Hi, my name is Paul. I've had the SMPL Mechanical Mod and the Velocity rda for a while. But I haven't been able to pin-point a good build and resistance. I have a Samsung 25R. The best I've been able to do was a 4 wrap 22g kanthal around a 3mm post. it came out to .18. However, I purchased a Rogue Mechanical Mod and a Goon rda. I love using claptons but I'm tired of running them on a regulated device. I've looked into Ohm's Law and everything so I feel confident about Mech Mod safety. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good clapton build for a Mech Mod. Thank you for reading.
What is the best resistance for a Mechanical Mod?
- Thread starter Paul Bullias
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Hi and welcome,
IMO, you need thinner wire.
http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp
"What gets us into trouble is not what we don't know it's what we know for sure that just ain't so." MT
Be safer
I
IMO, you need thinner wire.
http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp
"What gets us into trouble is not what we don't know it's what we know for sure that just ain't so." MT
Be safer
I
Clapton heats and cools more slowly than straight wire. As a result they behave somewhat oddly in single battery mechs. One way to mitigate it is to use the smallest wrap wire you can find. Had good luck with 2x26ga/40ga. It's a pain to wrap though. One coil will use like 3-4 feet of 40ga wire and be quite monotonous to wrap.
For me I like a single 316L 28ga, .7 2.5mm, 8 wrap. Has great flavor and enough vapor for me. Also has a plus with 20700 batteries the charge last all day.
You realize you're running a 0.18 ohm coil drawing 23A with a 20A CDR battery, right?
A good resistance is a safe resistance which means that your battery has to be sufficient for your build. I don't think it is, either. I'd try a higher resistance for safety's sake, that is a pretty low ohm coil. I'm not a mech user, but I'd find it concerning. 
The best resistance for a mech mod is one that won't blow up your mod. There are lots of threads regarding ohm's law, calculating resistance safely, battery safety and etc., so I won't try to summarize them all here, but you might want to check out the mech mod forum to get more tips on how to accomplish what you want more safely.
Good luck,
Anna
The best resistance for a mech mod is one that won't blow up your mod. There are lots of threads regarding ohm's law, calculating resistance safely, battery safety and etc., so I won't try to summarize them all here, but you might want to check out the mech mod forum to get more tips on how to accomplish what you want more safely.Good luck,
Anna
With 25R I like to stay above .4 for plenty of head room.
This applies to regulated mods, but it is very well articulated out when using a mech, the more wire mass you have in the coil/coils you either need more power adjusted (regulated) or in the case of a mech where ramp up time is slower the more mass you have, you have to trim down the amount of wire mass you have. My experience, and IMO, when you move past 26 even 24awg wire your ramp up time tanks, and takes forever as all you have to play with is 4.2v maximum at a fresh charge. For safety sake and for better pulse (or burst) ramp up, Samsung 25R's are great batteries but you'd be better served using Sony VTC5A 2500mah (25amp with a better burst than the 25R) and quite frankly the best batteries would be the LG HB2, HB4, or HB6 1500mah True 30amps when using a mech, yes you lose Mah (runtime) but you gain more CDR for safety. Again for safety sake with a mech, on a single battery mech the lowest build you should have is a 0.2 to 0.25ohm absolute lowest with a 25 or 30amp battery, those 25R's the lowest suggested build should be about 0.3ohm absolute lowest, with a 0.18ohm even lower you are literally cooking those 25R's to death (heat is the greatest of enemies with Li-Ion batteries) as you stress them (reach maximum CDR) they heat up internally, this changes their internal chemistry (like boiling a stew), that change decreases their longevity, their Mah, and their C or Current Ratings, Mah combined with the C rating determines Maximum CDR, decrease either you lose Max CDR over time.
30days of maximum stress on a 25R you've literally cooked it to death, potentially making it not a 20amp CDR battery but a 10amp CDR battery with such abuse in 30 to 90 days, this makes the battery unstable under stress and a literal danger, never ask more the 50% max CDR of a battery in a mech continually, thus you should be using no more than 10amps from your 25R's
So 10amps at 4.2v Maximum, we get 0.42ohms outputing 42watts
To go lower on a mech you'd need a parallel battery box mech mod, this would require marrying batteries in sets, never mix matching them to keep the batteries equal or as close to equal to each other, with that setup with say 4 Samsung 25R's marked in Set 1 (Batteries 1A and 1B) and Set 2 (Batteries 2A and 2B), being 20amp batteries, in parallel your maximum CDR would be around 30amps combined safely, though theoretically it could be 40amps (2 X 20amps), with this setup your lowest build would be around 0.14ohms absolute lowest.
