitting lightweight dual. Will take detail pics of the modifications tomorrow when the light is better.


View attachment 493453View attachment 493452

That box looks just like a Dimitri...could you show a pic of the internals? As for best mech boxes, I think the coolest one as of mid-2015 would be the Nikita Box by Vaping Kiko. Same makers of the Dimitri, but the Nikita is smaller, more aesthetic, and so dumb simple to take apart. The button on it is pretty sweet too.

Above are the pics of a clone because I couldn't find an internal shot of the authentic. Basically everything is held together with magnets, and has an adjustable 510 that you can take out with the removal of one screw. It's a very minimalistic design but at the same time it's pretty different from most of the other parallel mech boxes out there.

 

[TheWestPole]

That box looks just like a Dimitri...could you show a pic of the internals? As for best mech boxes, I think the coolest one as of mid-2015 would be the Nikita Box by Vaping Kiko. Same makers of the Dimitri, but the Nikita is smaller, more aesthetic, and so dumb simple to take apart. The button on it is pretty sweet too. View attachment 493491View attachment 493492Above are the pics of a clone because I couldn't find an internal shot of the authentic. Basically everything is held together with magnets, and has an adjustable 510 that you can take out with the removal of one screw. It's a very minimalistic design but at the same time it's pretty different from most of the other parallel mech boxes out there.

Nikita caught my eye when it came out. Just wish I could complete details of the internals so I could judge whether the switch mechanism is worth taking a chance on and whether the 510 could be retrofit with a spring loaded core.

 

[TheWestPole]

On the Ivogo Abaddon, I removed the graphics and gave the outside a brushed finish. Today I fit a spring loaded 510 (not shown below), removed internal contact beam and made a wired connection instead. Hits more consistently now with less button pressure. Love this hard hitting lightweight dual. Will take detail pics of the modifications tomorrow when the light is better.


View attachment 493453View attachment 493452

Detail pics of the Abaddon fit with a spring loaded 510, and wired to improve the switch consistency and button pressure. Love how this is working now. Not sure about the appearance of the brass spacer needed to make the 510 fit. May just get a 3mm landing pad for the connector and eliminate the spacer.

Whoops. Didn't screw the fire button down all the way when I reassembled. Doesn't stand up like that.

 

[TheWestPole]

That box looks just like a Dimitri...could you show a pic of the internals? As for best mech boxes, I think the coolest one as of mid-2015 would be the Nikita Box by Vaping Kiko. Same makers of the Dimitri, but the Nikita is smaller, more aesthetic, and so dumb simple to take apart. The button on it is pretty sweet too. View attachment 493491Above are the pics of a clone because I couldn't find an internal shot of the authentic. Basically everything is held together with magnets, and has an adjustable 510 that you can take out with the removal of one screw. It's a very minimalistic design but at the same time it's pretty different from most of the other parallel mech boxes out there.

Nikita caught my eye when it came out. Just wish I could complete details of the internals so I could judge whether the switch mechanism is worth taking a chance on and whether the 510 could be retrofit with a spring loaded core.

Found a disassembly picture that shows how the switch contacts work. Looks to me like I could fit a spring loaded 510 in there. Could be worth a try because there's a lot to like about it.

 

[Tom Forde]

Found a disassembly picture that shows how the switch contacts work. Looks to me like I could fit a spring loaded 510 in there. Could be worth a try because there's a lot to like about it.

View attachment 493895

That's a clone. Authentic has all silver plated contacts. I'm sure you could fit a spring loaded 510 in, but there's no need to with the way it's built.
Edit: and thinking about it, a spring loaded 510 may not be the best idea, you may have one atty that pushes down too far and could mess with the metal contact strip. Have we all gotten so lazy as to NEEDING everything to adjust itself? I personally think that it was designed quite nicely.
Here's a review/tear down vid:

 

[TheWestPole]

That's a clone. Authentic has all silver plated contacts. I'm sure you could fit a spring loaded 510 in, but there's no need to with the way it's built.
Edit: and thinking about it, a spring loaded 510 may not be the best idea, you may have one atty that pushes down too far and could mess with the metal contact strip. Have we all gotten so lazy as to NEEDING everything to adjust itself? I personally think that it was designed quite nicely.
Here's a review/tear down vid:

I saw that vid. No patience adjusting center pins when changing attys anymore. (One reason why I modified the Abaddon.) Lazy, I suppose. There will have to be a few changes to accommodate the spring loaded 510 and get everything working safely.

Ordered a Nikita clone yesterday. Will see.

 

[Brandon David]

I rock a BC box for daily carry. That being said, I voided the warranty by doing self repair on it as the switch loosened up and the positive wire to the switch broke within 48 hours of receiving it. Of course, there's nothing much to an unregulated parallel box but I figured for the price, I'd let someone put one together for me for the $25ish above parts price but I wouldn't go to the trouble of sending it back for repair. I probably won't do that again as the 510 loosened up also and I wound up having to fix a couple of wires that broke at the connection of solder over the last couple months and the switch is going out now. I'll probably just order a keystone sled, mitec switch, a new mosfet and a fat daddy 510 and gut/rebuild the box pretty soon.

