What epoxy/sealant is safe to be used on equipment that will be in contact with e-liquid

[zoiDman]

Thanks zoiDman and UncleJunkle.

Yes I get the point about using a soldering iron to fix plastic. Someone else also suggested, it makes sense.

Here is another tank: https://ibb.co/TrmpnD9

These tanks are not roughly handled. They were used only inside my home. I also use few flavours (Hangsen Arabic and TFA Vanilla), no tank crackers. I don't know if Acetyl Pyrazine cracks tanks, though. I add 1%.

Actually, I had many other tanks, too. IKEN is the only one that cracks. And all my IKENs are cracked.

I will experiment with soldering iron on some spare tanks from Vaporesso NGR-X. Then check on one of IKENs.

BTW - I use a Very Unusual RTA for when I'm kicking back in Bed watching TV or Reading. And that is a SXK Wine RTA that has been Cut-Down so it can take 30mm STM Glass.

I have used it for Years. And it has been knocked over More Times than I can Count. It has also taken that 9.8 Meter per Second Squared trip to the Hardwood Floor maybe 2 Dozen Time. Never a Problem.

Until about about 2 Weeks ago. It fell over and the Bottom Edge of the Glass hit perfectly on a 5" -x- 5" Spanish Tile I use as a coaster on my Night Stand. It left a Perfect Sunburst of Cracks in the Glass.

So sometimes something can be Roughly Handled and it can come thru like a Champ. But other times it hit at just the Right point, and it is All She Wrote.

 

[CountingCrows]

So sometimes something can be Roughly Handled and it can come thru like a Champ. But other times it hit at just the Right point, and it is All She Wrote.

Except that none of these tanks hit anything. They are also not tightly screwed. Let's see what soldering iron will tell.

 

[440BB]

I suspect the cracking across all tanks is a result of stress from manufacturing, fitting it into that shell, combined with repeated normal use. A small amount of pressure that over time led to this, probably inevitable.

I'm basing that on the assumption it's glass, looking at the appearance of the crack.

 

[CountingCrows]

It doesn't matter. I epoxied them all now. I was repairing something else and had leftover epoxy and finished this story. Let's see.

 

[Ed Brown]

The best way to distinguish glass from plastic is to bite it. Not hard enough to break it of course, but there's an unmistakable difference.

 

[smacuser]

I think the tank already bit itself.

 

[madstabber]

Have you tried to find a tank that is of similar design and size? Find some tanks that are the same size and if the glass looks the same you may be able to get new glass. Start with the same brand because they may use the same glass across different product lines. I didn’t read the whole thread so I apologize if this was discussed already. Anyway good luck happy hunting and let us know if the epoxy kills you.

 

[Miles Himan]

Read the entire thread (man I must be bored) Anyway, I agree that it's glass. It was a good read and some good info even if the issue isn't resolved. I do agree with what @madstabber just said (and thermal issues from changing temps) Maybe OP should slowly let the tank warm up before jumping right into high power vaping (not being a smartazz or assuming anything but it might explain part of the problem) Personally, I would just move on and get some other tanks.

 

[CountingCrows]

Anyway good luck happy hunting and let us know if the epoxy kills you.

Epoxy is not going to kill me any more than the Chinese stuff we all have been vaping for years. How do you think canned food, and bazillion of other stuff is attached and lined?

Epoxy is FDA 177.300 certified for F&B and all tanks except 1 has tiny hairline cracks. Surface area contact is very minute.

It will take a while to see if it worked. 7 days is full internal cure, but I will let this cure for 1 month.

 

[Miles Himan]

One other thought... fabricate a metal tube to replace that part. You won't be able to see the juice level but no more crack issues.

 

[CountingCrows]

Maybe OP should slowly let the tank warm up before jumping right into high power vaping (not being a smartazz or assuming anything but it might explain part of the problem) Personally, I would just move on and get some other tanks.

I know what a hot tank is. My IKEN tank nor the mod never ever got hot after so many years of usage. I do not have options to adjust anything but TC temp from 200F-600F. I usually do about 280F with 0.50 ohm coil. I don't know what Kanger is doing, whatever they have been doing with their coils and mods and tanks has been right for me.

