I use a manger aero tank mini with 1.9 ohm coils and the battery set at 10.5 watts and around 3.8 volts. Any more voltage than that and the vapor tastes burnt. When I put a new cool in I get tons of warm vapor and its perfect for about 3 days then it just sort of fades away. It still burns and if I crank the voltage it sometimes helps but still not like new. The resistance of the coils is still 1.9 ohms so I am confused what's causing it. I have a box full of used coils that seem to be good resistance wise but don't put out vapor and leave you with a mouth full of fluid. I can hear them burning also.
What causes coils to fade?
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Well, first off, nothing is "burning." That's why it's vaping and not smoking. 
I suspect you're experiencing coil and/or wick gunking; the time frame seems right. It's entirely normal, and normally I would advise a dry-burn and rinse, to clean the coil, and then a fresh wick, but I have no idea how the coils in that tank are put together, if that's even possible with those coils. Maybe someone else with experience with that tank can advise.
Also -- you will either be using wattage, or voltage; whichever one you set last is the one you're actually using. When you set voltage, then it's important to know your coil's resistance, so you can set the voltage accordingly for optimum vape. With wattage, the mod itself detects the coil's resistance, and uses that, with the selected wattage, to determine the voltage to be used.
Anyone with aerotank mini experience, who can tell the OP how to go about the dry-burning, with those coils?
Andria
I suspect you're experiencing coil and/or wick gunking; the time frame seems right. It's entirely normal, and normally I would advise a dry-burn and rinse, to clean the coil, and then a fresh wick, but I have no idea how the coils in that tank are put together, if that's even possible with those coils. Maybe someone else with experience with that tank can advise.
Also -- you will either be using wattage, or voltage; whichever one you set last is the one you're actually using. When you set voltage, then it's important to know your coil's resistance, so you can set the voltage accordingly for optimum vape. With wattage, the mod itself detects the coil's resistance, and uses that, with the selected wattage, to determine the voltage to be used.
Anyone with aerotank mini experience, who can tell the OP how to go about the dry-burning, with those coils?
Andria
Juice starts to burn on the coil, causing a build up of gunk that does`nt vaporize as efficiently as it did new, the gunk and sediments act like a heat sink so to say, and eventually it stops vaporizing completely.
Since your coil use`s a silica type of wicking, it is possible that you could do some minor dis-assembly and do whats called a dry burn, this has the affect of burning all the gunk and sediment off the coil and returns it to a good (but not new) working condition. I`m sure you could find instructions for this by searching the forum. Turning it down even just a little bit may also extend the lifetime of the coil. Running clearer juices will also extend the life of a coil.
But in the end, they are a consumable part of the vaporizer and have to be rebuilt or replaced at some point. For the smaller Kanger style coils and using really dark juices (or high VG) that could be every other day for some vapors. For a rebuildable running a clear juice (or straight PG), that may be once a month.
:?)
Since your coil use`s a silica type of wicking, it is possible that you could do some minor dis-assembly and do whats called a dry burn, this has the affect of burning all the gunk and sediment off the coil and returns it to a good (but not new) working condition. I`m sure you could find instructions for this by searching the forum. Turning it down even just a little bit may also extend the lifetime of the coil. Running clearer juices will also extend the life of a coil.
But in the end, they are a consumable part of the vaporizer and have to be rebuilt or replaced at some point. For the smaller Kanger style coils and using really dark juices (or high VG) that could be every other day for some vapors. For a rebuildable running a clear juice (or straight PG), that may be once a month.
:?)
VHRB's advice is excellent except you don't need to search for instructions, he gave you most of them!. Take the coil out, dip it in water, put it back in the base and with the tank off, crank it on high until you don't see vapor. If the coil can be exposed, then pop the top off and burn it like that. When you see the coils glow red, you are done. If you need more water, repeat. Put some juice on it and replace the tank and you are good to go.
You all just blew my mind a little lol. Coming from an electronics background I know you cannot have both adjustable wattage and volts. I never understood no matter how many times it was explained to me but now I understand .
.So I have been using the aero tank mini for about 2 years now. I really like it because it's small enough to put in my pocket, easy to maintain, gives the amount of vapor I like, and it's easy to get parts for (have a vapor store down the street). But I am getting tired of running through coils so fast and feel like it would be better to start building and rebuilding as well as cheaper. Can anyone recomend either an easily rebuildable setup that is small like an ego battery and kanger tank or mods? I also need the ability for a usb pass through for charging with a usb cable for long trips in the car.
Gunk builds up on the coils and wick fills up with gunk and they stop wicking. Go watch some Utube videos on rebuilding those coils. You will be really happy you saved all your old ones. You may not have to buy any more ever again. CHEERS!
A great atty for an ego sized device is a Taifun GS. Fantastic flavor and super easy to build in Spheroid mode.
What mod/battery are you using now? For that USB passthru thing, I'd suggest either an iTaste vv3/vv4 (vv3 very short battery life, only 800mAh -- the newer vv4 can be had in a 1000mAh version, but it's costlier and longer than the vv3), or an iTaste MVP2, both by Innokin. The MVP2 is a box mod, but it's 2600mAh, so it'll last the whole day and then some; it does have the USB passthru feature, and it also has another port, where you could charge something else -- a mobile phone, or even a vv3/vv4!
Can't really advise on small tanks; I like the big honkin kind that I don't have to refill so often.
Andria
Most suppliers/manufacturers advise against dry burning, I tried it with disposable cartomisers and it very much made things worse. My method was to run the coil continuously from the 3.3V output of a PC PSU - it might be slightly lower voltage on paper, but on a dismantled unit it made the coil glow orange/red.
Maybe some day I'll get around to try again with a rebuildable atomiser, but wire and wick aren't expensive and DIY coils are less hard work than trying to burn an old one clean.
I currently is an inokin vv. looks just like this. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...n-itaste-vv-quick-initial-review-imag0311.jpg
I seriously doubt I am going to find a rebuilable atty and mod that small.
I seriously doubt I am going to find a rebuilable atty and mod that small.
Actually you could -- the Igo-S is a 15mm (actually 14.5mm) RDA, but there's no well, so it's essentially useless for anything but taste-testing. The Igo-L is just 17mm, so it would fit alright on a vv3, using a straight cone to cover the ego threads.
Andria
And there's nothing saying you have to use a small topper on an ITaste VV. I call the V4 with the Nautilus in the middle my scepter.
And there's nothing saying you have to use a small topper on an ITaste VV. I call the V4 with the Nautilus in the middle my scepter.
I agree! I often put Kayfuns on my vv3s!
Andria
Well, I decided to give a little on the size so I could have more options down the road. I am retiring my itaste vv and Kanger Aerotank as a backup device. I just picked up a Cloupor mini and a Kanger Subtank Mini to start off with. I like that the claupor is still relitivly small, has a USB charger, and a nice readout. I started off dripping with 810's 5 years ago and slowly worked my way to tanks. My Kanger was the tank that I really felt was dependable so I am happy to give the Subtank a try and since it has some pre built coils as an RBA base I have room to experiment.
I thought my Aerotank was awesome, and I still like it, but the Subtank is superb. I bought the Subtank Mini, and I'm glad I got the smaller 22 in tank. It holds a lot of juice.
It's a little older school, but the vision eternity atty was great (for what it was) and was made exactly for that size class. It can't handle the thick wire most of today's rda's use, but for an ego style device, it was divine!
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