I may have gotten a dud, but if you're not comfortable with basic wiring/soldering, I wouldn't recommend it.

I always say I won't pay a premium for something I can make myself, but the mybox is damned sexy, IMO.

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[Dextrose]

I rock a BC box for daily carry

picked up the Yoda only issue i had was the 510 a little loose spun when i put my atty on, tighten it up a little and no issues since, my other go to is a MYBox.

 

[Brandon David]

picked up the Yoda only issue i had was the 510 a little loose spun when i put my atty on, tighten it up a little and no issues since, my other go to is a MYBox.

What are your thoughts on the mybox?

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[Dextrose]

@Brandon David Love the MyBox, it is my fav, build quality is top notch, havnt had any issues with it yet.

 

[Brandon David]

Good to know. I think I'll pick one up while I wait on parts to rebuild this guy. Can't hurt to have another box.

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[Dextrose]

@Brandon David I like it so much ill be buying a few more in diff colours, and a dual 26650 version its also very light in the pocket, dont need a 2nd belt to hold my pants up lol

 

[towelie]

The Raptor doesn't work like this. Neither does the Cherry Bomber.

The reason the Dimirti or Abaddon use a separate connection to the 510 is that they are mechanically switching the positive from the batteries by moving that plate. The plate is not a spring though. The spring, or magnets, are in the switch itself.

ETA: It could be done like a tube mod also, where the negative is not connected to the box at all until the switch is pressed, but this would require something like a switch on the bottom of the box... which would be an inconvenient place for most people. Or possibly a lever like the Slug mod... this would make the box much bigger than it needs to be though, especially for a dual battery mod.

could put the posi side down...which would be ideal for venting....

 

[towelie]

The basic design is a metal bar that is in contact with the batteries and another that contacts the 510 connection. To pass current between these bars, there is a thin flat spring, which is pressed in by the button and completes the circuit. I wish I could find a good picture...

I have seen this type of spring fail countless times in other applications. Constantly bending metal causes fatigue and leads to weakening, cracking, and eventually failure. My question is why not mount a chunk of metal to the switch itself and use magnets to hold the circuit open when not in use like many of the tube mods do.

I realize this is most likely never going to be an issue, but watching these flat springs fail in other applications bothers me for some reason. I wish I could use the machine shop for personal projects. Then I could just make my own.

its called a buzzbar iirc......my vote is for the istick 100w, i realize this is regulated...p.z dont gimme any .... about it lol

 

[DaveSignal]

could put the posi side down...which would be ideal for venting....

These mechs will work with the batteries inserted in either direction, as long as they are both in the same direction. The point that I was trying to make is that on a mod like the Raptor or CB, the switched part is the metal casing of the mod itself. As opposed to many other mods where the switched part is the 510 pin (could be either positive or negative from the battery, but whichever way the batteries are inserted, it is switched at the 510 center pin).

Some people think that a switched pin is safer, because it is harder to cause a short externally. With mods like the Raptor or CB, you can short it from the outside if you bridge different metal parts with some other piece of metal. Different mod designers weigh the pros and cons and come up with different ways of doing it.

And the object of going over this difference to begin with is that a mod that switches at the 510 pin needs some kind of metal plate or wire or something to create a connection between battery positive and 510 pin when the switch is pressed. Alternatively, the mods that switch using the metal casing of the box don't need this extra connection, because the switch button is already on the metal of the case.

 

[rhelton]

That's a clone. Authentic has all silver plated contacts. I'm sure you could fit a spring loaded 510 in, but there's no need to with the way it's built.
Edit: and thinking about it, a spring loaded 510 may not be the best idea, you may have one atty that pushes down too far and could mess with the metal contact strip. Have we all gotten so lazy as to NEEDING everything to adjust itself? I personally think that it was designed quite nicely.
Here's a review/tear down vid:

Do you loosen your atty a little when you swap battery's? Not sure how that works but I assume you release the pressure at the 510 a little?

 

[Tom Forde]

Do you loosen your atty a little when you swap battery's? Not sure how that works but I assume you release the pressure at the 510 a little?

No, I don't have a Nikita, I have an authentic Dimitri though. I don't loosen the atty when I swap out my batteries because I'm not worried about hitting the switch. Once I get one full rotation on unscrewing each battery, they're not making contact with the positive contacts.

With the way the switch is set up on the Nikita, I probably wouldn't worry to loosen the atty there either. I could just pull off the rocker that pushes in the switch if I was really worried. The way the switch works is stupid simple, it forces 2 thin plates of silver plated copper to close the circuit. I don't see the need to loosen the atty with either and have never had a problem with my Dimitri.