1. I never got burnt taste in 4 years of usage with SSOCC SS316L coils. Ever.

2. The tanks have not leaked in 4 years of usage. Ever.

3. Mod is the right shape. Very lightweight, 150g, (Half of Minikin 2 with batteries), does not tip over. And internal battery lasts me 4 whole days on a single charge.

4. Juices taste good (can't say the same of Vaporesso NGR-X or Innokin Kroma-Z).

These are the problems that plagued every vaper. I have what I need, and I don't want to keep spending money and throwing away gear any more. I surely couldn't replace this, if you have something that ticks all boxes for a pleasant vaping experience, I am willing to listen.

 

[CountingCrows]

One other thought... fabricate a metal tube to replace that part. You won't be able to see the juice level but no more crack issues.

It has airflow channels from top. My next step would be to get this tank made for me in quantity, if the fix does not work.

Actually, that sounds like a very good idea, come to think of it. It would be a whole lot easier to make.

 

[Miles Himan]

Hey... I understand that you like this tank and don't want anything else (nothing wrong with that) Actually I use similar coils in my Kanger Subtank mini (and like them) but for some reason I get leaks. I know it's not the coils fault (seems to be a seal issue with the tank) I'm not familiar with your tank but did have an Aspire PockeX that has that design with the glass/metal together. I dropped it, it broke, and I thought "that's really thin glass" (of course it was a small AIO... my first vape device) It's most likely just a design weakness (not something you did) just mentioned the heat/thermal thing anyway. I'm really a restricted DL vaper and tend to use lower watts than most people. I have a NRG tank and love it (using GT core coils... the ones with dual mesh) and even though they can run much higher, I use them at lowest rating of 50 watts. They have great flavor (to me anyway) If those will work in the NRG-X, give them a try. I'm not trying to convince you of giving up on the Tank you like just mentioning that because you might be interested. I also have a Kroma-Z (won it in a contest) Don't care much for the 0.8 coils but love the 0.3 coils at the default 30 watts. I've only been vaping a few years and don't have near the experience of many here so don't claim to be any kind of expert. I like RTAs but understand they can be a pain to mess with. Hope the epoxy works for you.

 

[CountingCrows]

FYI, the glass (or plexiglass?) part has a metal chimney attached to it permanently. So, they use some kind of epoxy for this job. I don't think my filling a hairline crack with a food grade epoxy is any worse than what is already there.

 

[CountingCrows]

Just Looking at the jpg, that Looks like Glass. But the Soldering Iron will Tell the Tale of the Tape for All to See.

Sorry zoiDman, I did not do the soldering iron. Borosilicate can handle high temps, but I still did not want to risk a tank for fear of shattering it.

 

[zoiDman]

Sorry zoiDman, I did not do the soldering iron. Borosilicate can handle high temps, but I still did not want to risk a tank for fear of shattering it.

You know Best.

BTW - What is the Diameter/Length of the "Glass" in that tank? Wouldn't it be Funny if it turn out that it was the Same Size as something else Kanger made that is Easy to Find.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

BTW: Did you ever find a suitable replacement battery for your IKEN mods?

Kanger Iken - Can you help me identify battery?

 

[CountingCrows]

BTW: Did you ever find a suitable replacement battery for your IKEN mods?

Kanger Iken - Can you help me identify battery?

I spent considerable time and energy on this with no success. I have 2 mods that work fine. After 4 years, battery life is not great any more though, but it is okay.

As a refplacement... I could not find any. For outside, I use Innokin Kroma-Z MTL @13W. It is lightweight and stealth.

Oh, you are talking about battery. I left 2 pieces at the electronics shop and they had some chinese batteries but I think it did not work. They did not call me and I was hesitant to use unknown batteries. Come to think of it, I should go get those mods. It has been more than a year.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

You sure have spend a considerable amount of time/effort trying to repair these IKENs!

 

[CountingCrows]

I am okay with it. Better than putting up with the crap I don't like -- which is all of the other vaping gear. If you find one that has 5100 mAH at 175g, let me know. When IKEN mod fails, I will go to Vaporesso Luxe Nano and put up with 2500 mAH battery.