What Have I Done?

[WillieB69]

So I'm on a Facebook page for local vapers to swap and sell vaping gear and today I saw this Apollo mod and Geyser atomizer listed for $30, used. I'm guessing they are clones because the guy selling it said he paid around $80 for the setup and a real Geyser runs between $60-$70 from what I've seen. The atomizer went through a thorough cleaning and will need to be rebuilt. In the meantime, I'm using my Kanger Subtank Mini with a .5 ohm coil on the mod and it really chucks some clouds.

I know jack about mech mods and quad coils but it looks like I'm going to be learning now. For $30, I couldn't pass it up and I love the retro look of it.

 

[wheelie]

Always good to have a few Mechanical mods and some rebuildable tanks. Never know what can happen down the road with regulation. Never really stopped using mine till a month ago because I bought a used eVic VT and a Pegasus kit so I could learn and build and play around with temperature Control. Cheers!

 

[Archer74]

2.5mm ID fits... 3mm is too big

 

[WillieB69]

2.5mm ID fits... 3mm is too big

Good to know.
I really need to get a coil wrapper doohickey. I suck wrapping them on screwdrivers.

 

[sig-cmt]

In the meantime, I'm using my Kanger Subtank Mini with a .5 ohm coil on the mod...

Hold up. You are using a Subtank Mini (STM) on a direct-to-battery (DTB) mod? I just checked my two STMs and the non-adjustable positive posts at the 510 protrude 0.25mm at maximum. Post a shot of your 510 positive. Manufacturing variances and differences between production runs may result in your positive post protruding greater than 0.25mm. Until then, err on the side of caution and take the STM off ASAP. For now, until a shot is posted, do not use your STM on a DTB mod (or any unregulated mech mod for that matter) unless you want to run the high risk of having your cells vent and possibly explode. Consider this fair warning!

 

[roxynoodle]

Hold up. You are using a Subtank Mini (STM) on a direct-to-battery (DTB) mod? I just checked my two STMs and the non-adjustable positive posts at the 510 protrude 0.25mm at maximum. Post a shot of your 510 positive. Manufacturing variances and differences bwtween production runs may result in your positive post protruding greater than 0.25mm. Until then, err on the side of caution and take the STM off ASAP. For now, until a shot is posted, do not use your STM on a DTB mod (or any unregulated mech mod for that matter) unless you want to run the high risk of having your cells vent and possibly explode. Consider this fair warning!

I was about to post the same thing! Yes, take the Subtank off that mech. You could have a hard short and an explosion. Please don't use clearos on that type of mod. Only use attys with a positive pin that protrudes at least a mm.

 

[WharfRat1976]

I was about to post the same thing! Yes, take the Subtank off that mech. You could have a hard short and an explosion. Please don't use clearos on that type of mod. Only use attys with a positive pin that protrudes at least a mm.

YES. The Apollo is a hybrid mod. It has no 510 pin so your 510 pin from your atty directly contacts your battery top. I hope you are an advanced user.

 

[Racehorse]

I hope the OP has come back, or will, to read these responses!

 

[WillieB69]

Hold up. You are using a Subtank Mini (STM) on a direct-to-battery (DTB) mod? I just checked my two STMs and the non-adjustable positive posts at the 510 protrude 0.25mm at maximum. Post a shot of your 510 positive. Manufacturing variances and differences between production runs may result in your positive post protruding greater than 0.25mm. Until then, err on the side of caution and take the STM off ASAP. For now, until a shot is posted, do not use your STM on a DTB mod (or any unregulated mech mod for that matter) unless you want to run the high risk of having your cells vent and possibly explode. Consider this fair warning!

I was about to post the same thing! Yes, take the Subtank off that mech. You could have a hard short and an explosion. Please don't use clearos on that type of mod. Only use attys with a positive pin that protrudes at least a mm.

I'm aware that it's a direct to battery contact. I was not aware center pin length was an issue. The pin was flush on the Geyser when I got it as well. I used the Subtank on it most of last night without an issue but if there's a danger of a venting battery, I won't do it again. In the meantime, it looks like I have some work to do on this Geyser as well.

 

[WillieB69]

............ The Geyser is toast. After researching this thing and tearing it apart piece by piece, the center pin has been rammed and stripped the Delrin insulator, it's missing the center delrin part that goes between the posts inside the atomizer and there is a piece broken off that holds the atomizer stable on the airflow. And this is AFTER I soaked it for a half an hour to get all the gunk out of it so I could take it apart. How the hell he kept from blowing himself up with it in this condition is beyond me.

Maybe I can just sell the mod in the classifieds for a few bucks and recoup some of the loss on this one.
Last time I buy used atomizers.

 

[roxynoodle]

Well, hold on, because you might be able to fix it. You can buy delrin blanks from Fatdaddy. I've made a few insulators.

The other part with the afc I would need to see as I'm not picturing it.

However, if that pin and insulator can get pushed up, this isn't the mod you want to use it on. But, if you like the mod, learn about safe use and you can get an appropriate atty for it.

 

[WillieB69]

The other part with the afc I would need to see as I'm not picturing it.

I'll take a pic and post it either this afternoon or tonight. It's basically two prongs on either side that fit beside two flat areas of the atty connector. One is snapped off and everything wiggles like crazy.

 

[WillieB69]

OK.

Here's a pic inside the airflow where the prong is busted out, which makes everything lose and wiggly unless the center pin is screwed all the way into the bottom with no protrusion.

 

[Kprthevapr]

Will work on a hybrid

Won't work on a hybrid

 

[Kprthevapr]

OK.

Here's a pic inside the airflow where the prong is busted out, which makes everything lose and wiggly unless the center pin is screwed all the way into the bottom with no protrusion.

I'd toss it and grab something that will serve ya better.

RDA Vape|RDA Atomizer|Best Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer USA Sale
Special Deals Archives - Page 2 of 5 - 88eVape

 

[WillieB69]

so are there any single coil tanks/attys out there that will work with this thing? I really didn't want to start diving into dual and quads anyway. It's what he had on it so I thought I would learn. Since it's busted, I'd like to stick with singles if they're out there.

For that matter, I'm not opposed to ditching the whole hybrid thing and finding a mech that my Kanger tanks will work with safely.

 

[Kprthevapr]

To use tanks, you'll need to find a mod with an adjustable center pin in the top cap.

Like this one. I don't like the design if the button on this mod. I'm using this pic for top cap reference.
I would recommend a King
Like this one

My hubby has a half dozen or so of these and swears by them. The copper button is off of his copper King lol.
King V2 Style Mechanical MOD - 88eVape

 

[WillieB69]

To use tanks, you'll need to find a mod with an adjustable center pin in the top cap.
My hubby has a half dozen or so of these and swears by them. The copper button is off of his copper King lol.
King V2 Style Mechanical MOD - 88eVape

Not a bad price either.
I'll have to look into getting one of those from my next check.
In the meantime, I think I'm gonna unload the Apollo. The mod itself is nice enough but it appears hybrids are more than I want to dig into.

 

[sig-cmt]

To use a STM on a mech, not only do you need a top cap with an adjustable firing pin, you also need to ensure that the top cap does not allow enough lateral play with the pin to make accidental contact with the threads of the 510 and that the pin is narrower than the 510 positive.

 

[WillieB69]

To use a STM on a mech, not only do you need a top cap with an adjustable firing pin, you also need to ensure that the top cap does not allow enough lateral play with the pin to make accidental contact with the threads of the 510 and that the pin is narrower than the 510 positive.

*runs away screaming*
I'd be pulling my hair out as well.... if I had any.