What gauge of wire do you use?... and why?
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Glad to help!
A larger diameter will help with wicking (because it is a bigger hole for the liquid to travel) but there are a few other things you can try out as well.
Make sure that your wick is making contact with the coil. It should be snug but also be able to be pulled out without moving the coil and with little effort. Too little wick can be bad and too much wick can be bad, you gotta find that sweet spot or middle ground.
You also want the wick to just touch the base, not have a massive bundle of wick (it's a juice well, not a wick well lol). Also make sure that you fluff out the wick because twists and kinks in the wick can slow the wicking process.
I use 22AWG single coil in an RDA (7 wraps around 0.4ohm with 2mm diameter), no wicking problems etc.
Sometime I used 2 strands of 25AWG twisted together, gives slightly more contact area (coil-wick) than a single 22AWG coil.
For tanks I use dual coil 25AWG, 6 wraps per coil, 0.3ohm, good at 50-60watts.
Sometime I used 2 strands of 25AWG twisted together, gives slightly more contact area (coil-wick) than a single 22AWG coil.
For tanks I use dual coil 25AWG, 6 wraps per coil, 0.3ohm, good at 50-60watts.
You want density...
Tripple Parallel 30 gauge, 2.5mm ID, 12 wrap. Two of them come out to 0.4 ohm.
At 35W I've seen cloud chasers choke. Then the
face that followed because their mind could not comprehend the thermodynamics involved.
The size (ID and width) of a coil is determined by the size of the air port pointing at it. For a long narrow port like in the Velocity you want a long narrow coil. If the air port is 4mm round hole you can build a 3.5mm ID x 4mm wide coil. You don't want to make your coil so large that the airflow won't wrap around to the back of the coil or so wide that the ends are outside of the airstream.
Wow. That's a lot of coil. I think I'm gonna have to try that. Even if just to say I did.You want density...
Tripple Parallel 30 gauge, 2.5mm ID, 12 wrap. Two of them come out to 0.4 ohm. View attachment 501429
At 35W I've seen cloud chasers choke. Then the
End of line.
I designed this last night to be a bit easier to build
Dual parellel 30 gauge, 14/13 wrap, 2.4mm ID.
Remember to twist the legs, it holds the parellel wraps aligned.
Keep in mind we're not using hollow wires. Any extra surface area gained from thicker wire - costs having to heat up more mass. It's what diminishing returns are made of.
Most often I use 28 awg single coils for roughly 0.6-0.8 ohm. This is on mesh, mind you. I find thinner wire too much of an annoyance to work with on mesh - given the initial setup/hotspot fixing. So I choose wire thickness by other criteria than those who use other materials.
Most often I use 28 awg single coils for roughly 0.6-0.8 ohm. This is on mesh, mind you. I find thinner wire too much of an annoyance to work with on mesh - given the initial setup/hotspot fixing. So I choose wire thickness by other criteria than those who use other materials.
You actually loose surface contact area with thicker wire. I recommend working with the smallest wire that is usable.
This is a scale drawing of 22 gauge and 28 guage covering the same width.
The 28 gauge wire has 40% more contact area and much more venting.
Huh. Well ain't that something. I think this was the nail in the coffin for 22 gauge wire as far as I'm concerned. I think I'm going to go back to something smaller. I really haven't been that happy with the 22 gauge anyway.
End of line.
Woot a SS mesh user we are a small group lol..
Boden instead of the twisted legs make yourself, if you do not have, a coil welder and sting that coil with a 26ga non resistance wire. You can use pure nickle but nichrome or kanthal will work great as a non resistance wire as long as its at least 2 gauges lower.
I make evods/cartomizers/ce4's for my son and sting 30ga with either 26ga kanthal or 28ga as NR wires. I always developed a hot leg eventually with twisted legs IME.. It is really kewl you make the coil put the coil crimped in the springloaded clips and sting both parallel legs at same time to the one wire. The old method joining two str8 pieces then coiling works but sometimes the wire breaks off its weld when wrapping, using the premade whole coil in the jaws works better best I dun kno why but it werks great, never breaks off..
Really cool almost free project --it is free if you have the parts at home or a friendly store..
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,733.0.html?PHPSESSID=d6def17b37348b475b1b4041f5e50788
Boden instead of the twisted legs make yourself, if you do not have, a coil welder and sting that coil with a 26ga non resistance wire. You can use pure nickle but nichrome or kanthal will work great as a non resistance wire as long as its at least 2 gauges lower.
I make evods/cartomizers/ce4's for my son and sting 30ga with either 26ga kanthal or 28ga as NR wires. I always developed a hot leg eventually with twisted legs IME.. It is really kewl you make the coil put the coil crimped in the springloaded clips and sting both parallel legs at same time to the one wire. The old method joining two str8 pieces then coiling works but sometimes the wire breaks off its weld when wrapping, using the premade whole coil in the jaws works better best I dun kno why but it werks great, never breaks off..
Really cool almost free project --it is free if you have the parts at home or a friendly store..
http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php/topic,733.0.html?PHPSESSID=d6def17b37348b475b1b4041f5e50788
just keep that mtl habit;
too many people have been taking big lung hit all of a sudden and be all alarmed when the coil happens to be dry; mtl is a good way to make sure your wick is wet before you *deliberately* make a lung inhale.
(like taking a sip before taking a drink)
I like 26 gauge. It's easy to coil and offers lot's of coiling options.
I like 22g 5 wraps around a Q-Tip. Comes out to .18-.2 ohms, gives me good flavor and great vapor, doesn't make my attys too hot and doesn't take up an absurd amount of space
I try to keep things as simple as possible. K.I.S.S. (Keep it simple, stupid!)
I don't particularly like making coils. I do it because I got tired of the inconsistancy of pre-made coils and how much longer homemade coils can last, which makes them more economical, too. I don't get a lot of satisfaction from making exotic coil builds so why bother with them? (I've worked in a vape shop and tried many exotic builds by others. I can't tell a difference. Again, my motto remains K.I.S.S.).
I use 28 gauge kanthal. 3 mm inner diameter because its easier to wick than a smaller diameter. Dual 1.2 single coils (spaced or closed; doesn't matter to me) for a total of 0.6 ohm resistance.
This is my sweet spot setup. It provides excellent flavor and vapor production for my expectations. I rewick my Rayon about every 3 - 4 days; at which time I dry burn the coils. Current coils are a few weeks old; I've had them last up to 8 months before.
I don't particularly like making coils. I do it because I got tired of the inconsistancy of pre-made coils and how much longer homemade coils can last, which makes them more economical, too. I don't get a lot of satisfaction from making exotic coil builds so why bother with them? (I've worked in a vape shop and tried many exotic builds by others. I can't tell a difference. Again, my motto remains K.I.S.S.).
I use 28 gauge kanthal. 3 mm inner diameter because its easier to wick than a smaller diameter. Dual 1.2 single coils (spaced or closed; doesn't matter to me) for a total of 0.6 ohm resistance.
This is my sweet spot setup. It provides excellent flavor and vapor production for my expectations. I rewick my Rayon about every 3 - 4 days; at which time I dry burn the coils. Current coils are a few weeks old; I've had them last up to 8 months before.
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26 or 28 gauge kanthol, because its versatile and cost effective. easy to twist of you want. recently got a roll of Clapton wire which was amazing at first but for some reason it likes to shoot seering hot droplets of juice up through my mouth piece... still working on that one haha
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