As it stands now, with your current equipment and batteries, the best build would be about a 0.25ohm 26awg (either twisted pair or parallel (side by side)), this will have quicker ramp up time, give you plenty of surface area, great flavor and vapor production without taxing your batteries heavily. Claptons, you'd be best to go a single 26 or 24awg core with 32, 34, 36, 38, or 40awg wrap wire, on a mech completely forget about multi-core fused, stapled, staggered, alien, or any other super exotic build, you just do not have the power to push them on a mech as these literally kill battery efficiency on a mech, thus they are best run on a regulated. You also try a staggered parallel or twisted (strand of 24awg with a strand of 26awg) the 26awg will heat up faster than the 24awg being thinner than 24awg and help heat up the 24awg during ramp up. 22 and 20awg wire you will be down to just basic standard coils as they have way to much wire mass to effectively ramp up fast enough.
With a mech your builds really need to be K.I.S.S. (Keep It as Simple as Possible Stupid)
Hi and welcome.
IMHO, .18Ω is far too low to build on a one-battery tube mod with a 25R battery. At full charge that's drawing 23+ amps. You're begging for a vent. Keep that thing above .4-.5Ω for safety's sake.
I'm guessing you're a cloud chucker, if you find .18 not quite good enough. (A different matter if you find it too hot or something.) If so, you need a multi-battery mech to build so low.
You probably aren't ever going to get a real satisfying vape out of a (one battery tube) mech with Clapton wires. That's for competition, or the higher voltages available in a series or regulated mod. The ramp time is just too long for general vaping; it takes forever to heat that much wire to vapor temp. That's why competitors "purge" the mod by blowing into it before they take a hit. They don't do it to look cool, they do it to see when their coil is hot enough to make vapor. It works, but it's more like work than a smooth and enjoyable vape. If that's really where you want to be, fine: get some LG HB6 batteries. Get a lot of them and a couple 4-bay chargers. To maintain maximum cloud, you'll want to swap for a fresh battery every three or four hits, just like the competitors do. The vape falls off a lot with even .2 or .3 V drop.
Try some 28ga SS3116 wire. Just use regular round wire, and build in the .5ish range. That's the sweet spot for me for one battery tubes.
IMHO, .18Ω is far too low to build on a one-battery tube mod with a 25R battery. At full charge that's drawing 23+ amps. You're begging for a vent. Keep that thing above .4-.5Ω for safety's sake.I'm guessing you're a cloud chucker, if you find .18 not quite good enough. (A different matter if you find it too hot or something.) If so, you need a multi-battery mech to build so low.
You probably aren't ever going to get a real satisfying vape out of a (one battery tube) mech with Clapton wires. That's for competition, or the higher voltages available in a series or regulated mod. The ramp time is just too long for general vaping; it takes forever to heat that much wire to vapor temp. That's why competitors "purge" the mod by blowing into it before they take a hit. They don't do it to look cool, they do it to see when their coil is hot enough to make vapor. It works, but it's more like work than a smooth and enjoyable vape. If that's really where you want to be, fine: get some LG HB6 batteries. Get a lot of them and a couple 4-bay chargers. To maintain maximum cloud, you'll want to swap for a fresh battery every three or four hits, just like the competitors do. The vape falls off a lot with even .2 or .3 V drop.
Try some 28ga SS3116 wire. Just use regular round wire, and build in the .5ish range. That's the sweet spot for me for one battery tubes.
22G wire has a very high mass in relation to it's surface area. Trying to get wire that fat to light up using a single 4.2v cell is impracticable, inefficient and will have very long ramp up/down times.
Based on your battery you could try dual coil 26G 316 SS at 2.5 mm internal diameter coming out to 0.2 ohms and 21 amps. This will be much more responsive and efficient with a greater surface area.
You might also consider using the Samsung 30Q or the LG HG2 as these are both good quality 20 amp cells but a 3000 mAh capacity rather than the 25Rs 2500 mAh.
If you really want to belt some clouds then a 100 watt regulated device or a dual battery mechanical box is the way to go rather than a single battery tube mech.
Based on your battery you could try dual coil 26G 316 SS at 2.5 mm internal diameter coming out to 0.2 ohms and 21 amps. This will be much more responsive and efficient with a greater surface area.
You might also consider using the Samsung 30Q or the LG HG2 as these are both good quality 20 amp cells but a 3000 mAh capacity rather than the 25Rs 2500 mAh.
If you really want to belt some clouds then a 100 watt regulated device or a dual battery mechanical box is the way to go rather than a single battery tube mech.
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